Here we go again

[gman]

Hi folks,
i have just swapped my old uk engine with one that i assume comes from the states (no oil cooler) when i tried to run her, nothing, got fuel (cover the carb mouth and a wash of fuel comes out) and have spark but she will not fire. is there something i am missing? Both engines are from a XS1100 E, i swapped the pick ups as the ones that came with the engine were damaged. It appears as if no fuel is getting into the valves as the plugs are dry after a long time of cranking?
Any ideas

Gary

[Erik the Red]

Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme...

...that which you desire... is compression. That's the third component of getting her to start up. I'd say to check compression, too.

I'll hazzard a guess as to why you have dry plugs, and those who actually know can either confirm or deny...
Timing might be off. Since it's vacuum that sucks the gas into the chamber, if the valve on the exhaust side is slightly open, it might be sucking air from the pipes instead of the carbs.

Or there isn't vacuum due to something about how you swapped pickups, maybe?

Remember: these are just a guesses, so wait for the smarter people to chime in.

[DiverRay]

Gary,
Check with a compression tester if you have one. If not, try leaving ONE plug out at a time, and see how hard a "puff" you get from the plug hole when cranking the engine.
If the engine sat for a while BEFORE you put it in, I would put a little ATF into each plug hole, and let the engine sit for a day. That should help loosen up any rings that may be stuck. I would also check the valve movement with the cover off, just to make sure everything looks correct.
Final test is VERIFY your TDC for #1 is correct. It's easy to put things in "out of phase", and then it won't work. I would also check to see that the proper coils are fired at the proper time, and you have the ballast resister connected.

[mro]

Double check the basics, just to be sure...

i swapped the pick ups

Can be installed wrong.
Compression?
Carb vents ok?
Fuel tap on prime?


mro

[skids]

Switch the petcocks to prime. Put it on the centerstand to level the fuel. Tap on the carb bowls to dislodge the feul needles in case they are stuck. Pull the choke lever out all the way. Crank it with no throttle twisting.

[gman]

ho skids,
will give that a go. one thing! when i am crnking the engine, there does not appear to be very much pressure coming out of the exhaust , is that right? also there is pressure coming out of the crank breather??

gary

[prometheus578]

"I agree with everyone else"

A compression check in mandatory first.
Standard is 142 lbs.
Also agree that your spark might be wrong.(wrong cylinders at the wrong time.(Or is that wrong cylinders at the right time)
Either way... you can swap the wires going to the coils to get them to fire 180 degree out. I've seen that mistake before.
Re charge the battery and start again. A slow cranker often will have a hard time starting, especially if the engine has sat for a ling while and the rings and such are gummed up, etc.
Again, a compression test will tell alot.
Not feeling a lot of pressure from the exhaust isn't really a clue during cranking. You're not really moving a high volume of air at any significant speed.
The crankcase breather will pulse as the pistons move downward displacing crank case air. A lot of air means bad rings, a hole in a piston or a head/head gasket issue. Again, a compression check will rule this out.

[gman]

still crnking her over, it appears as if it does a pathitic pop pop sound every now and again. i put mt comppression meter on but got no reading on all four cylinders so i guess the meter is knackered!.
so frustrating

Gary

[gman]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by DiverRay
I would put a little ATF into each plug hole, and let the engine sit for a day.




What is ATF?

[randy]

Automatic
Transmission
Fluid

Don't know what you guys call it accross the pond.

[gman]

and another thing !!
it seems to be back firing through the air box?? is that normal.

[DiverRay]

If it's back firing, you probably have the spark 180 out. Try swapping the coil wires as PROM said. The engine WILL be low on compression until you get it running and put about 500 miles on it. That is normal with an engine that has not been used in a while.
I would have a charger on the battery as you crank the engine over, as well. that will insure you have the voltage needed to fire the plugs. You DID gap the pickup coils when you changed them?? I set mine a little closer than factory, so it will fire easier.

[mro]

is that normal

NO...
Can be different reasons tho with a waste spark system.
Should you have major compression problems then that needs to be addressed first.
A note about the compresson test, need to twist the throtel wide open so the butter flies are open to test.


mro

[prometheus578]

"Meters just don't knacker..."

Disconnect the ignition wire from your car, pull one of the spark plugs and screw the compression checker into the hole. Simple test will tell you if your compression checker is knackered.
If the compression test with the car proves that the tester is good, then we have other problems.
Have you checked the valve clearances yet? (You swapped an engine... I know you checked the valve clearances...)

No compression...?
You'll either find valves with no clearance, meaning that they are being held open by the cam...
Or valves with way TOO much clearance... meaning they're being held open by bent valve stems.

[gman]

Hi chaps,
i cannot see how the ignition is 180 out as i put the new pick ups on like for like, does any one know which colour wire attached to the pick up go at the top?

I will buy a new comp tester tomorrow just to be safe. The fact that fuel spills out when i cover the carb bell mouth, does that mean the carbs are working?

also, when the bike does is silly little fire, the rubber boot gets really warm !!! worrying !!

All i want is a bike for summer !!!!!!!!