I know a lot of guys swear by the Colortune method but here's a carb tuning method that has worked successfully for me.
Here's a pic of Toucan79 being tuned "by ear." The following assumes you are using all new tune-up parts and that your carbs are clean.
First - warm the engine up to correct operating temperature. I turn the pilot (idle) screws clockwise until I hear each cylinder's firing begin to weaken while also listening to the idle speed & quality. Do NOT turn the idle screw in until the tiny tip touches the seat/orifice hard or it will break off - or jam. This mistake could ruin your day. Then I back out the idle screw about 1.5 to 1.75 turns CC. Normally the idle speed will increase slightly. I work from #1 to #4 slowly and patiently.
At a steady 1,500 to 1,800 rpm I listen for any telltale popping or spitting sounds to ensure each cylinder is firing correctly. After the final throttle chop I listen again at low idle speed for any misfiring and correct it for that cylinder.
After the initial static carb tuning I take the bike for a long ride at mixed speeds and then read each sparkplug for color. So far I haven't had any problems with synching the carbs. Using my "by ear" method there's usually no need.
I realize this tuning method isn't for everyone. With patience and practice one can develop their own "Tuners Touch."
Maybe I'm a bit brave 'cause the bike cost less than the fairing sitting on it. Do not attempt this after consuming your Guiness.
RJ
Here's a pic of Toucan79 being tuned "by ear." The following assumes you are using all new tune-up parts and that your carbs are clean.
First - warm the engine up to correct operating temperature. I turn the pilot (idle) screws clockwise until I hear each cylinder's firing begin to weaken while also listening to the idle speed & quality. Do NOT turn the idle screw in until the tiny tip touches the seat/orifice hard or it will break off - or jam. This mistake could ruin your day. Then I back out the idle screw about 1.5 to 1.75 turns CC. Normally the idle speed will increase slightly. I work from #1 to #4 slowly and patiently.
At a steady 1,500 to 1,800 rpm I listen for any telltale popping or spitting sounds to ensure each cylinder is firing correctly. After the final throttle chop I listen again at low idle speed for any misfiring and correct it for that cylinder.
After the initial static carb tuning I take the bike for a long ride at mixed speeds and then read each sparkplug for color. So far I haven't had any problems with synching the carbs. Using my "by ear" method there's usually no need.
I realize this tuning method isn't for everyone. With patience and practice one can develop their own "Tuners Touch."
Maybe I'm a bit brave 'cause the bike cost less than the fairing sitting on it. Do not attempt this after consuming your Guiness.
RJ
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