Need to give the front end an overhaul.

[renegade_xs11g]

the blinker brackets got here

I think this might work......

[TopCatGr58]

Re: I may have gotten lucky

Originally posted by renegade_xs11g
I've pulled the steering stem,
the bearings had been repacked, I found new grease
the 'double' nuts, were way too tight...
clymers says they should be around 9 ft lbs, these were ~50 or better
the proper torque for the stem (the single nut that holds the 'tree-top' down)
is around 60 lbs isn't it???????

this should cause the 'click'

Hey Renegade,

Yep, you may have found your binding problem. The steering shaft double nuts are like you said, 9 ft/lbs, but the top triple tree bolt is 61 ft/lbs as per the service manual, looks like the PO misread the manual!
T.C.

[renegade_xs11g]

That's just what I was thinking, TopCat.
Thanks

[Yamanatic]

Surprise surprise! An obvious boo-boo.

Be sure to replace both upper and lower bearings - the excessive torque has trashed the bearings, even though the may look fine. You nay not be able to see the damage, but you can feel (or hear) it.

The steering stem is an easy one to over-torque when tightening the 2nd locking ring. I just rebuilt a Moto Guzzi front end with the same issue - the nut was so tight the tapered rollers had flat spots, and the races had dents in the hardening!

When setting up steering head bearings, only torque them to finger tight, plus the width of one of the nut slots (about 24 INCH pounds or 2 foot pounds), making sure they are well set by bringing the torque up to 20 or 30 foot pounds a few times, and working the steering head back and forth to set the well greased races and balls; it does not hurt to smack the tree with a rubber mallet a few times with the extra torque applied when installing new races. Then back the 1st nut off until it is loose, and bring it down as tight as you can with fingers only, and a nudge more.

Making sure the 1st nut does not move, I lock the 2nd stack nut on top of the first; if you don't have 2 of the correct spanners, this can be accomplished with a pointy drift. Mark the 1st nut to insure the position has not changed. The lock nut will increase the applied torque on the bearing because the process of locking the 2nd nut reversed the thread loading on the 1st nut; an engineering effect that is easily overlooked.

Properly adjusted, there should be NO friction felt in the steering stem when moved from lock to lock. It should fall to the side on it's own. If done properly, a 1000 mile re-adjustment will verify your results, and if greased every 20,000 miles or so, you will never replace the bearing again.

This technique was demonstrated to our Yamaha service department by the Yamaha Factory Service Representative back in the early 1980's, and is recommended for all models. Over the years I have installed and adjusted hundreds of steering head bearings in this manner, and never had a failure or complaint, from motocross racers, to the most behemouth lux-0-barge touring bikes.

Many people feel this is too loose, and torque them down a little more anyway, but it is much better to be a little under rather than over tightened. I have seen dented and cracked races, flattened rollers and balls, and almost every one was due to overtightening. If too tight, there is no room for the grease film, and metal to metal contact develops quickly; the hammering effect of riding takes it's toll and before you know it, you are doing it all again.

This is just a suggestion, and you should do what ever makes you feel safe. I hope this is the end of your problem, and remember that as soon as a race divots or a ball/roller flattens, the steering head is no longer properly indexed, and play in the front end results no matter how tight the bearing is torqued. Keep in mind too that steering stem and swingarm bearings do not spin. The balls/rollers are in Exactly the same position 99.9% of the time, and do not distribute wear evenly.

Cheers,
Warren

[renegade_xs11g]

any advise on wether or not to use used bearings from another bike
and will 78 xs750 2b standard be the same??????

[Yamanatic]

I took a look on eBay, and new bearings are around $32 shipped. For that amount, it may not justify putting the time and effort into salvaging the 750 bearings. I think the 750 & 1100 bearings are the same though; the numbers on the bearing races will tell if you decide to go that route.

[renegade_xs11g]

thanks, I happen to have the 750 dis-assembled, that's why I thought of it,

Little Brother has donated a lot of parts, thought maybe....