Hope this isn't that bad....

[manshack_one]

I've been riding consistently for a few days. As the days have gone by my exhuast is getting louder and my power is getting less. Almost all the muffler mend putty stuff has fallen off and now i've got a complete break between the exhaust pipe where the heatshield peice connects to the megaphone peice by the rear brake lever. I guess I'll pull the whole thing off and get the local muffler shop to do some real welding on it and get it patched back up.

Also, I have an oil leak from the top of the engine. I'm thinking valve cover gasket. I'd bet a dollar it's never been changed since it was new over 27 yrs ago! It's leaking down and getting on the fins and covers.






It would also appear in that last photo that one of the header ring clamp bolts are either missing or had the head stripped off. I've never looked that closely because I just felt for leaking air with my hand and didn't give that close an inspection.

I was hoping to ride some more. I got a pair of gloves to test out from Santa but I guess I'll just have to roll down the window on the minivan and stick my hand out until the exhaust and gasket are fixed!

[skids]

If it leaks exhaust at the header gasket, it will definately run like crap.

[prometheus578]

"I don't know..."

Picture doesn't show the area too well, but it doesn't look like a valve cover leak to me.
As you know, the first thing to do is to hose the area clean with Brakleen, take a quick spin around the block and reinspect to pinpoint the source of the oil leak. Wind turbulence behind the front tire, etc can show a spray of oil stain on an engine quite a distance from it's actual source.
Runs like crap and also has an oil leak? (aside from the exhaust leak at the muffler)... Run a compression check just to rule out a warped head or blown head gasket.
Yeah, youse gots a broken exhaust bolt

[renegade_xs11g]

Manshack.....as prom said you have a broken exhaust bolt,
PB Blaster the heck out of it after you take the header pipes off....
ViseGrips should get the stud out OK....

Make sure you use anti-sieze on the new studs

If you need to replace the pipe after the collector and before the muffler, mine was 1-7/8 OD pipe, you should be able to find a piece at your local muffler shop.....just smacked it on and welded cut and clamp on you mufflers....


Good Luck!!!!!!!!!!!

[John]

Heat

It doesn't hurt anything to apply some heat from a propane torch to the area around the broken stud, and if there enough of it left; use a vise grip on it if you can. The best place I have found to do it is inside the exhaust port where the flame can be concentrated on the stud easily. It has worked well for me.

[manshack_one]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I've got the bike at a muffler shop right now. Owner is a biker so he knows just what the Yammy needs. When I get it back I'll clean the area and recheck for the leak. Of course it will probably need ice tires about that time as I've heard this new years is going to be nasty for us here in East Texas. I'll post back in a few days.

[manshack_one]

Hey, is the valve cover gasket and head gasket the same thing? I'm looking at the diagram and the part I'm thinking about is listed as a head gasket but I've always called it a valve cover gasket.

[prometheus578]

Valve cover gasket goes under the big aluminum shiney part at the top of the engine. Looks like a big "H".
Head gasket goes between the cylinder bank and the head... is rectangular, has four holes(cylinders) and a slot in the middle where the cam chain passes through.

Head gasket is below the level of the exhaust ports... valve cover gasket is above.

[manshack_one]

Well, let's hope it's the one on top then as it doesn't sound too fun to replace the one on bottom! Since the oil leak appears to be dripping down onto the exhaust i'm leaning toward the valve cover gasket. I'll know more after the exhaust is patched up and I get it back to my own shop. Thanks!

[mitch]

Oil Leak

Also clean it all up and pay close atten to the Cam chain Tensioner it will leak and blow back like in your pics. it is a very eazy fix , ya might look at buying a set of pipes on E-Bay cheap if u shop hard Good luck and Happy New Year
Doug

[manshack_one]

So who's got pics of what to look for on the tensioner?

[prometheus578]

Tensioner usually leaks from that round, black plastic plug in the front.
Really need to degrease the whole engine, run it a bit, and then see where it's coming from.

[mitch]

Info

Read this part all your answers can be found on the site if you look . lots of info on repairs etc Scroll to the Bottom.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=63
Good luck
Doug

[egsols]

What Prom said, check the tensioner for leaks, its right in the middle of the motor at the front.

Hey Prom what's with the techno jargin, (LMAO), big shiny aluminum thing, (still LMAO)

I use a ferrometer at work (metal detector) but one of the guys who used to work for me called it the "yellow buzzy thingy"

[prometheus578]

"Yeah, I don't know..."

When writing, one must be constantly aware of the knowlege level of the target audience.
One shouldn't use obscure acronyms or esoteric technical jargon unless the reader is familiar with the items.
I apologize if I confused anyone by using words of the realm, so to speak.
But, now that we all understand each other....

It's a good thing that I don't write Tech Tips.
In order to remove the "big shiny aluminum part" one must first remove the ballast resister using a phillips screw stick. The Big Shiny Aluminum Part then can be removed using a common activator... etc.
(Sears needs to update their tool catalog for me.. or get more knowlegeable sales people)