Electrical !!

[calmck49]

What component would go bad intermitantly and cause no electrical on your bike. At first it was a one in a while "fluke" and now I am not getting any power to the dash the starter anywhere. All fuses good everthing is plugged in. Batt is strong. Anny suggestions??????????

[tinman905]

I had the same problem ,my bike would just shut down . With my bike it was in the main fuse connector,whenever I wiggled the connector it would shut everything down ,after cleaning it evrything was fine.

[Dragonrider]

I've seen it be the main fuse...NOT in your fusebox, but under the left sidecover or seat...a rubber holder thingy that only holds the main and a spare...it gets loose and intermittent.

I've also had the main wire break off the solder joint in the ignition switch.

[Dads11special]

Same thing happened to me. It turned out to be simply a loose connection on the battery.

[calmck49]

Thanks guys the wife has put a halt on the scooter working for now. Christmas eve and all. I will try to sneak out later and check out those two things.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Calmck49,

I reviewed your profile, but you only state an XS11, amongst your other 55 bikes??? There are sometimes prominent differences in the years/models of these machines, and so knowing the exact model/year can help us provide you with more specific troubleshooting information!

For example, the main fuse on the 78-79 series is IN the main fuse block, but the later years, Yamaha separated it and put it on the LEFT side of the bike and so you have to look around to find it!

And what type of fuses, the OEM glass ones or have you replaced your block with the newer solid style fuses?? The glass ones can LOOK okay, but when actually removed and tested, can show a short/break!

How are your ground connections, the one for the battery contacts the frame, and can rust/corrode, and there's another engine to frame ground strap behind the engine near the battery box, same thing, corrosion.

Also, check out the main key switch, can be removed, disassembled, wires have been known to come unsoldered, as well as corroded contacts, etc.!
T.C.

[calmck49]

Top cat
Thanks for the help. This bike is a 79. Here is the deal I got these bikes from this guy and his kid. The 79, the one with the problem ,was hacked on by the kid. He tried to rat bike it, and in doing so he did a lot of wierd Sh#$ to it. The main wire has an in line fuse it. It is the cylinder glass kind. Aftermarket no doubt. It looks good but now that you bring that up I will change it anyway. The fuse box is held together by a piece of a milk jug or something. Even though all was working before. This is the bike I painted then it wouldn't start. After John pointed it out, I pluged in the ballast resistor and it ran AWSOME. I got down the road and blue second gear in the first 100'. SOOOOOO I just through another motor in it I had lying around and it fired up. Turned it off to get my helmet and I lost power. I pulled the seat shook some wires around and it started again. Turned it off put the seat back on put my helmet on and No power again. Now I can't get power anywhere. I have changed every major electric component on the bike except fuse box. I did not check that main fuse though. Assumed it was good by looking at it.

I have to wait till wifey turns her back before I can go and check. I am banned from my own garage right now. Got to play santa later. I sure hope that is it. How many main fuses are on the 79 or better yet where should the stock ones be at?

[TopCatGr58]

You'll probably need to pull the seat again, and check for chaffed wires where the seat and fender/frame contact. That's where they run thru the harness and to the tail lights, etc.. If a power one gets raw, you get a direct short, and will blow the fuse!

Sounds like you still have the OEM fuseblock, the plastic one with the glass fuses and brass prongs that hold them in place, but easily corrode, fracture, and will eventually fall apart! A replacement block is available for a modest fee, check out the repairs/mods tech tips replacing the fuseblock, you'll find the info and where/how to order! Or you may get several other ideas on how to repair and replace the glass fuses with the solid style without even installing a fuesblock!

The Main fuse is one of the 4 in the block along with the Ignition, Turn, and headlight; Ign./headlight= 10 amp, the turn=20amp, the main IIRC=30amp. But IF the PO wired in a separate one, then you'll have to figure it out yourself! Relax, enjoy your Xmas, it'll be there tomorrow!
T.C.

[erithanis]

I had this problem recently on my XS1100 special '79 It turned out to be the emergency kill switch on the right handlebar assembly. The switch is self contained and the plastic ridges that kept it in the on position were worn down and let it slip into off. It was just a little slip, I couldn't even tell the switch had moved by looking. Took a couple days to trouble shoot and then I noticed it when I held the switch gently and slowly twisted.

[xsilerating]

Same problem...

Calmck49

Unfortunately, I experienced the same thing on quite a few occasions, until I found out what/where the problem was located.

In my case, it was with the lone positive feed wire which runs from the solenoid - right side cover - right through to the ignition switch (under the seat, gas tank, inside/through the headlight bucket). Shortly after leaving the solenoid (about 3 in.) the wire changes to a plug and a receptacle (male & female) connection. The wire had corroded inside this fitting resulting with a poor connection on the male lead as well as a loose fit where the male and female ends joined, resulting with the male lead becoming disconnected from the female plug. This resulted with an intermittent connection even though the wires looked as though they were firmly connected.

These older bikes can tend to have all kinds of electrical problems/issues. Provides for a good learning experience.

Good Luck