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  • need tuning

    MY attempt at synching the carbs sucked.I used the 4 valve splitter from the fish tank and a vacuam guage.The ploblem was air leaking on the fish tank valve.TRIED the vacuam guage by itself guage just flutters.HEARD you pinch the tube with a bolt and hose clamp.I'M not clear on the balancing screws.between 1-2 and 3-4 are for the balancing left to right.is the center screw on the top the idle or is it balance as well.I know the bottom knob is the idle adjustment.The only sychronizing tech tip is with mercury not a vacuam guage.


    blackdawg
    BLACKDAWG

  • #2
    You will need to pinch the tube, or put a plug with a SMALL hole in it to keep the fluttering down on the gauge. The screws on the top front of the carbs are the idle mixture screws, and should be set after the initial sync. You will then have to readjust the sync, but it will give you a smooth running machine.
    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75
    This is the link to the sync, and it needs to be followed. Most of the information is available by going to the MAIN PAGE, at XS11.com, and then scroll down to the maintenance/carbs section.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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    • #3
      tuning

      the bottom knob in between 3 and two is the idle screw and the top screw is the sycro between each set 4 and 3 and 1 and 2.thats right i hope ?
      BLACKDAWG

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      • #4
        Bottom knob is in deed the idle set. It opens and closes the butterfly's. The spring loaded screws between the carbs in line with the butterfly shafts are in deed the sync screws. sync them is pairs and then the pairs together. Follow the instructions at the provided link or in your manual carefully and your good to go. I find that while doing this it is a good idea to make very small adjustments at a time and wait a minute for the adjustment to stabilize before adjusting again. I also give the throttle a little twist between each adjustment to ensure that everything returns to its static position after an adjustment. you can change the carb vac by just pushing down on the screws so NO downward pressure when making the adjustment. A light touch is best.
        Rob
        KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

        1978 XS1100E Modified
        1978 XS500E
        1979 XS1100F Restored
        1980 XS1100 SG
        1981 Suzuki GS1100
        1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
        1983 Honda CB900 Custom

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        • #5
          Dawg here's how to setup your single vac-gauge if you do have a 4-way aquarium valve, the damper valve to the gauge is important, without a 4-way valve you can still simply plug in the gauge one manifold at a time, but you need to cap off the other 3 manifolds each time. Waste of time if the valves are leaking! You need the fuel tank propped upwards at the front to get at the sync screws for adjusting



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          • #6
            PGGGGGG, that is a good write-up and pix for a tech tip.

            Originally posted by pggg
            Dawg here's how to setup your single vac-gauge if you do have a 4-way aquarium valve, the damper valve to the gauge is important, without a 4-way valve you can still simply plug in the gauge one manifold at a time, but you need to cap off the other 3 manifolds each time. Waste of time if the valves are leaking! You need the fuel tank propped upwards at the front to get at the sync screws for adjusting

            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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            • #7
              need tuning

              the funny thing is that my idle knob is directlly below the middle synch screw.Also can i just use my single guage and pinch the tube with a hose clamp till the needle stops fluttering.I want to start simple.
              Originally posted by skids
              PGGGGGG, that is a good write-up and pix for a tech tip.

              BLACKDAWG

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              • #8
                Hi Skids, yep it's a cheap enough sync setup, about 12 bucks for a gauge and a few more bucks for hoses and air-valves. Dawg, well you can just squeeze the hose with finger and thumb each time, but it's a hassle squeezing and adjusting screws simultaneously, way easier to shove in a single aquarium valve as the damper, or even a slightly squished screw-type fuel hose clamp does the same thing. Set it so the gauge needle flickers only 2 or 3mm

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                • #9
                  need tuning

                  I think i will buy for screw type hose clamps aut place doesn"t have the damper valve in.
                  BLACKDAWG

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                  • #10
                    need tuning

                    attepted synch once again did each vacuam starting from left to right.That would be facing the rear of the bike.balanced 1 to 2 then 3 to 4 fiddled back and forth couldn't get them the same.then adjusted them left to right.RUNS worse idles too high ,little bit of a pain starting this morning.wants to stall when you first let the first little bit of clutch.I'M thinking about sending it in.I spent two hours doing this.I'M i missing something.I'M USING A SINGLE VACUAM GUAGE.
                    BLACKDAWG

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                    • #11
                      1 to 2 then 3 to 4
                      Makes a difference which order you adjust em.

                      #3 does not adjust...
                      so start by adjust #4 to #3
                      Then adjust #1 to #2
                      Then adjust #2 to #3

                      Only #1 and #4 have independent adjustments. #2 adjustment screw adjusts both one and two. #4 only #4

                      With a single gauge need to re-check #3 (not to adjsust it but to insure that if it has changed when adjusting the others that the others are syncked to it's new reading)


                      mro
                      To restrit vac hose I use a small hose clamp and bolt. Tighten the hose clamp which then squeezes the bolt aginst vac hose. When needle calms done it's tight enough.

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                      • #12
                        need tuning

                        the one i found hard is 1-2 and 3 -4 were easy to make even.IT WAS THE CENTER SYNCH FOR BOTH THE SIDES TO EVEN TO EACH OTHER.AND TO GET THE RIGHT IDLE AS MY IDLE IS 1500 ON THE TACH WHERE IT WAS 1150 BEFORE.
                        BLACKDAWG

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                        • #13
                          Dawg, if the idle rises or falls while you're syncing the carbs, keep tweaking the main idle screw to keep the revs consistent, hit the kill switch every time you swap hoses over when using a single gauge setup or if you think the motor's getting a bit too hot, eventually you 'll find you can sync the carbs quickly within a few short minutes, it's just a matter of practice

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                          • #14
                            need tuning

                            The balancing is done runs nice and fine now.even at 5 lbs across.The only bad thing battery is low wouldn't turn over this morning.I will put a good charge on it and monitor the battery from there.The bike runs and idles nice idling around 1000.Have a small hole in the header thats where the popping is coming from.I'M GOING TO PATCH IT FOR NOW AND REPLACE IT NEXT YEAR.thanks for the tips again guys,i'm learning.I have rebuilt the carbs myself now i had balanced them.Very proud right now.


                            BLACKDAWG
                            BLACKDAWG

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