aftermarket/alternative front master cylinder

[cloerts]

Does anyone have a suggestion for a quick (read cheap) replacement of the front master cylinder? The easier the better, also I wouldn't mind something a little more sporty. Better response off a newer sport bike would be ideal.

[DiverRay]

I'm using one from bikebandit, IIRC. It has the all black resivoir, and is designed for the dual front disk. The number ONE way to improve your brakes is replace the rubber brake lines with the stainless steel braid lines. I can now stop easily with one finger, and I did a front stoppy ONCE when I first put them on! I didn't want to, just had someone pull a left in front of me, and HAD to stop NOW!

[cloerts]

I think SS lines are next on the list.

[snowdog51]

m/c

i use zx900 kawi two fingers is all you need to brake.
as ever bill

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Cloerts,

There are several sources for them, Partsnmore.com, MikesXS.com, just make sure you pick the one with the 16mm bore not the 13mm one. The larger bore is for the dual caliper systems. About $80.00 plus S&H...or even free S&H since it's over $50.00 from MikesXS IIRC!

But, yeah, SS lines are a must!
T.C.

[Da-Bubble]

Ok I'm jumping in here....I am using the new Dual Disc M/C from Parts'nMore. We had trouble bleeding it (took forever). It is a little better now after riding and bleeding again, but it's still really soft when braking. I want to go with stainless brake lines. Where do I get them and do they have to be custom made?

[TopCatGr58]

Da-Bubble,

There are many sources. I went with HELUSA.com. They list Kits for the XS11, but you can also have them specially made at no extra cost, and can actually save yourself some $$ if you use only 2 lines for the front instead of 3, cause they only charge for each line no matter how long. And they have lots of custom colors as well as SS, clear cover, or black, or even RED if you want an accent!

Doing a search for stainless steel lines will reveal many threads. Also I think folks posted in the LINKs section about some as well.

Folks have even gone into their local HD shop, with measurements of length and angles of banjo bolts and gotten them off the shelf, standard 10MM size!
T.C.

[AlanB]

Hi Guys,

After I fitted superbike bars to my SG, I fitted a non-angled type dual caliper master. I had no problems with bleeding, but the lever came back to the bar; even with steel lines.

Turns out that the XS has an almost unique size of master cylinder; 11/16" bore..... other dual disc masters are all 5/8" (16mm).... singles are 1/2"(13mm)

I changed to an 11/16" cylinder from an 1100 "Standard, and had no more problems. I have now changed the whole front-end for a more modern version, and have gone back to the same 5/8" master as I tried on the XS brakes; it is perfectly OK..... so it was not a fault when fitted before.

My advice would be to stick to an 11/16" bore master if you use the front brake...... The only source of that size I have found is the XS1100......

All master cylinders (or at least every one I have ever seen!) has the bore size cast into the body........ apart from a couple of Italian ones ...... which were stamped in.

AlanB

[TopCatGr58]

Well, let me see, 11/16" is 17.5 mm bore size, only 1.5mm larger than the 16, whereas the 16 is 3mm larger than the single caliper MC of 13mm!

Many years ago when I first did my rebuild, my front MC was trashed, but I didn't know much about where to gets rebuild parts, etc, so I went to a local wrecker, and got an MC, but it was apparantly for a bike(Yamaha) with a single front MC, perhaps the XJ11, but with the OEM vinyl lines, it was not adequate!

As Alan said, the lever would come all the way to the grip, it would provide braking power, but not as strong or firm as I would have liked!

Then I put on the SS lines, and after a good bleeding, the feel was rock hard, and I couldn't pull the lever to touch the grip! And this is with a smaller capacity 13mm MC. The 16mm size will provide more volume, and the SS lines do not expand so you get more use of the volume that it pushed thru the lines.

Several members have purchased and installed the 16mm aftermarket MC from Mikes/PNM and with SS lines have reported Xcellent results and feel!

I/we can appreciate Alan's report of his experience and don't want to infer any negativity with it, just wanted to provide another's point of view and experience! YMMV!
T.C.

[AlanB]

Hi TC,

I should have pointed out that others seem to have been happy with the 5/8" master; it just didn't work for me..... and it did not seem to be a faulty master.

I have had several different set-ups on this bike; the current version is best (FZR four-pots, 320mm discs and a [5/8"] remote-reservoir master) but I always felt that the XS brakes worked best with the 11/16 master..... more control?

AlanB

[81xsproject]

As much as I love the look of my FJ master conversion (5/8), it is a little under powered. I have some SS lines that I have yet to install. However, I am kind of putting it off because of my warped-ebay-drilled rotors. The currently send so much pulsing feedback to my hand that I really don't want to feel it with SS lines. So, I am holding out for the EBC floating rotors.

[somesuch]

I am about to try a radial master from a newer GSXR. I believe it is a 3/4 size.

--Nick

[AlanB]

Hi Somesuch,

Every master I have ever dealt with has had the diameter either cast into the body or (occasionally!) stamped into it.

Let us know how you get on.......

AlanB

[somesuch]

Well, the 2005 GSXR750 master cylinder is in along with one SS line and another SS line crossing over like on the GSXR as well. The master is 3/4 like I thought. The ergonomics are better , but the lever is the same, not firmer at all! Looks like the calipers are flexing, and the pads return back into the bores too much as well requiring some travel at the lever to get them back next to the disks. Still feels like there is air in there as well! Don't know how else to bleed them.

--Nick

[AlanB]

Hi Somesuch,

Firstly, check that the calipers are free to move; if it is a Special, that the pivot bolts are not stuck, or if a Standard, that the calipers are free to slide on the rubber bushes.........

There is an easy answer to the pistons "over-returning"...... It only happens when the pistons have been pushed back, and the rubbers take a grip of the pistons. If you are a "Big Guy", just pull the lever back as hard as you can, and hold it for as long as you can; The sustained pressure lets the pistons and rubbers align themselves properly, so the pistons stay where they need to be..... Instant fix!

For the rest of us, pulling the lever back with a heavy-duty cable-tie, or one of the elastic straps used for luggage, and leaving it overnight will do the same job.

When I rebuild calipers, I use a TINY smear of the proper "Brake Grease" (which seems to be a type of wax?) on the rubbers, and this problem is eliminated. DON'T USE "NORMAL" GREASE NEAR RUBBER!!..... ESPECIALLY ON BRAKES!

Hope this helps!

AlanB