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  • Sticky Throttle

    When the bike is cool, the throttle returns to the "rest" position like it should. After putting a few miles on, when I release the throttle it doesnt want to back off. Eventually it will will slowly slow down but I think it should be faster. I do have a lock mechinsm on it but I have loosened it almost all the way up. That also doesnt make sense of it being to tight because it works well when cold.
    Any ideas???
    Thanks
    1981 XS 1100SH (Big Red)
    89 Club Car (ELECTRIC so it doesnt have a damn carb, thank God)

  • #2
    Lube it

    Get a can of lube and try that to make sure it isn't something easy. If that doesn't do the trick trace the the cable all the way to the carbs and make sure something is not kinked.
    2 - 80 LGs bought one new
    81 LH
    02 FXSTB Nighttrain
    22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
    Jim

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    • #3
      This may sound like a newby, but how does the cable come off the throttle? I know where it attaches to the carbs but I'd rather not take it off there and try to force the lube up.
      1981 XS 1100SH (Big Red)
      89 Club Car (ELECTRIC so it doesnt have a damn carb, thank God)

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      • #4
        Yes it does but you will have to split the control housing to get at it and that's what you want to do because the lube will flow downward a lot easier then upward. I use one of those cable lube vises to do my cables. They work great.
        rob
        KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

        1978 XS1100E Modified
        1978 XS500E
        1979 XS1100F Restored
        1980 XS1100 SG
        1981 Suzuki GS1100
        1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
        1983 Honda CB900 Custom

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        • #5
          "You need to be more accurate in your descriptions..."

          Doesn't sound like throttle cable at all. More like vacuum leak or carbs not synched.
          Do you mean the "throttle grip" doesn't return to it's resting position?(You release the throttle and the grip slowly moves back...)
          Or do you mean you release the throttle grip, the grip spins to a stop, but the RPM stays high?

          If you're gonna lube the cable, remove it from the grip assy. Make a funnel of some sort around it and fill it with cable lube. Pull the cable in and out till the lube works it's way down and you can see it drip under the carb.
          Do not use WD40 for a lube as it soon evaporates.
          Do not use duct tape to form a funnel as the lube will disolve the adhesive, carry it down into the cable, and when it dries, you have a gummy mess in there.
          (You can make a small funnel from aluminum foil and duct tape that to the cable... just don't make the funnel from the tape.
          "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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          • #6
            Re: Sticky Throttle

            I have a bike that is a bit of a bitch to synch. I have found that if I synch at say 1400 rpms and get vacuums even, then it will be uneven at both higher and lower rpms. This is about where it would "hang". This is sort of a crossover point for vacuum and now it does not hang up.
            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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            • #7
              Sorry Prom. The throttle grip doesnt return to position when released. I should have made that more clear.
              I guess its time to tear into it and see what happens. If I shouldnt use WD40, what do you recommend?
              Thanks
              1981 XS 1100SH (Big Red)
              89 Club Car (ELECTRIC so it doesnt have a damn carb, thank God)

              Comment


              • #8
                Sticky fingers

                I split the control housing (two screws) and removed the cable .Oh ya ,one screw in the cable retainer at bottom . I used a cable clamp luber and Fluid Film to pressure lube the cable . I read somewhere that grease is used inside the control housing to keep things working smoothly . The throttle should snap back to closed . Make sure lube gets all the way down the cable casing.
                Axel
                XJ1100K
                Avon rubber
                MikesXS black coils
                Iridium plugs w/ 1k caps
                MikesXS front master
                Paragon SS brake lines (unlinked)
                Loud Horns (Stebel/Fiamm)
                Progressive fork springs
                CIBIE headlight reflector
                YICS Eliminator

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                • #9
                  Ok... first....
                  One needs a little slack in the cable for it to operate properly. take an 8 mm wrench to the cable adjustor by the grip and loosen it up so the handgrip has a lot of play in it. Does the grip now still hang?
                  Open the control housing and unhook the cable. Does the grip rotate freely on the handlebar or did someone 10 years ago put grease in there that has turned to sticky goo?
                  Pull on the cable end and see if it moves freely. Yes, you're fighting the return spring on the carb, but the cable should slide nicely, and snap back in place.
                  If not, the cable could be rusted in it's sheath or the cable is routed along the frame, under the tank and is pinched somewhere.
                  If there's a break in the outer sheath, or it looks like rust, yes, then use WD40 to break away the rust(Use a funnel, like when you lube the cable), followed by a cable lube to clear out the WD40. (I use a silicone based one)
                  I too have several different brands of cable lubing apparatuses... none are as effective as me grasping the cable end, wrapping my fingers around it to form a little bowl, and filling it with spray lube while pulling the cable in and out.
                  "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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