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Rear Wheel Removal - 80 XS11MNS

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  • Rear Wheel Removal - 80 XS11MNS

    Anyone have any knowledge of the existence of a pictoral, anywhere/somewhere on the forum (or elsewhere), showing the removal of the rear wheel?
    I located one for the front wheel under 'Tire Replacement' in the "Wheels and Suspension" forum but, nothing for the rear wheel.
    Help!
    Ron
    1980 XS11 LG (Diablo)
    1980 XS11 G (Bagger)
    1978 XS11 G (White Knight)
    1978 XS11 G (Skeleton)
    2016 SS (S.S. Flyer)

  • #2
    What do you need to know about removing the rear wheel? It's pretty straightforward. You may need to remove the license plate to get the tire out, but I just lift up on my luggage rack, after removing the plate, and the wheel will roll out. You have to remove the caliper from it's mount, and to do that you need to remove the screw that holds the INNER brake pad to the caliper. That screw is accessed from the left side of the bike by using a long screwdriver, and going through the spokes of the wheel. Once all that is done, and the axle, caliper bracket, and torque plate removed, then just pull the wheel to the right and it will disengage the drive spines and drop to the ground. When re-assembling, make sure you lube the drive splines with some bearing grease.

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    • #3
      I pulled mine last night and didn't have to do anything but pull the axle bolt. After that, I moved the caliper and mount out of the way, lowered the front end for license plate clearance (had just taken off the front), pulled it off the splines, and rolled it out.
      '81 XS1100 SH

      Melted to the ground during The Valley Fire

      Sep. 12th 2015

      RIP

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      • #4
        I'm in the middle of it now.... however, I'm not quite sure from which side the axle is removed. The left side has a (lock)nut with a cotter pin through it and the right side has what I presume is the end of the axle lodged between a metal housing which is tightened with a 12mm bolt which runs through the outer end of the housing. (However, this may just be the housing for the axle and is to left as is )
        So far, I've removed the cotter pin and was able to both loosen and remove the locking bolt on the right side. However, I can't budge the (locking)nut on the left side. I've soaked it with a release fluid but, so far, that hasn't helped.

        Am I on the right track?

        Well, I better go out and clean up... getting dark... will continue with it tomorrow a.m., so any advice would be helpful and greatly appreciated.

        Ron

        (This bike is driving me wacko when trying to remove parts i.e. oil filter bolt, oil drain plug, etc. So many are seized and I don't always have the required means i.e. air tools...
        1980 XS11 LG (Diablo)
        1980 XS11 G (Bagger)
        1978 XS11 G (White Knight)
        1978 XS11 G (Skeleton)
        2016 SS (S.S. Flyer)

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        • #5
          What you've done so far is correct. The nut on the left side should come off fairly easily. You may need to use a cheater bar on your ratchet, but it will come of. The axle does inded come out the right side.

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          • #6
            Thanks John.

            I tried the nut on the left side again... still no luck... feels like it was welded on. I even tried tapping it, to gain some movement, using a short, small (diameter) iron bar... no luck.

            Providing that I am able to get it off, should the axle slide with relative ease out the right side and, without having to remove the locking bolt, or should it be removed entirely (to allow wider opening of the housing)?
            1980 XS11 LG (Diablo)
            1980 XS11 G (Bagger)
            1978 XS11 G (White Knight)
            1978 XS11 G (Skeleton)
            2016 SS (S.S. Flyer)

            Comment


            • #7
              You are on the right track, just keep at it. The nut on the left has to come off, even if it take a honking big cheater bar or an impact gun. The pinch bolt on the right does not have to come completely out to release its griup on the axle, just loosen it off. Once the big nut on the left is off, you can whack at the end of the axle with a hammer against a protective piece of hardwood to get the axle moving to the right. Stick a screwdriver through the holes in the right end of the axle to twist it back and forth and yank it out.
              Ken Talbot

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              • #8
                Thanks Ken. I wish I had an impact wrench. I almost bought one a few times when they were on sale but, at the time, couldn't justify the expense.

                Oh well, I'll keep at it.

