Lots of Oil in Airbox

[Getty]

Just fired up a 79 xs1100. It had problems running. after turning choke completly off, it would not accelerate. Was hard to get the RPM's past 2000. At that point I thought it was time to rebuild/clean the carbs. After looking at my manual I thought Id give it a go. Went back into the garage and noticed a large pool of oil under the bike. Oil was comming from the airbox.

After doing some searchs on this site I checked a few things. Dipped a stick into the oil and tried to burn it. The oil did not burn. I thought there was a possibillity I had overfilled it with oil. After checking oil levels again I determined it was not overfilled and was never overfilled. The oil level is currently below the fill window. And it still goes up the tube into the airbox. Please help.

Im hoping this is all related to carbs. When I first started with this bike over the weekend I noticed it was very hard to turn the throttle. Once gas got into the carbs it was much easier to turn.

[Ken Talbot]

Are you checking the oil level in the sight window while the bike is on the sidestand, on on the centrestand?

[prometheus578]

"Good call, Ken..."

My thoughts, too.
Oil is checked with the bike on the centerstand, Getty.
I've seen this plenty of times.

[Getty]

Bike is on the centerstand. Window is darkened. So I have to get a flashlight and look through the oil filler hole. I can see the round window through the filler hole. Currently the oil is below the bottom of the round window.

[DiverRay]

If the window is darkened, you MAY be OVERFILLED!! To make sure, drain the oil, and refill with THREE QUARTS, then check the window. You should be just at the bottom of the sight glass. you can then add about 1 cup more to bring it up to the full mark.
I would also pull all the spark plugs, and do a compression check. IF the bike has been setting a while, the rings could be frozen, and you may have a LOT of blowby. that would also cause the oil in the airbox.

[mro]

Oil and filter change...3.7 quarts
Looking at the oil distrubtion thru the engine does not appear to be any way for that much oil to get to the air box. Even with a cylinder not firing and valve seals shot plus a stuck set of rings...would smoke big time if you got running but that cylinder would pass gas into the oil and little/no oil into the carb. Gas can flow into the air filter box (a steady stream) when there's a stuck float or needle.

For the breather tube to pass a lot of oil...would seem to need crank case way over filled... with either oil, or gas flowing into the crank case.

A small amount oil/gas dripping out of the air filter and an oil leak like on the steel tube that feeds the head.....possible?


mro

[prometheus578]

"Now don't get me wrong...."

I'm not doubting your competence....
But this is a very easy mistake to make, especially on older bikes as the oil inspection window can get cloudy and hard to see clearly through.
Somethimes the window is dark and you can't see the oil level at all.
Sometimes the window is spotlessly clean... and with fresh, clean oil, it doesn't look like any oil is present at all!
I'm confused by your posts, so please bear with me.

Bike is on the centerstand. Window is darkened...(YET)...the oil is below the bottom of the round window.

Looking through the oil filler hole just doesn't cut it. All you'd see is the backing plate behind the window, if that.
If the window is darkened as you state, then it's covered by oil, but you state that the oil is BELOW the level of the window.
The ultimate test is....
Have someone sit on the bike and you kneel next to the window. Have the person lean the bike left and right while you watch for the oil level to rise and fall. If he leans to the right and you can see the oil level rising up INTO the window, you have too little oil.
If he leans to the left and you see the level fall INTO the window then you have too much.
If, as he starts to lean you can see the oil level moving in the CENTER of the window, then you're good.
That round disk thingie on the top of the rear case is an oil particulate condenser... a crank case breather, of sorts.
It traps the oil particles in the crankcase air and allows them to drip back into the engine.
That hose from it.. to the airbox is to burn the oil engine vapors, etc.
The only way for oil to get into the airbox is if you have excessive pressure in the engine, such as caused by an awful lot of blow-by... or by having too much oil in the engine. Like I've mentioned, I used to see that all the time.
Now then.... if the carbs are malfunctioning, fuel will drain into the airbox, mix with the oil and crap that's accumlulated over the years and drip out. A lot of people mistake that for oil. Bad carb would also explain your runability problems, but so would excess oil.
I've seen as much as three extra quarts in some engines!
Again, no one is questioning your knowlege or abilities, but we have little to go on.
From your post, I can gather that this is your first XS1100.
I don't know... it may also be your first bike.
Just trying to cover all bases for you.
Get someone to sit on the bike and gently lean it for you.
Of course, you can try doing it all by yourself, too.
I've done it that way.... but don't recommend it.
I think I admitted to doing that in a thread a few years ago.
The thread was titled...
"Tell about the first time you dropped your bike"

[79XS11F]

Check the type of air filter you have in the box as well. Some are Oil impregnated and if too much oil is applied it will pool in the air box.
Rob

[Getty]

Call me Donkey

After reading the post... not sure of the title...Searching.... I found the guy that said, I only drained the oil from the filter. THAT’S ME.

I am very pleased with the responses. You guys are on top of it.

Visited the Yamaha dealer today. Bought some Yamalube 10w/30 and some Yamalube 20w/50. Drained from the drain plug. Removed filter and drained. Replaced drain plug, and filter assembly with washer, and spring in the right order. Added 3 quarts of oil 10w/30. The 20w/50 is for summer.

Started Bike,
Looked for oil in the airbox,
No More Oil Dripping.
you can call me DONKEY

I would like to answer some of the questions. I am not a new motorcycle owner. I own an 83’ Honda CX 650 that is in great condition. I have replaced the motor, and shock parts in it (shocks leaked). Unfortunately, the stator went bad. Found a great deal on a motor with less miles (ebay). Then bought the motor. Installed it. This thing really works great. I do motorcycle trips in the Colorado Rockies during the spring, summer, and fall. We generally travel for 3 days/ 2 nights. Pack: tents, bags, cookware, clothes. Great time! (Before the 650 I had an 80' CX500. Now I am ready for this Yamaha 79’ or 80' - not sure which year - xs1100.

