Valve Shims Woes

[geniusloerts]

So got the cams in and now, being the by the book guy, i am trying to even out the clearance across the board. I maybe im just having a huge brain fart....but I cant figure out what sizes i need to switch to. here are my shim sizes and the clearances I took.

Intale I1:280 and .152 E1:280 and .178
I2:285 and .127 E2:285 and .13
I3:275 and .203 E3:280 and .229
I4:290 and .152 E4:280 and .279


I will take any help I can get. Plus is the valve shim tool readly available? or do they not sell them anymore?

Thanks

[81xsproject]

A while back we came up with a Shim Calculator .

[geniusloerts]

sweet, I'll put these to good use.

[prometheus578]

"METRICS!"

Everyone knows it's a failed system!
Calculate this... move the decimal point for that!
Cut me some slack.
You people need to use the "Standard" system, like those Japanese engineers intended.
"Why?", you ask.
'Cause I said so... and 'cause it's easier to do valve adjustments. One deviation in shim size (0.05mm) is exactly .002in.
So... if one has a clearance of .004 and wants .006, you just go down one shim size, say from 2.50 to 2.45. Doesn't get any easier.
No charts, no silly graphs... plug and play.

Ok.. you have:

Tolerances are INtake: .006-.008 EXhaust: .008-.010

#1 int=.006(OK) #1Ex=.007 (Shim 2.80, put in 2.75=.009

#2 int=.005(shim2.85 put in 2.80=.007)
#2Ex=.005 (shim 2.85 put in 2.75=.009)

#3 good both valves.

#4 IN (ok) Ex .011 (shim 2.80 put in 2.85=.009)

You can use one of the 2.80 old exhaust shims for the 2.80 needed for #2 intake. Use the old ex 2.85 for the other ex needing 2.85.
So, you need 2ea 2.75 shims, (and can reuse the 2.80 and 2.85)

a lot easier using standard measurements. One shim size .05mm equals .002in.

81 XSProject... I don't mean to cause a dispute concerning charts, etc. I had started this reply three hours ago, but got called away before I could finish and post it.
Geniusloerts, double check my numbers as I'm now a bit tired... you know how lazy I get at times.
Of course, everything always depends on how you measured in the first place. Was it a tight .178mm, a medium .178mm or a loose .178mm.
Just another way of doing the same thing, that's all, but you never have to do the math.
Be alot easier and quicker to just loosen the caps on the exhaust cam and lift it up as you have three valves to adjust there.
Get some fingernail polish and mark the chain to the gear so you'll know if the chain jumps.
Loosen the cam chain tensioner so you'll have the slack to shift the cam. Have the crank wheel at the "C" position to have the least stress on the cam and the caps.

[81xsproject]

Well, no matter how you determine the shims you need, Prom is definitely right about changing the shims. Pulling the cam is way easier than using a tool.

[trbig]

"METRICS!"

Everyone knows it's a failed system!

Except for everywhere else in the whole world.

Converting metric to standard to figure out which metric shim to use... I'm glad it's easy enough for some, but confusing as hell to me. There's enough numbers to have to mess with without throwing another set in there for me.


The method the book uses it pretty simple if you look at it.




On the left side of the page, you figure out what the clearance you measured falls between. Follow that row straight over... Then look at what shim number you had installed. Find that number on the top row and follow it straight down until the two meet in a box. Just like finding the mileage on a map, you just find where the two things meet and that's the new shim you need. So looking at the pic, if you had a measured clearance of .18mm, it falls between the .16~.20 range. Say you had a 265 shim installed. Follow the rows across and down and you see that the new shim should be a 260.

***This picture is from the XJ book, so don't go by the clearances noted here.

I do agree with the cam removal versus the tool though.


Tod

[prometheus578]

"My minor point is, TRBIG..."

In the Clymer Version of the bible, on page VII(Quick reference Data) it give valve specs in both scales. You will also find clearance numbers in both scales on page 2-4 of the official Yamaha version.
I just find it easier to do, (no book, no chart) to start off using standard. (Feeler gauges usually come with both scales printed on them.)
Shims are graduated in increments of .05mm,(2.45, 2,50,2.55, 2.60, etc) which means that there's a different of .002 in between each size.
So... if the measured clearance is .004in and I want .006in, I just grab a shim that's the next size smaller, say from 2.80 down to 2.75.

Yes, I do realize that most people only mess with their valves once in a blue moon and using the metric chart may give them a certain piece of mind. Nothing wrong with that. But once you have a firm grasp of what's involved(thinner shim means more clearance) this way may prove simpler.
Just another option.
(I've hated the metric system since the 6th grade)

[trbig]

Understood.... More than one way to skin a cat. (Has anyopne actually done that?!?) lol The guy that posted all the videos of shooting jackrabbits is gone, right?



Tod

[cloerts]

skinning a cat

I've skinned two cats, both in high school biology classes. It was actually easier than you might think.

[geniusloerts]

while I was in the jungle in Brazil cats were a delicasy there are many ways to skin a cat, just depends on what your gonna do with it.....

[geniusloerts]

valve shims

Does anyine have 2 shims that are 275's?

Send me a message.

Thanks

Geniusloerts