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Do I need to remove the middle gear assembly and the clutch to get the cases apart. The Clymer manual does not really show what to do. Thanks.
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Middle drive no,
but I've always taken the clutch out.
mro -
Thanks, middle gear and clutch info
I will leave the middle gear unit in place and remove the clutch. Thanks.Comment
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If you are referring to the mid drive unit, then that has to be removed to split the cases.Comment
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If you are referring to the mid drive unit, then that has to be removed to split the cases.
Yup... 3 screws go to the bottom case and 4 on the top case. I was sitting here wondering if you could just remove the bottom 3 and split the cases, but it would leave you NO wiggle room trying to get the cases off and on. Also, there's a good possibility of messing up the middle drive gasket either way you do it... which would mean taking off the unit to replace it anyway.
What I was wondering about is why I remove the clutch basket every time also? But in your case, you will need to remove it to get to the shaft that holds your shift forks and oil pump idler gear, which is behind the basket. You'll need that removed before you can pull out any gears.
In your other thread, MRO told you about removing the "Oil nozzle" which is under your shifter cover.
You can see that the case split goes right through this.(White arrows) You will need a T30 torx bit for these screws. It wouldn't hurt to have an impact driver to remove them since they are Loc-tited in, and it's easy to strip the heads out. You will also need to remove the other 3 in green to get to the main gear shaft, but you can do that after splitting if you wish.
Pay attention to the markings that the red lines are going to. On re-assembly, all these marks will (Should) line up when the tranny is in 2nd gear.Last edited by trbig; 12-15-2007, 09:40 AM.Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
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I do that before Disassembly...On re-assembly, all these marks will (Should) line up when the tranny is in 2nd gear.
thorx screws when using the correct size driver come out w/o problems...
Using a piece of cardborad with holes punched in for bolts reinstallation is a easy fast/way to put em back where they came from. I do same with valves or any odd engine where the bolts are different so they go where there suppose to. Most engines do not label the case holes.
mro
btw, good pics
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