Just a "make me fool good" answer

[madmax-im]

Originally posted by Crazcnuk
ALL motor oils modify friction, that is what they do.

Wet clutches are designed to work in motor oil. Synthetic doesn't make any difference.

What has happened to people, is that they have a borderline clutch to start with, put in a better type of oil and the clutch started slip, big surprise.

The debate comes with oil additives, like moly-slip, or other such things.

Not sure if applicable to Yamahas but on my ST1100 I was told when i bought it from the previous owner that synthetic oil with no-moly is what I must use or it will make the clutch slip and has nothing to do with the clutch being "borderline".The service mgr at the local honda stealership reiterated the same....no energy conserving oils because they contain Moly....she must be bad...

[TopCatGr58]

Hey CrazCnuk,

Well, I had a 69 firebird in the mid/late 70's(my ignorant youth), and it had a modest leak, and burned a little oil, and I wanted to rebuild and bore it out anyways, so after a while I stopped bothering changing it, just topped it off every week or so, from 65K miles to 95K miles when I finally broke the engine down to rebuild it. I had the crank mic'd and it didn't need any oversized bearings or regrinding!!

However, it was a little oversquare 350 V-8, max 4.5k rpm IIRC, water cooled, so I don't think there was as much heat and friction abuse compared to our higher revving air cooled machines!

The "Dirt" or contaminants are of course the remnants of incomplete combustion slipping past the rings, as well as the breaking down of the polymers or molecules of the oil itself. I change the oil/filters in my autos every 5K, not the too frequent 3K miles the manuals propaganda states IF it's used under what they call severe use: towing, very dirty/dusty roads, constant stop and go traffic, etc., otherwise they actually allow 7K miles between recommended intervals for mild use, mostly highway.

And it's these contaminants that get into the oils that are not well filtered that cause the oils to get dirty, black, and so that's why I dont' bother with SYNTH's, I'm not able to get the miles between changes I would feel comfortable with due to the dirt getting into the oil. It's much cheaper just to use Dino and change it at 5K miles! YMMV!
T.C.

[DVigue]

See TC, religon or politics. And all I needed was a pat on the head.

[prometheus578]

"You've now changed the tone of things."

A pat on the head is no longer appropriate.

For Religious Advice: I now give you a "laying on of hands."

For Political Advice: I now give you a slap upside the head.

Anything else I can do for you, (other than just shutting up) please let me know.

[Crazcnuk]

In the owners manual for the 85-86 Shadow 1100 it calls for oil changes, with conventional oil, every 12,000kms, or about 7500miles.

The carbon that makes it's way past the rings is very small, otherwise rings would not last very long.

In the 'old' days, oil filters were a roll of toilet paper in a can, if the car or bike had one at all, and pcv hoses just hung down the side of the engine, basically open to atmosphere. In those days a lot of external sand and grit could get into the engines, and yet they weren't too worried about filters.

If you really want low friction, ie most HP and fuel mileage, you want to use a blend of 75-80% conventional motor oil, 20-25% synthetic.

This comes from hundreds of hours of dyno testing on several classes of drag car. It has to do with the shape of the molecules and how they fit together under load conditons.