Lunch Bag Let Down ... She Didn't Fire Up...STILL NO START ??

[79XS11F]

I will check that Randy. Is there no reference marks on it? I did in deed have that apart to clean and lube it? I am sure I reinstalled it the only way it will go because of the pin on the backside? Is there some other way to get the part that spins on that shaft 180 degrees out?

Also ... Is this the correct orientation for the tip over switch?




Rob

[79XS11F]

Here is a PIC of reluctor. Engine is at "T" and reluctor is at the bottom pickup coil. Is this the correct location for it? If wrong would switching out the Grey and Orange leads on the coils correct it as a test?




Rob

[AlanB]

Hi 79SF,

Orientation of the tip-switch is irrelevant if it is in most recommended place; THE TRASH!!

AlanB

[pggg]

You can put the timing mechanism back the wrong way, and it backfires and won't start - well you wouldn't want it to start, it'd damn near blow the motor to bits, anyway easy to test by swapping leads/wires etc..

[79XS11F]

OK ... I checked the manual and there is no mention what so ever about the position of the reluctor fin when working on the auto advance. However there happens to be a photo of the units installation to show the alignment of the locating slot on the back side of the auto advance and sure enough ... the reluctor fin is in line with the locating slot so it looks like my timing was in deed 180 degrees out. This is an easy fix that is already done :-) So I am now checking the fuel level in the carb bowls and if that's good she should fire right up when i get the carbs back on.

THANKS RANDY ....

I likely would have never even looked at the reluctor position due to it not being in the manual.
Rob

[79XS11F]

I JUST don't get it and I am getting mighty PISSED OFF. I checked the fuel level in the bowls and it is right on the money. Fuel level is in line with the bowl screw washer. Anyway ... Can someone tell me why the BLASTED carbs hold fuel on the bench with the gas tank on prime and above the carbs but as soon as I put them on the bike they don't?? I have tapped on the bowls in case a float is sticking or contacting the side of the bowl but no luck. Fuel keeps flowing and flows out the intake mounts in the box. So then I turn the fuel petcocks to on position, clean up the mess and try to start the engine. It fires up and runs for about 15 seconds and dies. I guess the fuel must be flowing for it to keep running even if the bowls and lines are full?
Rob

[randy]

Rob,

I hope you have the fuel lines connected to the LOWER tee fittings and the air box to the UPPER tee fittings?

If you have the fuel connected to the upper fittings, they will flood

[79XS11F]

Yes I do Randy. I also have the fuel lines crossed over each other under and toward the back of the carbs as is seen in the manual. I currently have the fuel tank on the bench that is higher then the carbs and I even hooked up my vac lines to the tank so I don't have to run it on prime. I just took a break from her and pulled the plugs. They are all very wet so she is flooding for sure. I have left the plugs out and will let her dry out a bit before I try again. I am at a loss as to what is up with the carbs. The bike is on main stand on a flat floor in my garage
Rob

[79XS11F]

And it continues ... So I dried off the plugs and cylinders with compressed air. Then I added a bit of engine oil to each cylinder and spun the engine a few times followed by more compressed air to get that oil everywhere.
The carbs are on the bench. I pulled the bowls and everything in there appears good. I applied a vacuum to the fuel supply lines to check the seal between the float valves and the valve seats. The setup with the carbs upside down on the bench held the vacuum for more then 15 minutes on each supply line . I can also blow air past the valves through the fuel lines if I lift the floats slightly. So it looks like the float valves and seats are good to go. After this break I will check the fuel level AGAIN on the bench and then I will hook up the tank again above the carbs and see what I have.
I'll keep you posted .... unless there's a FIRE LOL LOL
Rob

[79XS11F]

AN UPDATE :-) :-)

I checked the fuel levels in the carb bowls again and all 4 are on the money. Fuel level for all 4 is right at the lock washer of the bowl screw. I also bench tested the float valves and no fuel was spilled with the tank full of gas and on prime.
SO .. I put the carbs back on the bike WITHOUT the air box because I expected to be removing them again. I primed them and saw No fuel spills. She fired right up and runs but a little rough. Lots of white smoke out the exhaust but I even managed to get her to idle at a consistent speed. Timing was right on as is auto advance. So I will re & re the carbs again tomorrow and use the air box and see what happens.
Rob

[prometheus578]

You've probably done this, but I shall mention it again.
With the bowls of and the carbs up side down, hook your fuel supply to them. Of course it doesn't leak... there's air in the line that needs to be bled out. "Blip" each float to bring fuel to the needle. Dry the area, and now, with fuel right at the needle, watch for leakage.
Secondly, check the vent hoses from the upper "T" to the airbox. (The ones that Randy is talking about) If those lines are plugged, or the fittings for the lines at the airbox are plugged, the carbs will over flow.
This would go along with what you've just mentioned.

