XS Eleven Special fuel sending unit

[BrianB]

you mean the foam rings between the instrument and the outer can?

Yes! I had to order them buy got them at my local Snake River Yamaha in Meridian Idaho. $15.00 per dampener. I will include a link to the site with phone number. They could probably be shipped right to your door possible.

http://www.snakeriveryamaha.com/

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Fred,

I thought I had put this info in with the tech tip, but just reviewed and noticed that it wasn't there!

If you'll look at this thread and scroll past the tach repair section, you'll see some insulation that I found at LOWES that I was able to modify and use to replace the foam gauge cushions....it has a small seam where it's joined together, but you could position that at the bottom where it wouldn't show so much!? JAT!
T.C.

[skids]

Well then, just git 'er done, TC! We need tech tips like that you know.

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
I thought I had put this info in with the tech tip, but just reviewed and noticed that it wasn't there!
T.C.

[BrianB]

Well after rebuilding the Petcocks and stands and fixing the sending unit, and after having previously started it and tested, I decided to crank it up tonight. 4 days latter.

I had a very hard time getting it to start. At least I know I have a great battery. It did finally start with chock off. Ran terrible like flooded and poping from the pipes. Chock on it would die.

I checked the book and all the lines were properly connected. However I could not find any information on left or right petcock.

I finally decided to swap fuel line and vacumm line on the petcock and what do you know, It ran top notch.

I do know that when I took it apart, the PRIME position on both were towards the rear and OFF to the front. I put them back exactly so is this the correct way or did a PO help in my quest to FUBAR this?

At least it is running fantastic.

[AlanB]

Hi BrianB,

On the SG, there should be no vac lines anywhere near the petcocks.........

One vac line should go from a carb boot (any carb boot will do, but most use no2or3!) direct to the vac port on the octopus. The nipples on the other three boots should be capped.

You should also have the line from the vac advance unit (under the left side engine cover), but it goes to an outlet on the no2 carb BODY; no-where else!

the two petcock outlets which flow when the tap is at either "ON" or "RES" go to the two "INs" on the octy, then out to the carbs.

The two which flow when at "PRIME" bypass the octy, and go direct to the carbs.

There are numerous posts on this, and some pretty good diagrams somewhere. It is much easier to follow on a pic than a verbal.

AlanB

[egsols]

The petcocks should have an "L" or "R" stamped on them. You should then be able to see a "1" or a "2" on one of the lines depended whether its the left or right petcock. The number corresponds to the the number on the octopus. In summary put the L petcock on the left side of the tank and run one hose number to number from petcock to octopus. The second line runs from the unmarked tap on the pc to the outside tap on the octo. Lastly make sure the lines don't kink after the tanks is back on. It maybe easier to run longer lines from under the carbs and back up again. I used some compression springs on the outside of my fuel lines to keep them from kinking.

[BrianB]

Thanks guys. Thats good info and I should be able to doublecheck my work with that info.

Brian