carbs NOT leaking, still running rough

[blackdawg]

When i drained the tank and float bowl there was debree coming out.Now could i just spray carb cleaner in the throttle body while its running ,or should i break down and pull the carbs and clean them.I"M A LITTLE SCARED AS I HAVE NOT DONE THIS BEFORE,but i have printed the forum on this.Need your take on this guys.

thanks

blackdawg

[mro]

off with the carbs

I take it that your getting fuel into the filter box? , may also have gone into the crank case by going past the rings/pistons.

So you may have gas in your oil too.

Sounds like float needle/seat problem. Takes only a tiny spec of debris to allow fuel past the needle and flow into air box. If petcocks leaking too can drain fuel tank.

Pull carbs, remove float bowls, remove float pin to remove float and needle.

Remove single screw that secures the float seat and pull it out.
Filter on botton side is delicate.

Can now spray cleaner thru all jets/passage ways.
THIS IS NOT a complete carb cleaning but should help with the leaking.

Float height for 80 carbs is 23mm. Check that after cleaning and reasemble

Float pin can be a challange to remove sometimes. See teh tips if you have a problem. Too much force and you can break off a float pin post.


mro

[gmlever]

I'm also a new guy,I just put my carbs back on yesterday after a good cleaning.It's kind of a pain but with the help of these guy's and this web site it worked very well ! 1980sg,23mm floats,115 mains,45 pilots,3 1/4 turns out on the idle screws.From kinda doggy to letting the monster out of the can ! Good luck !

[Ken Talbot]

Blackdawg - when you have fuel leaking from the carbs you have two problems. You have one or more leaky float valves , plus you have one or more leaking petcocks. I don't see it in your profile, but I'm assuming you have a Standard model, and not a Special.

Shooting carb cleaner in throught the throat of the carb is a waste of time and money. To get at the problem, you have to pull the carbs and strip them down. Do them one at a time, on a clean workbench, and keep track of what came out of where. Clean one carb and put it back together, then omve on to another one. It may seem a bit intimidaating the first time through, but it really is not so bad.

Just for clarification, exactly what model do you have?

[pggg]

dawg! unbolt & remove both petcocks, remove the bank of carbs, keep all 4 carbs bolted together, get all 6 units on a table top, when done, report back for info on next step

[blackdawg]

rebuilding the carbs

Remeber i"m new to rebuilding the carbs .There off the bike now i have printed the thread for the rebuild.IF the jets are good and the carbs only need the seal or gaskets can i get that separtly from the bike shop.how many gaskets are there and how many seals ? what are the most common parts to replace or do i wait till i get them apart.also i have been hearing vinigar as good cleaner can you soak the carbs over night of coarse without any rubber seals.use carb cleaner for the inards.any help would be kindly appreciated.

blackdawg

[HobbyMan]

If you are careful, you can usually get by without new parts. Eventually you may need new float pins and seals(you will know them when you see them). It takes about 3 or 4 cleans to get them working properly. That is why we say "triple clean" the carbs Get used to taking them on and off.

[mro]

Most likely just will need 4 of item #48-1408 $12.00 USD /Kit and two cans of carb cleaner.
http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-fuel_...ategory_id=4.3

Above fits BS34 111's (80+ carbs)

Should not need to "dip" carbs.
Follow tech tips for cleaning.
Untill familure with carbs recommend removing all float bowls, then float pins/floats.
Use care not to use too much force removing float pin as it is very possible to break off a post. (Ken has made a special tool for there removal, works great)

Place all parts in there respective bowl.
Disasemble and clean carbs one at a tme from this point.
Forget where a part goes?
Disasemble next carb to that point to find out.
etc.....

all cleaned>?

Do the "bread tie" bench synk.

Carbs back to gether but with float bowls still off.
Set floats height to 23mm.

Some recommend at this point to bench test them for leaking.
May be a good idea as this is your first time.

No leaks?..., reinstall carbs, hook up fuel lines and set petcocks to prime to double check that they do not leak.

Reinstall air box etc... Vac synk, then adjust fuel/air pilot needle.
Vac synk agin.

