turn signals

[mro]

Where is the flasher from? auto store ones can work but may need to be plugged in differently.

Use your meter to see if voltage getting to flasher.
Turn switch on first. Do same for hazzord.

Will then know which end has a problem and where to look.


mro

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Redbone,

As has been stated, you need to clean the ground contacts for the lights themselves. The Click you hear is the relay being thrown, but it needs a certain amount of current draw thru it to heat up the mechanism inside the flasher to cause it to complete and then break the circuit=the flash process, but IF the grounds are not good, not enough current can flow, and so the flasher never gets to heat up enough to complete the cycle!!

Steppenwolf, folks have also taken their flasher unit apart, bending the prongs that keep the housing on it, and found the contacts inside the mechanism, look sorta like old ignition points, and just filed/sanded the corrosion or burned contact surfaces clean, and that has also helped!
T.C.

[redbone]

mns flasher probs

fyi...i'm sure you guys are on the rite track. to mro i do get voltage rite up to the flasher relay. this relay was bought at a yamaha dealer....altho it looks just like the ones at any auto parts store. has 3 prongs. i used to hear the relay clik when i had the original relay but not since i got the new one. maybe just coincidence?? unfortunately it is starrting to get cold here in pa. and my garage has zero heat, and poor liting, so my time spent trying to troubleshoot is sometimes very short. i'll post updates again

[STEPPENWOLF]

Okay,went thru and cleaned every connection,bulbs,flasher and fuses....nada,so went back to fuse block after reading a bit about how it might not be the best design in the world and bingo,I was taping lightly as to where the fuse is held and the bottom conector moved ,I mean if I didn't have my glasses on and a good light source I would not have seen it.....Dilema,do I up grade to a fuse block that I have seen on here( TC's I think) or do I fix this one as I wanna keep the mechanics as close to orginal as possible.

Thanks for all the tips.

[DiverRay]

upgrade. on some things, new is MUCH more reliable. You could try and find one that fit, but you CANNOT put in a "used" fuse block, and expect it to work for any length of time.

[redbone]

Originally posted by STEPPENWOLF
Okay,went thru and cleaned every connection,bulbs,flasher and fuses....nada,so went back to fuse block after reading a bit about how it might not be the best design in the world and bingo,I was taping lightly as to where the fuse is held and the bottom conector moved ,I mean if I didn't have my glasses on and a good light source I would not have seen it.....Dilema,do I up grade to a fuse block that I have seen on here( TC's I think) or do I fix this one as I wanna keep the mechanics as close to orginal as possible.

Thanks for all the tips.

i have just started to try to get my xs going..the 1st thing i figured out was get rid of the original fuse block. there is a place in nevada...[i think it was sparks] that sell them for about 9 - 10 dollars for a 4 ckt and 12 - 13 for a 6 ckt. i think it was called "wired connection" or sumthing like that. a google will turn it up. hope this helps. redbone

[STEPPENWOLF]

Thanks for the replys,well got out today for almost 65 miles,signals worked great,I did put a small sliver of a tooth pick to hold the connector in place.....shoot me now, ya can't see it, it will never get wet,but I wanna presereve this bike as close to orginal specs as possible,not cosmetics..fairing,saddle bags etc..
I took out the four fuses and cleaned them a bit along with the connectors,every thing works and I am happy and so is the bike... but if it weren't for this site and all the posts I have read on this subject.....left arm out,left turn,right arm out right turn...

THANKS, BILLIE RAY BOB JR. STEPPENWOLF