The bike does not run well. I think it is related to the carburetors. I haven’t ever seen the inside of a carburetor. The Dealer said, $300.00 + parts/labor, if I can get the bike to him. He would rather have the bike as opposed to me taking him just the carbs. Carb synchronization and clean it up.

Unless, you guys tell me "Do it yourself, taking the carburetor out of the bike is not the hardest thing." I can easily take the carburetor, put it on a nice workbench and clean it up. I am up for a challenge. But, I do not own a synchronization tool... Driving the bike might be difficult. You can see my dilemma.

Thanks again! You guys are awesome!

Sorry for being a donkey. The oil level does not work when on center stand. It works when the bike is held on center / on tires. Not on the center stand. My center stand is old.

[mro]

Cleaning/tuning the carbs is relitively easy...
Especially if the bike has stock exhaust and air box.
You do need to know model/year tho,
check your serial number here
http://www.xs11.com/specifications/serialno.shtml

Carb kits can be had from several places.
Synk tool can be made (can be done with a single vacuum gauge but much easier with mercury stixs which I think cost around $45.00.

Nothing wrong with letting a shop do the work. Cool to just be able to ride em with out wrenching altho is good to know as much as you can about em especially if your going on a rode trip.


mro

[prometheus578]

"YOU BOOB!"

There are new members...
...and then there are "Officially Recognised New Members".
(The official ones hold a higher status around here)

To enter this "inner sanctum", one must admit their mistakes
(which you have done)
One must have the ability to laugh at one's self.
(which you have done)
One must be mocked and laughed at.
(which I have done for you)

By the powers vested unto me as a Moderator, both magnanimous and munificent... I hereby bestow upon new member GETTY the esteemed title of "Officially Recognised New Member"... with all rights, privileges and powers granted as such hereto, hereupon, henceforth, and etc.

[prometheus578]

"Carbs... do them yourself"

I noticed it was very hard to turn the throttle

Cable is probably rusted or gunked up. Disconnect it at the throttle grip, get a nice silicone cable lube, and spray it till it drips outta the end of the cable by the carbs. It helps if you pull the cable in and out whilst doing so. Don't make a funnel out of duct tape to 'help' get the lube in there. The lube will disolve the adhesive and take it with it down the cable. Grab the cable in your left hand and make a little funnel with your top two fingers. Pool the lube in that... you may want to wear gloves.
Yeah, your carbs need cleaning. Probably only running on three cylinders. Warm the bike up, and spray a little water on the headers pipes... I'm sure at least one of them won't sizzle like the other three.
There are many threads here dealing with carb cleaning... it's not hard. They also explain how to synch your carbs enough so that it runs decently.
Then you can take it to Yamaha for a proper synch. Should only be about a half hour's labor... about the same $45 that MRO estimated for carb sticks to do it yourself.

(Always bench test the carbs before putting them back on the bike)
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=baking+pan

[Getty]

I have synced the 650's carbs with a home made sync tool. 1/4 clear hose taped to a 1x2wood, filled with tranny fluid.

After absorbing the latest posts I have determined that I will go through with the carb cleaning on my own. The Dealer said, you do not need any parts. Just clean it with a good carb cleaner. Dont seperate the carbs. And blow the holes with the cleaner thoroughly. I allready noticed the engine side rubber boots are very cracked. 54$ x 4 argghhh. Do you guys suggest I replace the boots? Can I just high Temp black RTV the boots? Any other parts necessary since the carb will be open?

I Lubed all the cables before filling it with 90 quarts of oil something was sticking in the carberators

Asking to many questions. I will start my research.

[Getty]

1980 SG . That is good to know!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Getty,

Well, you join the ranks of Dan/Stralya for the mystery oil trick!

Now as for the carbs, you may actually need some parts, specifically the float needle/seats, and perhaps the float bowl gaskets. Again, the need for the exact year is important, because Yamaha changed the design of the carbs and the internals in the 79-80 year change. The early years 78-79 used solid float needles and seats with flat washer/seal. The 80-81's used a rubber/viton tipped needle valve with rubber Oring seal for the seat!!! Also, pilot jet tower is capped on earlier models, uncapped on later ones!

But, yes, the other parts should be able to be cleaned and soaked in cleaner....but do NOT soak the bodies, you will damage the butterfly shaft seals causing a vacuum leak!

The intakes are dual layered, can look very bad on outside, but be fine internally, so like you said slathering some black RTV on the outside can smooth and seal them. Check how they mount to the engine, the rubber on the mating surface can dry and crack, causing vacuum leaks, you can use a gasket and or sealant or both to remount them. Also check the vacuum synch ports, the caps can also age, harden and leak causing vacuum loss!!!

The throttle cable just turns the butterfly shaft. The carb slides are vacuum controlled, check them for cracks/pinholes. Check out the LINKs section, find the one for the Yamaha Online parts fiche, look at the exploded diagrams for the carbs so you can see how it comes apart, like the main jet nozzle coming UP thru the carb body, now out thru the float bowl area, this is after you unscrew the main jet and washer.

Lots of this is covered in the tech tips, view from the MAIN FORUM PAGE, not just the links in the left column, not all of the NEW tips are linked from there! Another Bench Synch technique involves looking at the 3 holes in the upper throat of the engine side of carbs, and setting the butterflies so that they just partially cover the hole closest to the butterfly being totally closed.

The jets are brass, and can easily break if you don't use the proper fitting screwdrivers.