Test ride time.



mro
btw, when running bike anytime during service for more than a minute or two place a fan blowing to front of engine to help keep it from over heating. Tech tips cover pretty much everything above in good detail

[HobbyMan]

yeah right "test ride". What you really mean is see how long you can keep the throttle open

[blackdawg]

carbs still a leaking help i"m a newbie

followed the instructions for the carb cleaning cleaned her all up ,of couese had to drill some screws out.Alot of crap inside number one float seemed a little sticky.THE float levels were at 25 -26 mm so i left them at that i thought the bowl might not over fill.as soon as i put it on prime gas started leaking out of 3 of the 4 carbs.Now could it be the octopus or the float level.Also a dumb move i made is i had to did into my memory for two jet installations hope i didn"t screw up.anyone know how to identify which jet to which spot so i can double check.pictures would be great .I think it is the float level myself.any help guys i need it.first carb rebuilding,but i"m determined.been riding my xs 750 in the meantime.I want to get this one running.

[dragxs11]

Your floats on 3 and 4 are sticking for sure. If you didn't replace the float bowl gaskets they may be squished out and holding up the floats, or the float needle could be sticking cocked sidways in the seat. Check stock jetting and jetting recommendations for that. The pilot(idle mixture) jet sizes are different now by # than originals. What used to be a 42.5 is now something like a 20. I took a #78 drill bit to the dealer to get the right sizes.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Blackdawg,

I merged your previous threads into your latest one, cause it's better to keep the same troubleshooting theme in the same thread, so "we" can see what has already been done, suggested, etc!!

Also, PLEASE edit your signature or profile to include the YEAR and model(assuming Special since Octy), but there ARE differences between the years, and the techniques will also differ according to those year specifics!

Not trying to be the picky grammar guy, but a little well placed punctuation goes a long way towards proper understanding of what you are saying! EXAMPLE:

Alot of crap inside number one float seemed a little sticky

Was there a lot of crap inside the #1 FLOAT, or just in the #1 carb, and the float was also sticky!?

I'm assuming you meant the carb body, but being a novice, you may have actually heard/felt something rattling in the actual FLOAT, but not realized that there shouldn't be anything in there, and that rattling is actually an indication of a leaking float, and THAT would be a cause for it to NOT float and thereby leak!

Once "we" know what year you have, then we can provide more specifics in fixing the leak, with the least amount of typing!
T.C.

PS, you did mean that you had to drill out some securing SCREWS, like bowl screws....not any of the actual jets???

[skids]

Whats the matter TC? Don't you have your "decoder" ring?

[blackdawg]

carb problems

What would you suggest for the next step.Remove the carbs and reset the float level.How do you adjust the float level ,bend the metal tab ?I also updated my profile thanks .blackdawg

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Hey Blackdawg,

I merged your previous threads into your latest one, cause it's better to keep the same troubleshooting theme in the same thread, so "we" can see what has already been done, suggested, etc!!

Also, PLEASE edit your signature or profile to include the YEAR and model(assuming Special since Octy), but there ARE differences between the years, and the techniques will also differ according to those year specifics!

Not trying to be the picky grammar guy, but a little well placed punctuation goes a long way towards proper understanding of what you are saying! EXAMPLE:


Was there a lot of crap inside the #1 FLOAT, or just in the #1 carb, and the float was also sticky!?

I'm assuming you meant the carb body, but being a novice, you may have actually heard/felt something rattling in the actual FLOAT, but not realized that there shouldn't be anything in there, and that rattling is actually an indication of a leaking float, and THAT would be a cause for it to NOT float and thereby leak!

Once "we" know what year you have, then we can provide more specifics in fixing the leak, with the least amount of typing!
T.C.

PS, you did mean that you had to drill out some securing SCREWS, like bowl screws....not any of the actual jets???

[pggg]

Dawg, all this debris in the carbs, sounds like the petcock filter screens are dodgy, also the fuel tank, grungy and rusty inside? If so, definitely a case where inline filters are needed - at least until the fuel hoses, petcocks and tank are fixed. There's always the option to ditch the octopus and re-plumb the petcocks - a simpler setup and less clutter around the carbs/tank area. Yeah, carefully tweak the float tang for float level adjusting. These parts you should remove for a complete clean out - main jet, pilot jet, emulsion tube, fuel valve and components, air pilot jet, idle mix screws.