I put the carbs back on the bike WITHOUT the air box because I expected to be removing them again. I primed them and saw No fuel spills.

Might be that those vent lines are plugged... Check the orifices in the carb body, too

[desert1]

Your not alone Rob

I've been reading this thread intently because I've been going thru the same frustrating scenario as you Rob....had the carbs out at least 4 times' two carbs dumping fuel out the the backside this after new kits and carbs pristenely clean and set at 25 mm float height double checked, might add had to replace one float needle valve (the spring in it was broke) also had my vac. advance out and may have installed wrong as well.... the bike is bawking and sputtering, front firing.....so I will check the advance mechanism and I possitively refuse to remove the carbs again at least till a nice sunny riding day happens So far this year my total riding distance is about 50 kms, my total wrenching time several days it seems....ughhhh

[79XS11F]

Re: Your not alone Rob

Originally posted by desert1
I've been reading this thread intently because I've been going thru the same frustrating scenario as you Rob....had the carbs out at least 4 times' two carbs dumping fuel out the the backside this after new kits and carbs pristenely clean and set at 25 mm float height double checked, might add had to replace one float needle valve (the spring in it was broke) also had my vac. advance out and may have installed wrong as well.... the bike is bawking and sputtering, front firing.....so I will check the advance mechanism and I possitively refuse to remove the carbs again at least till a nice sunny riding day happens So far this year my total riding distance is about 50 kms, my total wrenching time several days it seems....ughhhh

Thanks prom ... I will check those vent lines and see if there are any that are plugged. I think i will skip the test of the valve seats because they were good with a vac pump. I just got up a few min ago and everything in still dry. I had left the fuel tank in the on position hooked up to the carbs on the bike overnight.

I do think that I will however test the fuel that is coming out of my tank. I will run a couple of cups of fuel through a coffee filter and see if there are any gifts in the filter. Perhaps this is a happenstance issue related to dirty fuel.

[79XS11F]

Re: Your not alone Rob

Originally posted by desert1
I've been reading this thread intently because I've been going thru the same frustrating scenario as you Rob....had the carbs out at least 4 times' two carbs dumping fuel out the the backside this after new kits and carbs pristenely clean and set at 25 mm float height double checked, might add had to replace one float needle valve (the spring in it was broke) also had my vac. advance out and may have installed wrong as well.... the bike is bawking and sputtering, front firing.....so I will check the advance mechanism and I possitively refuse to remove the carbs again at least till a nice sunny riding day happens So far this year my total riding distance is about 50 kms, my total wrenching time several days it seems....ughhhh

Hey desert ... Check your float valves because i was also using an aftermarket set and while adjusting the floats I noticed that on 2 of them when I pushed down on the tab the valve would bottom out ... and then make a "click" sound. I removed all of them and put back the original ones and the "click" sound was gone. I have no idea what was producing that sound but I was taking no chances. Check the reluctor position as well as the gap unless your getting good spark. Also if it's been flooding remove the plugs and blow them out with compressed air to dry them out. I also directed compressed air into each cylinder through the plug holes to dry them out before adding a shot (about a teaspoons worth )of oil followed by more air.
If you must remove the carbs again mount them as I did without the air box. The bike will start and run without the air box and the carbs will come off a lot faster as you trouble shot them. Also bench sinc them.
OH also my air compressor has a water trap so don't be using compressed air onto the cylinders if your compressor does not. You don't want water in there.
Rob

[79XS11F]

So I checked the vents in the air box that hook up to the carb vents and the one that services number 1 and 2 cylinders was in deed plugged and it was plugged solid. Looked like sand and bug junk. Others are OK

THANKS Prom for your input.... Man it doesn't take much to cripple one of these puppies does it? I guess that's what happens when a bike or it's parts sit unused for too long. The blasted bugs get at it. Some of this simple stuff would not likely occur if the machine is used often.
Rob