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  • charging Question

    Im having trouble with my bike holding a charge. New battery, connections look good ,tach working ,directionals dont work under 3000 rpms. I have not yet checked anything with a volt meter as I do not have one yet. I was wondering if any one here is familiar with the replacement fuse box that partsnmore sells. I replaced old fuse box with this replacement before I found this site and T.C.s fuse boxes The partsnmore replacement has a 20 amp Main and a 10 amp directional Our bikes, or at least the 79 has a 30 amp main and a 20 amp directional. Could this be my problem? I figured if any thing I would have blown the fuses. I will replace fuse box with T.C.s anyway. Could it be the regulator? Electrical problems are not my thing. BTW GREAT SITE, I have learned alot from reading these posts. There are a lot of knowlegable people here. If it weren't for this site my first parts bike would have been just that and so would my 2nd and my 3rd Hey wait a second....... Awesome job guys.
    Jeff

  • #2
    If your not blowing fuses that's not your issue. Fuses do not limit current they simply BLOW when their rating is exceeded. There's not much you can really do until you get a Volt / amp meter and a manual to run some simple tests.
    Rob
    KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

    1978 XS1100E Modified
    1978 XS500E
    1979 XS1100F Restored
    1980 XS1100 SG
    1981 Suzuki GS1100
    1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
    1983 Honda CB900 Custom

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    • #3
      Thanks Rob for your reply. Thats kinda what I figured. I do have a Clymers manual and I will purchase a volt meter tomorrow and do some tests I suspect the regulator. Thanks again
      Jeff

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      • #4
        Could be

        Could be the volt reg. I know 1st year I had my 78, the reg. went on mine, at the time couldnt get one to replace it, ended up using one from an 850 Yamaha, it solved the problem.
        Bruce
        Bruce Doucette
        Phone #1 902 827 3217

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        • #5
          Hey Jeff,

          You'll want to get a multimeter, volts, ohms at least. They are fairly cheaply found now at RS as well other sites like Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc.!

          Under the gastank is the REG/RECT, you'll want to check the connections for it, and it's frame contacts, clean, dielectric grease, etc.. There are testing steps in the tech tips regarding troubleshooting the charging system. One thing you can do without a gauge is see IF you have a magnetic field around the alt cover with a feeler gauge, if it sticks then you're getting a field necessary for creating a charge. IF it doesn't, then there is a possible problem with the field coils. But please read the tips, I'm no electrical guru.
          T.C.
          T. C. Gresham
          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
          History shows again and again,
          How nature points out the folly of men!

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          • #6
            Thanks for the reply guys. I will get the multimeter like you suggested T.C. I did check the connections under tank at reg /rec as well as connections behind fuse box and in headlight I didnt thik to do the feeler gauge test at alt cover. Good idea will check I guess I assumed everything at alt was ok because the tach worked and the headlight does brighten as I increase rpms but probabley not as much as it should. Thanks again
            Jeff

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            • #7
              If all else is fine, and your battery is losing charge when it sits, you should check to see if there is a leak when the key is off.

              You can do this with a 12v light bulb. Just undo one of the battery cables, and touch the bulb to the battery post. Touch the cable to the spot on the bottom of the bulb. If the bulb lights, you have a power leak somewhere in the system.

              This will give you a starting point.
              Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

              '05 ST1300
              '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

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              • #8
                Problem solved I picked up a multimeter ran tests and all pointed to reg/rec. Just to be sure I swaped it to bike#1 and same test results. I wonder if theres anything I could have done to damage it when I replaced fuse box. So new or used? I know there is a member who makes new ones Ill do some searching Thanks to all
                Jeff

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                • #9
                  Hey Jeff,

                  If you'll go to the parts for sale, the STICKY thread lists him and other members that make parts for the Xs11. The OEM R/R is not very robust, neither will the OEM replacement be, BUT Geezer's unit is made with much stronger components, and provides a stronger charge at lower rpms! And it's the same or cheaper than the OEM....!

                  Doubt that you did anything to fry it when replacing fuseblock. I had one fry after adding too many aux tail/brake lights back in my ignorant youth before I knew the limitations of the XS11's charging system!
                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

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                  • #10
                    Highly recomend the one form Geezer. It made a pretty big difference in how much power I got. And it is cheaper than OEM. I believe he offers a life time warranty.
                    78E ... Gone but not forgotten
                    2006 Kawasaki Concours....just getting to know it

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