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  • Mysterious brake drag?

    Have you ever rebuilt your calipers only to find they are dragging again the next day?

    You won't find the fix in the manual but the problem was most likely caused by you when you thought you were only doing a good job.

    The problem is the sleeve and rubber bushing that the caliper slide side to side on. The rubber bushing has some sort of grease in side of it and many just clean it out and regrease but here's where the problem lies. The manual doesn't tell you that the rubber bushing is natural rubber and intolerant of mineral based lubes. If you grease it with axle grease, it'll be stuck by morning.

    The fix is to extract the sleeve then the rubber bushing from the caliper, take them inside and wash them thoroughly with dish soap and water as hot as you can stand working with. Scrub the bushing out 2 or 3 times and dry with a paper towel. If any grease comes out on the paper towel, wash them again. Also thoroughly scrub the sleeve and dry them.

    Now for the lube. Go to the nearest gun store and buy a bottle of RCBS cartridge case lube. Be sure and get the stuff in the bottle and not the tube. This stuff is a vegetable based lube that is more of a grease in thickness than oil and is an industrial version of KY jelly. Don't get and funny ideas now, this is for your brakes.

    Insert the rubber bushings back into the calipers and squirt in some of the lube. Make sure there's enough to coat the inside of the bushing and a little extra. Coat the outside of the sleeve with lube and reinsert into the bushing making sure you take care to get the lip of the seal in the groove on the sleeve.

    Re assemble as usual and the drag from the caliper sliders will be gone.

    Geezer
    (and you guys thought only I did electrical systems.)
    Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

    The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

  • #2
    They might be over pumped too, bleed em' and pump them up smooth

    Comment


    • #3
      Or, you can go to the auto parts store and buy a tube of 'silicone disc brake lubricant'. This thick stuff is purpose-built for lubing caliuper slides and bushings, etc. The funnt part is the caution printed on the tube that tells you to keep the lubricant away from the disc and the friction side of the pads. I can only imagine the pucker factor that would cause!
      Ken Talbot

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      • #4
        "Geezer, didn't I yell at you last year for doing the same thing?"

        All that info stored in that knobby head of yours...
        Yet, you only share your wisdom what, maybe once a year?
        A tidbit here... a tidbit there...
        "But I thought everybody knew this stuff... that it's common knowledge."
        No Geezer, it's not.
        You need to make a pot o' coffee... sit down somewhere quiet, and write out all your "words of wisdom" for us mechanical tadpoles.
        "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

        Comment


        • #5
          I wish I would have known this two days ago when I had the rear caliper apart.

          If Its not binding I will probably leave well enough alone.

          Also found out that I can swap my XS750 rear master cyclinder into my 1100. Works like a champ.
          Trying not to offend since Aug 28, 2010

          Disclaimer: I am an idiot. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.
          Owner of:
          1979 XS1100F (The Pig)
          140 mains
          45 pilot jets
          Floats at 24mm
          Running Rich

          "Arrogant, delusional tyrants can't be stopped by earnest words and furrowed brows. Action, strong bold action coming from a position of strength and determination, is the only effective deterrent." -Mitt Romney

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: "Geezer, didn't I yell at you last year for doing the same thing?"

            I sat down to write a book once and my mind went blank. I write this stuff at 1:00am after having to clean up the aftermath of someone else's handiwork...

            The best I can do is to dribble out this info as I think of it...

            Geezer

            Originally posted by prometheus578
            All that info stored in that knobby head of yours...
            Yet, you only share your wisdom what, maybe once a year?
            A tidbit here... a tidbit there...
            "But I thought everybody knew this stuff... that it's common knowledge."
            No Geezer, it's not.
            You need to make a pot o' coffee... sit down somewhere quiet, and write out all your "words of wisdom" for us mechanical tadpoles.
            Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

            The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by rman
              If Its not binding I will probably leave well enough alone.
              The caliper won't bind but it won't fully release because it can't slide back.

              One good thing is that this can be fixed without pulling the caliper. You can pull the sleeve out with needle nose pliers and then remove the rubber bushing with your fingers.

              Geezer
              Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

              The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

              Comment


              • #8
                "But I thought everybody knew this stuff... that it's common knowledge."
                Easy to assume that this is common knowledge, every automotive caliper I've ever encountered (except the XS Specials) uses this kind of slider mechanism. Should be cleaned and lubed as part of every brake job.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Now I am confused. My manual says to lube the piston to sleeve seal with fresh break fluid. I just don't dry them off after they have been soaked in fresh break fluid for the minimum time stated. I think it's somewhere around 15 minutes.
                  Rob
                  KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                  1978 XS1100E Modified
                  1978 XS500E
                  1979 XS1100F Restored
                  1980 XS1100 SG
                  1981 Suzuki GS1100
                  1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                  1983 Honda CB900 Custom

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    .

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi,thought I would chime in.I had the brakes drag,even after taking the calipers apart and lubing the slider bolts and bushings.I eventually determined that the master cylinder(front) would build pressure from sitting,which it did.Instead of monkeying with drilling out the plugged return hole,I ordered from PartsNmore a new master cylinder for 75.00.My reservoir looked sad anyways.That fixed the brake drag and works like a champ!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        "Poor PGGG...."

                        I guess his computer broke.
                        Or...
                        maybe he's trying to say you should use DOT1 brake fluid.
                        Or...
                        He's hard to understand when he's on his period.
                        "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          it was a microdot containing video of various scantily attired females demonstrating a strip and overhaul of XS11 calipers.. but I realized no-one would be interested ...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            It was difficult, but I manuvered the mouse pointer on it and double clicked. I saw everything! I am going to visit the calipers just to touch them to see if they are still warm...

                            Originally posted by pggg
                            it was a microdot containing video of various scantily attired females demonstrating a strip and overhaul of XS11 calipers.. but I realized no-one would be interested ...
                            Skids (Sid Hansen)

                            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 79XS11F
                              Now I am confused. My manual says to lube the piston to sleeve seal with fresh break fluid. I just don't dry them off after they have been soaked in fresh break fluid for the minimum time stated. I think it's somewhere around 15 minutes.
                              Rob
                              Are we talking about the same thing here? I mean the sleeve that the 8mm bolt goes through to hold the caliper to the bracket. The caliper floats side to side on these sleeve with a rubber bushing.

                              Geezer
                              Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

                              The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

                              Comment

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