Dam those barrels !

[gman]

Hello again,
after being very silly and snapping a head bolt on my xl1100, i thought, hey, i will just strip the cams, head, barrels etc and change the stud. Thats when the fun started. To cut a long story short, after dropping the entire engine on my thumb (between frame and engine) 2 fractures and seven stitches, i cannot for the liofe of me get the barrels off the crank case, any ideas as i do not want to damage the barrels

Cheers

Gary

[mason79]

crap that inhales

[XJLimited]

1st make sure you have all the Nuts & Bolts off, then might as well Tap those barrels underneath with an Wooden or Plastic Hammer on all corners in sequence (one by one) Seems the sealant/gasket has been there since ages hence it isnt letting go easy, but it certainly cant hold up for long as well. Patience really is the key here..

[trbig]

You can do a search for this as it's been discussed. Basically, there's no magic bullet for it. When you tap or pry though, make sure it's at the spots of the cooling fins where there's a verticle line connecting all the fins. I'ts very easy to break the fins off.

It has been suggested to get the smallest piano wire or guitar string and try to saw through the gasket. It is being held by both the cylinders and the case, so you essentially need to cut the gasket in half through the middle. A lot of times, if you ever get it to budge, just keep working on it. You may also have some problems once it's loose. Dirt, oil, and crud builds up along the head bolts and head. When you get to the top of the bolts, the opening is narrow from all this cemented crud and the cylinders won't slide off all the way. This isn't always the case, but be prepared.


Tod

[81xsproject]

If you did all that to your thumb, it sounds like you are trying to pull the engine before you pull the jugs. Unless you have some sort of engine stand, I recommend leaving it mounted in the frame until you get the jugs off.

[AlanB]

Hi Guys,

We have a slightly different problem over here in the UK; (Gman is UK too!) They use a load of salt and grit on the roads here in the winter, and even the summers can be damp.

The salt/grit mix gets down the two exposed studs at the front of the jugs, into the space at the bottom of the block. It has had twenty-some years in there to fill the gap and rot the studs; the jugs can end up heavily stuck on the studs, plus the usual gasket problems.

AlanB

[mro]

If you did all that to your thumb, it sounds like you are trying to pull the engine before you pull the jugs.

Much easier and can do by yourself if in frame.

Dead center in front you will find a reinforced section.
Soak bolts with liquid wrench for a few days. It's nice and thin plus will break down tar etc. (after awhile). (poking the crud build up and 120 psi air blast now and then helps some too.)

I have a pry bar about 20 inches long and on one end has a flat section about a inch across and one and a quarter long (wedge shaped from 5/16 to about 3/16 thick , perpindicular to shaft.

Just happens to fit into the reinforced area and can apply a lot a pressure to seperate cylinders/case with out damage. Once the jugs move a little I use flat metal scrapers to get gasket disingaged from what ever side it's least stuck to. Most of the time once you get this far they will come off with only a minor struggle. The first 1/4 inch can be a %ich.


mro
BTW,
has taken from two minuets to over two hours to get em off.

[trbig]

has taken from two minuets to over two hours to get em off.



See there MRO... and we didn't even know you could dance!!



Tod

[John]

Why Tod

Originally posted by trbig
has taken from two minuets to over two hours to get em off.



See there MRO... and we didn't even know you could dance!!



Tod

I had no idea that you could dance a minuet ! You are such a stud! Can you Tango also? A Cha Cha perhaps?

[prometheus578]

"From old posts...."

"""Oh, you're such a stud!"
Ken's right about the sand and grit around the studs, but that's not really what's holding it down.(In my opinion) The grit and $hit causes probs when trying to remove the cylinder from the engine... the grit fills the channels that the studs slide into. Not really a problem sliding the cylinder up, till... it gets to the point where the studs flair where the threads are. Then the grit filled channels, which have formed to the diameter of the studs.. hang up and can't slide past the flaired ends.
As far as initially separating the cylinder from the case... HAHAHAHA have fun! Took me three hours one time! (lost money on that job!) Finally ground down some chisels, and managed to tap them between the cylinder and the base and eventually to lift it up and break the gasket. The gasket bonds to the case and also to the cylinder.
The effort here is expended in trying to have the gasket rip in half thickness-wise, if you know what I mean. You'll end up with the top half of the gasket bonded on the cylinder, and the bottom half bonded on the case.
Use JBWeld to glue back on the fins that you break off!
I'm not trying to make light of your situation... just stating that it's a real joy of a job.""""

[79XS11F]

When I did my 1179 kit I used a RUBBER mallet. Striking the cylinders SQUARELY. glancing blows will break off fins. There are also 2 pry points in the front. Check your manual and pry with CARE .. pry a little then use the rubber mallet a little and repeat as necessary. The gasket will fatten up before it breaks free. When it starts fatting up get at it with a razor knife and spray-able gasket remover. They will come off ...
Rob

[trbig]

Can you Tango also? A Cha Cha perhaps?

I think that if you can't do the robot to a song.. it's not worth dancing to! lol. (OK.. so I can't do the robot either. I'm SO white.... )




Tod

[mro]

See there MRO... and we didn't even know you could dance!!

mro is multi-talented...

I'm SO .......

TC would have us excomunicated if we were to comment on that!

Ball room dancing is fun, but seldom can find a partner.


mro