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Roadkill's Carb Crunch

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  • Roadkill's Carb Crunch

    I have taken the day to rebuild the carbs. they are all nice and clean... cleaned over and over again all my jets, including the pilots have been out cleaned and put back in.. im now at the last few parts...

    First off, my idle mix screws... I just cant seem to tell when they're "lightly seated" and 1.25 turns from when?... sorry bone head here, but i just cant get it. worried about breaking tips..

    then the floats, the three someone took off, are bent "down" like the one on the right, but the one that was not removed previously, is flush with the float body.. "the one on the left".. any suggestions? and if i am to set it to 23mm, where is that measured from?.. again i dont get it.




    and you all wanted a few pics, well here you go.. a couple.. oh and if anyone knows what kind of exhaust this is pls lemme know, im just curious..




  • #2
    I have the same turned out exhaust on my 81 special. Don't know what they are either except I like the way they sound
    1981 Eleven Special

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    • #3
      I hope you've replaced the float needles, as the fuel staining under the airbox is quite evident.
      Lightly seated pilot screws: Just using your thumb and forefinger, (and a light screwdriver)slowly screw the needle in until you feel slight resistance. STOP! That's far enough.
      Now back the needle out the required amount of turns.

      regarding float height and such...
      What year and model is this bike?

      Oh, I see... XJ Maxim (I saw the YICS on the valve covers) I'll let an XJ guy provide the specifics.
      Last edited by prometheus578; 06-25-2007, 08:56 PM.
      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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      • #4
        Hey Roadkill,

        Did you see This setting float height tech tip ??

        Check your float valves, makes sure that the little spring pin on the end springs/bounces and isn't stuck. That "may" be why the float setting tangs are bent at different amounts! The valves are rubber/viton tipped, and so you can't soak them in harsh carb cleaner to try to unstick that spring pin IF it's stuck! But, you can spritz it with carb cleaner and gently pull on it and then spritz some more, and push/pull on the pin until it's moving freely! But it's best to replace these with all NEW needle valves and O-rings that fit around the bottom of the valve seat....what the valve is sitting in!

        Secondly, folks have reported being able to feel the tip of the pilot screw sticking out thru one of the little holes on the engine side of the carb tunnel when the screw is lightly seated. This means just turn it gently down clockwise until it stops turning with 2 finger/finger-thumb pressure on the screwdriver. THEN just back it back out from that point viewing the position of the blade so you can count the turns/partial turns!

        BTW, did you remove the LARGE main Nozzle jet...that brass tube that the Main JET was screwed into? It comes out thru the top of the carb body, for cleaning/ inspecting to ensure that the little aeration holes in it are also open!
        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

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        • #5
          They look like MAC headers that you can get from Dennis Kirk. I recently bought a set of 4-2 headers with these bolt-on mufflers, but opted for the straight taper and not the turn out type.
          Past Rides:
          1969 OSSA 250 Pioneer
          1979 XS650 Special
          1978 Honda CB750K
          Current: 1980 XS1100SG

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          • #6

            "Plate" 1 should be flat and in line with top of floats.
            "tang" 2 is what you bend to set height


            mro

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