Cylinder removal... again.

[trbig]

I have been searching, trying to find a certain thread about cylinder removal, but couldn't find it. Someone had talked one time of removing the head, stuffing rags in the cylinders, then re-installing the head somehow and using the force of the pistons pushing the rags against the head to raise the cylinders off the base gasket. Does anyone else remember this? How would you attach the head back to the cylinders so they lift as one?

Am I imagining I read this, or was it someone trying to think of a way to do this? I am about to have to remove the cylinders on this motor and my spare, and don't want to tear up the cooling fins like I did on the last spare one I had. Ended up really destroying that one. Didn't have that many problems with the first one, but this last one was REALLY stuck on there. I've read the posts about cleaning the crud around the studs and such. This one just had a base gasket with some kind of glue also. I would love to try to have the pistons raise it up from the inside for me somehow... or at least get it started.

Like I said.. I've read about the other methods.. just wondering about this one. I have even thought about designing something with several "Fingers" that would slide into the space between cooling fins... grabbing several fins at once at the pry points to spread out the pressure... and maybe having 4 of these around the motor connected by a cable that's loose enough to go over the top of the frame and across the top of a small bottle jack stood up there. Just jack up the jack and up comes the cylinder?? Does that make any sense to anyone? Maybe need to draw a picture...

Tod

[Ken Talbot]

There are two bolts, one at the front and one at the back, where the head bolts just to the cylinders. In theory, you might be able to try your method to pop the whole works off of the block with rags stuffed in above the pistons.

Of course, you'd want to remove the cams and the valves first, and be absolutely sure you had all the rest of the mounting bolts out. Maybe putting some tension on this way, along with some careful prying, would be anough to get your glued-down cylinders off.

Good luck.

[prometheus578]

Try to saw through the base gaskets with various thickness' of guitar string. Start pounding several thin putty knives between the cylinder and the case and slowly, gently tap in some thin chisels. Work your way around, don't stay in one spot.
There is no easy method....

[TomB]

I've had good results with a tube type hole saw.

The barrels get stuck onto the studs with all the years of crud and a bit of corrosion (usually the front studs), the tube hole saw fits between the stud and the barrels freeing the barrels.

One of the lads in Finland used this method successfully.

Click

[trbig]

OK... Brain fart. You're right Ken, I completely forgot about the two on the bottom side. I think I'm going to try this method. I realized that the cams would be out when I tried it. I'll try it on #1 or #4 first to see if I can get one side to budge, then to the other.

If that doesn't work, I'll try Pro's suggestion. My son has recently picked up the guitar. Ya think he'd notice just one itty bitty string gone?? lol. I could just do the same crap they have always done. "Who broke the lamp??"... as they both shrug their shoulders.

Tod

[mro]

I completely forgot about the two on the bottom side. I think I'm going to try this method.

With the amount of force needed to break em loose...bet your going to break one if not both.

Last couple times I took cylinders off. Removed head, then used up about half a can of liquid wrench on the studs. Kept em wet for 24 hours before sticking a breaker bar in the front part that is reinforced for it.

Been meaning to take a pic of the breaker bar I use. Just happens to be the "perfect size" to get in there and allows for applying a lot of force with out screwing up the fins.

originally posted by Prom
There is no easy method....

What prometheus578 said...


mro

[prometheus578]

"How uplifting!"

I'll try it on #1 or #4 first to see if I can get one side to budge, then to the other.

As someone who's broken off a chunk of aluminum in the area of those bolts, I wouldn't recommend doing that.
But if you're gonna do it anyway, I'd do cylinders #2 and #3. More direct upward force... less energy expended trying to warp/flex the cylinder. Force applied close to those two studs is better than force applied further away. More direct.
The area of those two studs, if using #1 and #4 would be a fulcrum area, increasing the likelyhood of stress and something snapping off.

[TomB]

The tube holesaw tackles the root cause without resorting to brute force therefore reducing the risk of breakage. It is an engineering solution.

Good luck with forcing the barrels off

[DiverRay]

Tom,
What size hole saw did you use? We have a HARD time getting Metric over here, so we need to convert. Also, what brand is the saw? I know it would need to be about 6" or 120 CM long.

[TomB]

Whoa my friend

Its not a proper hole saw that you can buy, its just a piece of tube with teeth filed onto it and used by hand.

Its so simple you've got to be dumb not to try it before resorting to force.

I linked to the UK site where Shappers had the same problem with barrel removal and I mentioned to him the tube saw.

Heres the link again Click if you look through you can see Shappers photo of the one he made but if you're lucky enough you can find a ready made piece of tube the right size and just file teeth on, when they wear out just file more.

You'll need patience, but when its gonna save you breaking the head and barrels isn't it worth a little time.

Tom

[DiverRay]

Thanks, Tom. I'm going to use that tip!!!