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**Ken Talbot** · 07-12-2007, 12:29 AM

Re: First Ride Report

Originally posted by eroellig
If anyone has any ideas on why #2 and #3 don't seem to want to respond to the mixture screw, I would apreciate a clue.

I would guess you've got a broken pick-up coil wire, are are in fact only running on #1 and #4, and at this point just don't know any better. The it about dying at the stop sign and olny being able to get it running on choke also points to carb problems.

Buy hey, at least it is running!

**eroellig** · 07-12-2007, 05:58 AM

Re: Re: First Ride Report

Originally posted by Ken Talbot

I would guess you've got a broken pick-up coil wire, are are in fact only running on #1 and #4, and at this point just don't know any better. The it about dying at the stop sign and olny being able to get it running on choke also points to carb problems.

Buy hey, at least it is running!

Hey Ken,

My timing light/tach says I'm getting consistent spark on #2 & #3 plugs, so I don't think there is a problem there. Also, I ohmed out the pickup coils through the wiring harness and I couldn't detect any problems.

Not too surprised to hear you say "carbs". They are the most complicated part on the bike. Now I just gotta figure out what about them is wrong. I was able to shoot carb cleaner freely through any passage I aimed at, so I'm "reasonably confident" things are clean.

I checked the slide diaphrams against a light and didn't see any pin holes. Those two do have smaller main jets than were issued from the factory. I wonder if all the jets in those two should be suspect??? Perhaps the PO put some of the crappy stuff in it???????? Seems to me that when I did the carbs, there was a discussion on how many holes should be in the pilot jets. I "think" I looked and saw what was considered good for the '80/'81 bikes.

I knew when I took off last night that the carbs were not setup right. I just couldn't resist any longer. I wanted to see it move under its own power.

(and see what happened under load)

Eric

**DiverRay** · 07-12-2007, 08:45 AM

Eric,
I would check the floats once again, and look at the float bowls to verify that ALL the ports and tiny holes are clear. You will then NEED to vacuum sync the carbs!! Until you have done this, nothing counts. The mercury tool is only about $45, and it should take less than one hour to do. DO NOT forget to use a fan to keep the engine cool!!!! If you try to sync without a fan, you can overheat the engine in about 10 minutes, and kill the bike!!

**underdog57** · 07-12-2007, 10:07 AM

you can use 3/16" clear line from hardware stores to sync.
put som auto trans fluid in . hook up to 1 and 2 , then 3 and 4.
then sync 2 to 3 ....
this can be tricky if your far off sync as it will suck the fluid pretty quick , but if your pre synced , not too bad ...
I shut the bike down if I saw the fluid shoot up fast , then made adjustment , try again ....
its cheap , but slow ...easy to read ...
I mounted mine on a yardstick as suggested from another web site ...what you do is make a loop . it should be searchable for a photo if ya need ..
let us know how you do .......

bob

**eroellig** · 07-12-2007, 03:42 PM

UPDATED PERFORMANCE REPORT

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

A summary of my tuneup attempts to date:

I have a mercury stick and have already synced it twice at this point. Made quite a difference in how it idles.

My timing light/electronic tach confirms good, consistent spark on all 4 plug wires.

The timing is dead on (one of the few things I didn't need to touch!!)

I have no known electrical problems. Ingition, gages & lights all seem to be working fine.

Volt meter confirms that the alternator is charging once RPMs get high enough.

Tried to use a Color Tune, but it was bright sunlight and I couldn't see the flame.

Cold compression test indicates that the compression in #2 has recovered. I'll do a hot test next tuneup attempt. All cyls (cold) read between 110-115psi.

My big box fan (on a stand) has been out in the garage since this past weekend where I can grab it easily. Already been using it during static run testing.

I have added a pig tail to the bikes battery (used a plug meant for a GM alternator) and am using it as a charger/jumper port.
Since I have been starting the bike a lot during these tune up sessions, have my RV battery hooked up to the pig tail, and my battery charger hooked up to the RV battery. Keeps me from running my new bike battery down. The pig tail will also be useful during the winter for battery maintenance.

---------------------------------------

Performance Update:

I ran an errand this morning and took the bike. Earlier in the morning, I had gotten a gas can full of 93 octane gas instead of the several months old regular gas I've been feeding it. Also added a generous splash of SeaFoam. I think the fresher gas has made a big difference.

It is running much better. Its idling better too. This morning after I took it off max enrichener, I could hear (and see on the tach) that the cyls that have been marginal were starting to pick up now & then. When running, it doesn't sound like its missing anymore and pulls better (more arm socket tension

) I didn't need to have the enrichener on during this trip and it ran and idled fine the entire time. Never tried to die and always responded to a twist of the wrist - no hesitation. I ran over to a hardware store for a bolt, and made sure it was happy to start again. Then took it down the main drag through my part of town. I was able to get it up to a whopping 50mph. But if I grab a fist full of throttle, it got there quick.

Runs like a scalded cat. I have a hard time believing that it would run this well if all 4 were not working "reasonably" close together. No more backfires/pops. I have good consistent spark everywhere.

I think I'll put just a few more miles on it and let the SeaFoam work any magic it can, then take another stab at a tuneup. The more it seems to clear on its own makes me think that there are, indeed, some hidden passage in a carb (or two) that I overlooked during overhaul. I haven't yet proclaimed it "trustworthy" just yet, so I'll putt around close to home.

