Get It Done (before spring)

[Roy Bean]

I am sure i will be riding before Spring but i hope to have everything ready for the long haul.
I picked the bike up today from where i work and carried it to town to clean.I removed the tank and seat and sprayed the whole bike down with Armorall Wheel Cleaner. Then wash and rinse. A whole lot better than before.
I then carried my bike to my shop and removed the battery tray to sand and paint while the new battery was charging. While still waiting for the battery to charge i started sanding on the dull side covers. I was using 200 grit and the side covers were looking a lot better. I then took the side cover to my buffer and very carefully started to buff. I think the covers will come out nicely when i get a chance to finish them.
Next is a day going through the wiring. Not my favorite Job.
If anyone has any tips or advice about something i need to do before i start riding let me know.
This site has a lot of good info and i have been reading a lot.
Thanks in advance for all the help i know i'm going to need. Roy

[prometheus578]

"When was the last time...?"

Change your fork oil.
Change the gear lube in the middle and final drives.
Grease the splines on the drive shaft.
Other than that, just general maints.

[mro]

If anyone has any tips or advice about something i need to do before i start riding let me know.

Set date on your camera...


mro
btw, check mfg date on the tires too.

[AlanB]

Hi Roy,

Somewhere on here there is a whole section on resurrecting a bike after it has sat a while; I think it is somewhere in the "Tech Tips"; try having a look at that.

If you are lucky, one of the guys who know what they are doing will drop in a link.........

AlanB

[79XS11F]

200 grit paper is too course ... Use 600 or 800 wet / dry paper and use it wet. 600 grit will leave scratches that will need to be sanded away with 600 or 800 paper so you will end up doing it twice before buffing with appropriate compound.
Rob

[TopCatGr58]

Link Dropped!

HERE is that link to the thread, it's in the MISC Forum, what to look for in a neglected XS11, and what to work on to get road worthy!
T.C.

[trbig]

My cases started off looking like yours. On some of the parts, I had to start with a 180 grit. It was taking hours with the finer stuff to get down to good metal under all the crap. I was using a bunch of steps progressing to finer stuff, but I finally got to about 3. Whatever I need to start, then a 6-800, followed by the finest I can find.

Good luck and keep working on it. Watch the car washes with open carbs... water sitting in the cylinders isn't good. Whatever you gave for the bike, it was worth it for that exhaust alone.


Tod

[Roy Bean]

Thanks for the tips. That is a $84.00 motorcycle. I will be buying a gasket kit and remove the parts off the cases so i can polish the covers. I'm too old to squat down to give them a good polish and my shop is too small for a lift. It's 14x14 and i have five bikes in there now.
I'll have to find and replace all the chrome fastners.(that will be fun)
I hope to replace the fork tubes as they have some heavey pits.
The tires are the pits also and need replacing.
Thanks for the link,i have a hard time searching.

A question. Can a battery tender be wired to the auxilary post below the fuse box or are they just hot with the key on?

I do understand about the sand paper. The oxidation on the side covers was so thick that the 200 grit paper was not used to the point of harm. i just sanded the white powder off and used the buff to determine the best clay to use.

I have a friend that rebuilds carbs full time and i think i will send the carbs to him. They seem to work good (the bike pulls good)
but he will return them and they willl look brand new.

Thanks again. I'll be out on the road and hopefully will have a manual when i get home.

I know set the camera! Roy

[Stralya]

auxillary posts

They are hot all the time but it's not a good idea to attach a battery tender to them while both battery terminals are in place. Best to disconnect the positive terminal and attach the battery tender directly to the battery.

Dan
Third year auto electrical apprentice before the Army lied to me.

[Roy Bean]

The Army lied to you? Thanks. Roy

[Stralya]

A clarification and a back flip!

I know it would be a waste of time connecting a battery tender to the auxillary terminals without the battery being connected, just thought I'd stop the, 'Well Duhhhhh's'

Connecting a battery tender to the auxillary terminals is fine as long as your connectors are small enough not to earth out on the frame etc. You don't want to blow fuses.

[Roy Bean]

It's early here and late there i would imagine and everyone is entitled to one brain fart a day.
I've been reading up on replacing the fuse block. Also the thread about the battery sensor.The PO removed the sensor. I hope i can find one. Roy

[trbig]

Instead of trying to find a sensor you might try this fix instead.

Battery Fix


Alot of times, the new batteries won't have a sensor to hook to, so you'll get the fail light anyway. Just remember to check the fluid level in the battery periodically.


Tod

[Roy Bean]

Thanks. Roy