Yes another Electrical issue.

[Wbowen]

I am having some eletrical issues, I think the Regulator is bad, here is the detail.

Issue: 30 miles into my Ride to work, Twist the throttle and now power, approaching a stoplight, Backfired twice (sound like a 12 gauge shotgun), Engine cut off, Battery Completly Dead.

Current State: Once I got back to the house, I have been charging the battery for over 36 hours(using Battery Tendor) and still not fully charged, but starts and idles fine.

History: A few weeks ago I picked up the bike from the shop (New to me Exhaust). Relized after I got it home the Headlight was not working and the Tach was out. Proceded to trouble shoot and figured out the the Relay was not getting power. As a Temp Fix I made a jumper for the headlight relay so that i can ride again. I Don't really care about the Tach, I never look at it anyway. took the Bike for a 10 mile ride and every thing was fine. The next morning on my way to work it Died.

I believe that there is a issue with the Regulator, that would explain the Headlight and Tach quiting at the same time. Before spend any money on the regulator I want to make sure that the charging system is working correctly. What can i do to test the charging system. I have search the Forum for more info but I am having a hard time putting it all together.

The first thing that I am going to do tonight is to Check to any burnt wireing behind the fuses.

Please note I am not even up to the skill of a Home Garage mechanic, I pick up things quickly but I have a lot to learn.

Any additional information will be helpfull.

[Wbowen]

Update...

I just took at look at the connections behind the fuses and they all look fine, nothing looks burnt.

Thanks

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Wes,

If you'll look at the recent REGULATOR thread by DenzComp, you'll find links to the troubleshooting steps, both on Geezer's web site as well as in the tech tips! IF you don't have a multimeter, you can pick one up fairly cheaply at a local Harbor Freight/Northern Tool or even Radio Shack, Walmart even!

Then do the checks for the stator and coil, and then the reg/rect checks. Also, just check the voltage across the battery with the bike running at idle and again at 2500 rpm, if you are getting only 12 volts or less, then YES, it's not charging, and most commonly it's the reg/rect!

Denz didn't tell us whether he had checked his voltage, but IF his was frying his battery, then he was probably getting way over 15 volts at higher rpms due to the regulator not directing excess voltage to ground!

T.C.

[Wbowen]

Thanks, I will check to see the voltage across the battery and let you guys know what I find. However I will have to guestimate the 2500 RPM because my Tach is out as well.

Thanks

[DenzComp]

I never did check the voltage.

The battery I had was about a month old...I bought it brand new when I got the bike from my dad.

After it died I had to buy another one because that one was done for. I figured it was a bad battery to begin with.

I've only charged the newest one once and haven't put it on the bike since the last time it died after I thought I had the problem fixed.

I'm praying this one isn't fried too....there goes another 50 bucks if it is.

Geezer helped me narrow it down to the REG/REC. I just placed an order with him earlier this afternoon.

I'll update my post when it gets here and if it killed that other battery.

Fingers Crossed,
-Dennis

[fredintoon]

Hi Wes,
the tach is also a de facto alternator checking device. It works by counting pulses from the alternator. No alternator pulses = no rpm reading. I had a similar failure. No tach reading, no headlight brightening as the engine revved. Threw used replacement rotor, stator & reg/rect at the problem, no cure. Has to be the wiring harness, right? There's nothing else left to replace. Half way through removing the harness I realized two things.
1) I really should have re-wrapped the harness where the PO had been at it and had left those wires exposed.
2) Mr Stupid had trapped an exposed red wire under a coil bracket and the insulation had finally extruded away to ground out the current flow.
De-trapped & re-taped the wires and all was set to rights. Plus I have a stash of alternator parts for future use.
So first, check the wiring.

[skids]

Clean the contacts to ground real well. The VR makes ground with the frame at its mounting location. Scrap the paint and reattach. There is a strap from the engine to the frame by the battery, and there is a strap from the negetive battery terminal to the frame. I suspect you are right about the VR. If your VR is working, it will make a magnetic field when the key is on. The rectumfryer part of the VR just converts three phase AC into DC current.