Announcement

**79XS11F** · 06-10-2007, 07:41 PM

Use the tool and use it with care . Read the instruction fully and carefully.
Will run quieter when done but I never noticed any performance increase for the sake of doing just the valves. That might be different if they are not fully closing but if that was the case they would have got burned and would not seat fully even after an adjustment. Carb tune up will improve performance.
Not sure how much time to set aside... everyones skill level is different.
Manual says to set they as close to smallest spec as you can = less top end noise. I find that making them all as close to each other as possible is also quieter.
Your EX numbers are good so leave them as is.
Rob

**TopCatGr58** · 06-10-2007, 07:59 PM

Hey Ben,

As for performance, would depend on whether you are keeping the exhaust valves open when the engine warms up with those close values?? You might try a compression test cold and then again warmed up! If it's the same or higher when warm, then you probably haven't burned any valves, but if it's lower, then you might have started to burn them. Also lower when warm could affect performance, and so you might get a little boost with the proper clearances....possibly more noticeable in MPG than seat of the pants!?

Dangit, just realized was looking at the wrong valves, Ex instead of intake!
The shims come in .05mm increments which is ~.002 in., so going about 2 steps thinner on 1,2, and 4, and 1 step thinner on #3 would set you at:
~.007in; .008in; .008in; .007in IF my calculations are correct?!
I remember posting a valve shim calculator, but you need to know what size shim is in there!!

Technique will be what you are capable of and feel most comfortable with. Both will take time, but the valve tool would probably be the safer of the two. You'll need to switch it among the valves a few times, once to find out what shim are there, and then to determine IF you can swap any between cylinders? You may still need an extra one, won't matter what it's size, just to put in the lifter bucket if you need to rotate the cams, you don't want to have the cam rubbing directly against the bucket innards!

Probably allow a few hours, but may be less depending on how far it is to the shop to get the required shims, unless you've gotten a set already?
T.C.

**trbig** · 06-10-2007, 09:52 PM

My vote is to do them all while you're in there. You're at the very bottom of the "In Spec" on the exhaust. Just do them all now so you don't have to worry about again it in six months..

Also.. for me it's easier to just pull the cams. But, I've done it several times and the tool I bought wasn't worth a crap.. so.. Just my 2 cents.

Tod

**mro** · 06-11-2007, 07:39 AM

I'm considering setting clearances at max, unless that's a bad idea.

When I'm adjusting the clearances,
I shoot for getting them all as near the lower of the spec as possible.
Exhaust is "spot on" at .008
as is intake #3 at .006

mro

**prometheus578** · 06-11-2007, 08:10 AM

"Might take about an hour, maybe a little more"

Clean the oil offa the intake cam gear.
Take some fingernail polish... mark a link of the chain and the cam gear for quick reference in case the chain jumps offa the gear.
Set the timing plate to the "C" position
Pull the cam chain tensioner off.
You have three shims to do on the intake, much quicker to just lift up the cam to access the shims.
Intake #3.. If it's a tight .006, maybe I'd change it. If it's a loose .006, I'd leave it alone.

Announcement

Valve Clearance Advice

Valve Clearance Advice

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment