Cam tensioner problems

[Bigfoot]

I recently adjusted my cam tensioner for the first time since I have owned the bike (running for about a year). It was starting to get a little noisy so I figured it was time. Sounded great when it was done. Rode the bike about 60 miles and it started making a racket like it was real loose. Adjusted it again, same result. Seems like it needs to be adjusted on a daily basis now. Is the tensioner shot? Did I hose it up somehow? It seems to be a pretty simple process so I don't see what I could have done wrong. I would appreciate any help with this.

Thanks

[skids]

Re: Cam tensioner problems

Maybe it is time for a cam chain? Make double sure that the tesnioner stopper bolt is not stripped and is not sticking during the adjustment.

Originally posted by Bigfoot
I recently adjusted my cam tensioner for the first time since I have owned the bike (running for about a year). It was starting to get a little noisy so I figured it was time. Sounded great when it was done. Rode the bike about 60 miles and it started making a racket like it was real loose. Adjusted it again, same result. Seems like it needs to be adjusted on a daily basis now. Is the tensioner shot? Did I hose it up somehow? It seems to be a pretty simple process so I don't see what I could have done wrong. I would appreciate any help with this.

Thanks

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Bigfoot,

Like Skids says, sounds like the housing may be stripped, so that the securing bolt isn't maintaining enough pressure to keep the tensioner plunger in one place, and it gets pushed back outwards away from the engine creating the slack again!?

You may want to do the alignment procedure, and then loosen and remove the bolt completely to inspect the threads in the housing, look for shavings on the bolt as well. If the threads look good, put it back in, do you have an inch/pound torque wrench?

Secure it, and then remove the whole housing, and inspect how far the plunger is out from the body, measure it. Then loosen the locknut/bolt, and remove and remove plunger, inspect it for burrs. IF the flat locking surface is not flat due to wear from the locking bolt, you may need to file/grind it flat! Put it back in to the depth you measured, and see how much is sticking into the housing at the locking bolt location. You can then determine if there's enough of the plunger flat surface for the locking bolt to sit against, cause when you are essentially at the tip end of the plunger, then the chain is stretched too far!

IF the threads appear stripped, then you can either helicoil or tap for a larger bolt, or get a replacement, ebay or Yamaha/bikebandit!
T.C.

[Bigfoot]

Thanks for the input, I will take it apart today and inspect it. I will post what I find out.