                In my previous post I said... I even tried tapping it, to gain some movement I should have said that I tried whacking it! All that accomplished was a stripped fin on the bolt! Damn!
                1980 XS11 LG (Diablo)
                1980 XS11 G (Bagger)
                1978 XS11 G (White Knight)
                1978 XS11 G (Skeleton)
                2016 SS (S.S. Flyer)

                Comment


                • #9
                  I use an electric impact wrench that I bought on sale at Canadian Tire. 240lbs torque works great for most stuff the odd time a star screw will die rather than come out but they are easy to drill and replace.
                  http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1241/1480921818_241eade448_s.jpg

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                  • #10
                    If that main nut is that tight, I wonder if somebody might have use some loc-tite on it?? If they did, you might need to apply some heat to get it to break loose.
                    Ken Talbot

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Please ignore previous post

                      Administrator... please delete previous post. Thanks


                      Man vs Machine... Man conquers!

                      Last week when I was having difficulty removing the oil filter bolt and the oil drain plug, I tried using 3 different release fluids that I have, with no appreciable result. On one of my trips to the great Canadian tire store, I came across a product that I had never seen before .
                      With its promises of being different and abilities to do great things, coupled with my frustration in not being able to remove the bolts and desperation to do so, against my better judgement, I bought a can of this supposed 'Miracle Worker' (my quote) .
                      Following the directions (a rarity for me ) my first attack was on the oil filter bolt, where I soaked it to a point that it was crying out for a life saver , but I didn't give in! After repeating the procedure a couple more times and, letting it sit for a while (total time about 3 1/2 hrs.), I finally succeeded in moving the bolt about the thickness of two hairs. True, a minimal amount but, never-the-less, movement just the same . (It should be noted that, by the time I reached this stage, there was almost nothing left of the head of the bolt. It had transformed to a mismatched rectangle with a diagonal slice taken out of one end. Virtually nothing to grab hold of and, long past the use of a ratchet, wrench, vice-grips, "grab-it" removal tool, etc. ... all of which I had tried... ) I kept hitting it with a hammer and chisel, until it rotated about 1 full turn and I was able to grab hold of the outer ring around the head and, continue turning it out.
                      Although impressed, I wasn't convinced that this 'Miracle Worker' was the 'Saving Grace' in bolt removal.
                      It was now 1 down and 1 to go . Next, I attempted to remove the drain plug and was once again met with an immovable implement. So, I poured the 'miracle worker' to it, let it sit for a few minutes, then went at it. Nothing ! Repeated the process, again... nothing . As it was getting late, I gave it another good soaking and let it sit overnight.

                      Next morning I soaked it again with the 'Miracle Worker' and, after an hour or so and expecting the worst, I went back at it again. Attached the ratchet to it and... nothing. No movement what-so-ever. Soaked it again... and again... and again. Each time trying once again to loosen the bolt while trying not to pull the bike down on top of me (close a few times ! As the frustration level was increasing to astronomic heights, I was just about to pack it in when, while applying maximum force, something gave way. Damn, I thought, stripped another one ! As I was attempting to attach the ratchet to the bolt, it appeared that the bolt may have moved ever so slightly. Could it be possible ? Yes, it was and, it did... good I didn't strip it. (Actually, as it turned out, I did strip the damn thing!)

                      Could it be the 'Miracle Worker' again? As everything else I had tried, from beating the crap out of it, to burning (heating) it with a torch, didn't work, the only logical conclusion was that, in fact, it was indeed the 'Miracle Worker'

                      While I don't normally endorse products, when I find something that meets and, (rarely) exceeds my (high) expectations, I don't mind letting people know about it.

                      Now, while the majority of you reading this may already know about this product, it was the first time I had seen it and, though hesitant to buy it (it was 2 to 3 times the cost of other similar products), I must admit that I'm glad I did. And, although it took some time for it to do its thing, it none-the-less managed to un-freeze the bolts that no other products I tried, or other attempts made, could.

                      So, what is it, you ask? Out with it, you say.... what is the so-called 'Miracle Worker'... well, it's... damn, I forgot !

                      Just kidding It's called ... "Blaster PB - Penetrating Catalyst."
                      It works.
                      Last edited by xsilerating; 09-24-2007, 07:32 PM.
                      1980 XS11 LG (Diablo)
                      1980 XS11 G (Bagger)
                      1978 XS11 G (White Knight)
                      1978 XS11 G (Skeleton)
                      2016 SS (S.S. Flyer)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Been using P B'laster at work and home for years. I like it better that WD40, and Liquid Wrench. I like the label...kinda like 1920's snake oil labelling.

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                        • #13
                          kroil

                          I use Kroil when everything else fails

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