My mixture screws are currently set anywhere from 1.5 to 2 turns out. OTOH, if it isn't raining tonight after it starts to get dark, I may roll it outside so I can use the Color Tune. I find that during bright daylight, it is hard to see the flame, much less see the color of the flame.

Eric

**DiverRay** · 07-12-2007, 04:40 PM

The OLD GAS in the tank!

I don't believe you were trying to run on that!! You do need to run through anything left in the tank BEFORE trying the "fine tune". If the bike has been sitting, you should have dumped the gas, and started with NOTHING but fresh mid-grade. The seafoam will help, but again, DO NOT try to tune with a mix of old, new and seafoam.
Ride the bike for a little while, get it out on the highway so it can stretch and really warm up. After that, then FILL the tank with mid-grade and do the final tune.

**eroellig** · 07-12-2007, 04:55 PM

Originally posted by DiverRay
The OLD GAS in the tank! I don't believe you were trying to run on that!! [...]

Well, the gas wasn't THAT old!!

There was NO gas in the bikes tank or carbs from before the rebuild. The "several months old gas" was gas that I had gotten in my portable gas can earlier in the spring this year (with StaBil added) for my lawn mower & generator. I think it might have been 4 (5 max) months old. However, it >>was<< the low 87 octane stuff.

Quite frankly, I'm surprised to see any difference, much less a difference of this magnatude. I've been using this old gas in my lawn equipment & generator with no problems.

Or, perhaps it is coincidence that it is running better with the new gas.... Perhaps running under load last night let gas through all the jets & passages and flushed out some bit of crud.

Or perhaps The Stead just likes high octane.

In any event, it very definitely ran 200% better today than it did last night. With this development, I won't get excited until I try another tuneup session and see how that goes.

**skids** · 07-12-2007, 05:04 PM

Re: UPDATED PERFORMANCE REPORT

Get her to good operating temperature before adjusting with the colortune. I would even be inclined to wait until after the tank of sea foam is replaced with normal gasoline, just in case.

Originally posted by eroellig
(snip)
My mixture screws are currently set anywhere from 1.5 to 2 turns out. OTOH, if it isn't raining tonight after it starts to get dark, I may roll it outside so I can use the Color Tune. I find that during bright daylight, it is hard to see the flame, much less see the color of the flame.

**eroellig** · 07-12-2007, 07:39 PM

Re: Re: UPDATED PERFORMANCE REPORT

Originally posted by skids
Get her to good operating temperature before adjusting with the colortune. I would even be inclined to wait until after the tank of sea foam is replaced with normal gasoline, just in case.

Hmmmm......

Sounds like an excuse to ride to me. I like it!!

Eric

**eroellig** · 07-13-2007, 10:07 AM

AH HA!!!!!

I found the source of my missing/run raggedness.

Pinched fuel lines.

It would seem that there is n't much room under the tank....

Rode it to work today. Finally got it up to 70. It was still pulling hard. Really has good accelleration in 5th gear at 55mph.

Sounds like the speedo need some lube. Anyone done that?

Eric

**DiverRay** · 07-13-2007, 10:37 AM

Eric,
Try a spray can of Silicon Lube, with the plastic "straw" on it. Disconnect the cable at the speedometer, and spray a quick two shots into the center of the cable. Then try and spray two more quick shots AROUND the cable mating area. You should be able to see the circle around the square hole for the cable end. That's about all you can do with the gauges on the bike.

**eroellig** · 07-13-2007, 12:38 PM

Originally posted by DiverRay
Eric,
[...]Silicon Lube,[...]a quick two shots into the center of the cable. Then try and spray two more quick shots AROUND the cable mating area. You should be able to see the circle around the square hole for the cable end. That's about all you can do with the gauges on the bike.

Ok. I lubed up the speedo cable when I had it off the bike. I'll see what I can shoot up into the speedo itself.

MAN, this bike is a BLAST.

I know what I'm doing this weekend.

Eric

**eroellig** · 07-14-2007, 05:23 PM

Originally posted by DiverRay
Eric,
Try a spray can of Silicon Lube, [...] AROUND the cable mating area. [...]

Ray, Thanks. It quieted it down nicely.

eric

**eroellig** · 07-14-2007, 05:48 PM

Front Brakes.

Well, I put a good 100 miles on it today and life is good....except for one little thing.

If you grab the front brakes at >40mph, it gets pretty scary. At 55mph, its >>BAD<< scary. The entire front end starts jumping around something fierce. At low speed, it just feels like a pulsing in the brake lever. Also, it tends to grab at the point where it pulses. It makes it very hard to come to a smooth stop. At first I just chalked it up to me being a rank beginner. However, I think it really is the brakes. If I used the rear brake during the final stages of my stop, I can make a smooth stop.

I'm assuming that one of the front rotors has a high spot (or is bent. A farm er is said to have knocked it over during its 3 year slumber. Don't know what it may have fallen on.) I don't >see< any deformities, but I wouldn't really expect to be able to visually see anything except if it is grossly out of whack.

Some searching through some old threads tells me that the later XS650's have the same (size) rotors as the 1100's. Looking at MikesXS, I see that they no longer have the non-slotted rotors that the 78,79 models used. They have a drilled, high performance rotor that is usable on either side, as opposed to our later models slotted rotors.

http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-chass...ategory_id=1.2
Part #30-3065

I see where these have been used on a standard (Pathfinder), but has anyone used these on an 80 special before?

Eric

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