Coils

[roach25681]

No spark coming from coils. There is power going to the coils, but no spark what so ever coming out. I even took the end cap off one of the plug wires, cut it a little, stripped it a little, and still couldnt get it to carry any current. Bike sat for probably 5 years before I started rebuilding it. Any options?

[manshack_one]

I would start here:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...=&threadid=583

If that doesn't get it there's a picture of how to ohm out the coils for testing in a clymers manual.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Roach,
I found your previous thread, am quoting it here so folks can see what you've done electrically in the past:

A few weeks ago, while redoing my wiring harness and getting rid of all the sensors and relays Im not going to need on my 1980 Standard, I accidentally removed the ballast resistor and the two wires that run to it.

Uses two red/white wires.
One goes from resistor to coils, and also connects to TCI.
Other starts at resistor, connects to engine stop switch right control, also to starter relay and to TCI.
mro

The FAQ tip Manshack posted is good, so IF you have a meter, you'll want to check things out, including the plug caps...don't assume they are good. There is a resistor in them and the contacts can corrode and prevent continuity, you can verify with an Ohmeter, should be around 5K or so, but if a lot higher or NO reading=open then it's bad!

Also, you can take a jumper wire and supply power to the coils and then cut power, and see if you see a spark. IF so, then the triggering system for the coils isn't working properly! TCI or PU coils and all related wires are suspect!

You say you have power to the coils, have you checked it while cranking the engine?? IF you didn't get it wired right, the power is routed around the ballast resistor and sent directly to the coils for a full 12 volts for stronger starting, this is controlled by the TCI. And then once it starts, the TCI cuts off that power lead, and routes thru the resistor to keep from burning the coils up!

Let us know what you find!
T.C.

[manshack_one]

Here's what Clymers has to say about testing coils:

http://home.valornet.com/download/xs...s-CoilTest.pdf

Report back what you find out!

[manshack_one]

Oooopss,

http://home.valornet.com/manshack_on...s-CoilTest.pdf

[roach25681]

The plug caps are brand new from MikesXS. I thought I had accidentally removed my ballast resistor wires but when I went to hook the new one up I realized I had left the factory wires there, just threw away the ballast. So I just plugged it right back in. All I had to work with today was a test light, and with key on I have power to the coils, during cranking I have power to the coils. I'll have to see if I can scrounge up an Ohmeter at the shop tomorrow. I know theres at least one there but finding it wont be fun. Im hoping I dont have to buy new coils because it will be a couple of weeks before I can spare the cash and this, and a stuck float needle are the only things keeping me off the road at this time. My goal has been to have it running by my birthday...and Friday is coming up quick.


BTW...TopCat...that paint scheme I told you about turned out great! Now if I can just get my digital camera to take a decent picture!

[roach25681]

Almost forgot.....TopCat....those velocity stacks that I messed with for an hour the first night and could never get them on....well I gave up on them after that. But before reinstalling the carbs on the bike I decided Id give them another shot and I'll be damned if they didnt all slide right on. I dont know if I smoked crack that night and didnt remember or what but obviously you were correct!

[roach25681]

Almost forgot.....TopCat....those velocity stacks that I messed with for an hour the first night and could never get them on....well I gave up on them after that. But before reinstalling the carbs on the bike I decided Id give them another shot and I'll be damned if they didnt all slide right on. I dont know if I smoked crack that night and didnt remember or what but obviously you were correct!

[Jerry]

Cheap meter

A side note...

All I had to work with today was a test light,

If you keep your eyes open for sales, you can get a cheap meter like this for $4.00:


Meter was on sale from MCM, www.mcminone.com. I am on their promotion e-mail list, don't buy a lot but do get small items from time to time from them. Sorry to say this was a 1-day deal, sale is over but still not badly priced at around $10.00. Model is 72-7940.

Specs:
AC voltage 2 ranges 0 - 200, 0 - 300 volts
DC voltage 3 ranges, 0 - 20, 0 - 200, 0- 300
Max DC current is only 200mA
Resistance 5 ranges, 200, 2000, 20K, 200K, 2000K
Diode check, 1.5 and 9v battery check, square wave output, reads negative as well as positive.

Not a great meter, but for $4.00 worth having in yout tool box!

[Snow]

Removing sensors and switches? Make sure you have the tip over switch properly bypassed if you bypassed it... it'll stop all spark if it's broken or mounted incorrectly (like I put mine in upsidedown after a complete teardown and rebuild)

[randy]

er...NO!

If you connect the leads of the tipover switch together, you WILL kill all spark. That's how it works, it shorts when it's activated.

If you simply unplug it, all will be OK, until you tip over. Then it won't stop running until you kill it manually or the carbs overflow and kill it.

[Snow]

And disconnecting would be properly bypassed, no?

[roach25681]

I found an Ohmeter at the shop today but didnt get a chance to use it. I'll have to check the tip over switch tomorrow as I know it is still installed, just moved to a different area and I may have mounted it upside down or sideways. I removed all wiring for all turn signals, reserve lighting unit, etc. Nothing but a headlight and tail light on the bike. King Sportster tank so no tank wiring. No speedo, or tach or cluster wiring. Bare bones.

[DiverRay]

If you are going bare bones, just remove the switch. you don't need the wires, and it will clean it up some more. JMHO

[roach25681]

Well heres what I found out today. Im an idiot. Although I have assumed that for years now. I had the tipover switch installed sideways. I cut out the double backbone and installed a single tube so all of my mounts were gone. I ended up installing it sideways. Flipped it right side up and she started firing. Took it out completely and after fiddling for an hour or so she fired right up and ran. So this problem is fixed. Although now Ive found I have a clutch problem.