What the........

[Stralya]

My first Oil Change.

I've only done about 40kms since the rebuild but I thought that since at least some of the oil in it could be as old as the dinosaurs that created it, I decided to do a proper oil change.

I had to remove my four into ones before I could get to anything. I removed the oil filter housing and then the 'real' sump plug. What a beautiful thing to see. I solid stream of oil flowing into my ex chip frying pan.

I installed yet another new oil filter and put everything back together. Three point five litres of sae 30 went in.

My question, and the real reason for this post is this. Given that it's done those 40 odd k's with goodness knows what circulating through it, when should I go ahead and change the oil to the normal stuff (20w50) Should I do it 500k's after the rebuild or 500k's from now?

Dan
Forgiven Boob.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dan,

My Owner's Manual talks about 1,000 km(600 miles) !

The first 150 km, avoid rpms above 4k! Allow 5-10 minutes cooling time after each 1hour of operation.

150-500km, avoid over 5k, NO FULL THROTTLE
500-1000km, avoid over 6k, no prolonged full throttle.
1000+km avoid 7k and no long sustained full throttle!

It also states to change the oil at 1000k!

So...40km more shouldn't matter much when you're taking it to 1000km before the oil change!
T.C.

[petejw]

just out of curiosity,
did u put in exhaust gaskets
when u redid the exhaust.

[Stralya]

Yep!

Brand new exhaust gaskets pete, and I fixed that problem with the stud so all we need to do now is adjust the float height and replace the fork springs. Those pipe gaskets arrived from speed and sport as well but I think I'll stick with the four into ones, I just love that centre stand. I'll have to get a set of exhaust gaskets each time I change the oil from now on because I have to drop the pipes to get to the elusive and up until recently, unknown oil drain plug but that's cool with me.

OK TC, 1000kms it is, although on a few occasions I've let it go up to 5000rpms, but only for an instant. I've tried to avoid constant rpm, trying to move smoothly through the rev range.

I accidently replicated that wheelie you did in that DVD you sent me. My sphinkter blew kisses! I can't believe the extra power, it's like chalk and cheese but I spose that's because of the wear on the engine before the rebuild.

I changed the middle gear oil as well with hypoid gear oil as recommended in the manual and by you. The old stuff looked as clean and clear as the new, I guess that means all is well therein?

Thanks again,
Dan
Future Guru.

[TopCatGr58]

Alternative Drain Plug

Hey Dan,

Do you have to take the pipes off to change the filter??

If NOT, then I remember someone posting about drilling/tapping a drain hole/plug for the filter cup to reduce the mess when taking it off, and I would think you could do the same thing to the main oil/tranny pan, relocating another drain hole so you wouldn't have to drop the pipes!? JAT!

Enjoy, I'm sure you'll roll thru those first 1000 kms pretty quickly!
T.C.

[mro]

Hi Future Guru Dan

Now that the lost oil has been found and the bikes been run to the first oil chang, have a question I would have asked pggg but did not want some techno detailed chart/graph long winded post.
When you pull the "oil drain plug" and the oil goes into the bucket... does it swirl CW or CCW (since you'all live down under does it swirl backwards?


mro

[Stralya]

Too clean to swirl

Hey mro,

It just poured out in a steady stream!

However....

Water down the old plug hole in the sink goes the opposite way yours does.

TC,
I don't have to drop the pipes to change the oil filter, the housing begins to touch the pipes when it's almost off but only slightly so no worries there.

The collector however, covers the oil drain plug entirely so when I change the oil, off come the pipes.

I'll ask my local guru pete about drilling/tapping another drain hole but it only takes me about 10 minutes to drop the pipes and remove both the oil drain plug and the oil filter housing and at 10 bucks a set of exhaust gaskets, I'd need to consider my options here. I also need to drop the pipes to change the middle gear oil so I guess I'll put up with a little inconvenience rather than drill two holes but I'll see what pete thinks.

[pggg]

Just for mro I did a scientific study just now in my sink, the water swirls any which way, both clockwise and anti-clockwise, and if ya swirl the water around with your hand it'll drain down in whatever direction ya swirl it anyway stral those diaphragms are on their way, the vac-holes are 0.5mm wider than normal, would have sent normal ones but those ones have the better rubbers, best to use all 4 as a set as the slides'll lift a bit quicker than usual

[Stralya]

Thanks PG

Will do. Just took the Swuftcucle for a ride after the oil change. It's marvelous what a difference new exhaust gaskets make!

With those vac holes being larger, would I need to do anything with my float levels or jets or anything?

Dan
Official Beer Taster for the Wallabies.

[79XS11F]

When I did my 1179 kit I got my information from a guy at the local bike shop who has done a few of these rebuilds on different bikes. he told me ...
Fire the engine up and bring it to full operating temp. Let it cool down COMPLETELY and re-torque the head nuts (on my bike they did in deed move that tiny little bit)
Use the bike for 500 KM and then when completely cooled off torque those head nuts AGAIN.
Keep the RPMs moving around and for sure don't cruse around with the RPMs at the same level.
NO red lining it until after that 500 KM ring break in.

Same deal at 1000 KM while your changing out that oil... Re-torque the head nuts.
Rob

[petejw]

Dan,
did that quiet it down a bit putting the gaskets on,
did it stop the backfiring on deceleration?
hows it running overall?
give me a buzz 2morrow .

[petejw]

just to add,
when ever u retorque the head bolts
always readjust ur cam chain.