i need help bad

[randy]

At the coils, ORANGE is for cylinders 1&4, GREY for cylinders 2&3. Red/White is common to both coils. If you switch it 'round, it won't run at all, it will only backfire.

The timing light advice is right on, if #1 is in time, the rest will follow!

[trevonxs11]

hey guys, sorry i took so long to reply... long day at work. anyway, about the p.u. coil wires that flex, they feel hollow and soft to smash. does this mean they are bad? i did read about them on this site, and he talked about splicing the wires. does he mean to cut them and put another piece of wire on them like an extinsion? if so, can i use regular wires like in the harness, because there would be no flexing? but befor i do anything else, i want to swap the orange wire and grey wire from ignition coils to tci box, cuz i havent tried that. i think they should be right, but mabey not. thanks for the help guys, i'll post soon as anything changes. thanks -trevon-

[thewiz]

Don't trust your eyeball ...

alone on those PU coil wires. Mine broke right at that pinch clamp on the plate inside the insulation on two different advance plates!

Best way is to beg, borrow or swipe an Ohm meter and do the test ... that'll pretty much tell the tale, bro' .... a battery powered continuity tester might work if a wire is completely broken. (would not light)

OTHERWISE .... Unhook the wires from the pinch clamp .... then; if you grab all of each wire that is visible, one at a time, and very GENTLY try to stretch it, as if to pull it apart in the middle of the exposed portion, and if the insulation stretches significantly, the wires are probably separated. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE WITH THE PULLING because the wires are fragile anyway ..... no sense bustin' somethin' that ain't already broke, right?

Fixing it is pretty easy, 'specially for a guy who practically built his own harness, right? .... those soft leads to the PU coil connect to the TCI pairs about 8 or 10 inches back down the harness. If you pinch along the harness, you can feel the connectors ... it gets fatter there. You could start the fix there and finish with a splice OR just put a short patch in place of the break ... either way. I had a spare junk lead and patched it with that ... still got your old harness? .... but I coulda' gone to Radio Shack and probably picked up some good, soft wire there ... otherwise I woulda' used any light guage wire that I had layin' around .....

[Ken Talbot]

Re: Don't trust your eyeball ...

Originally posted by thewiz
if you grab all of each wire that is visible, one at a time, and very GENTLY try to stretch it, as if to pull it apart in the middle of the exposed portion, and if the insulation stretches significantly, the wires are probably separated. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE WITH THE PULLING because the wires are fragile anyway ..... no sense bustin' somethin' that ain't already broke, right?

My advice here would be to pull as hard as you can with your fingers, forget about trying to be gentle. If the wires are in such a fragile state that you can pull them apart or damage them with just your fingers, they need to be fixed. Leaving them alone, IHMO, is just inviting them to break later on when it may not be really convenient to fix. Yank those wires!

[thewiz]

Of course ...

Ken is right. Thank you, Ken. My point here is only that: if a wire is indeed bad or headed there soon; it won't take very much force at all to stretch only the insulation alone or break that one or two strands that remain intact.

[trevonxs11]

the beast is alive

hey guys good news..... she is running great, and i spent all day on it. i was right, it did end up being the ignition coil wires (orang and grey) i swiched them she fired right up and ran great. thanks for all the help! ill keep in touch, later -trevon-

[thewiz]

Nice diag, Randy

Nice also to hear about another one back OTR. Got any pics, Trev?

[trevonxs11]

i dont have any pictures of my xs yet, only my zzr 600 (my baby). but i will get some of the xs and put them on here soon

[Snow]

Re: the beast is alive

Originally posted by trevonxs11
it did end up being the ignition coil wires (orang and grey) i swiched them she fired right up and ran great.

It's good to be the king

[Tdog]

BLAST OFF

Way to Go Trev! I've been lurking on this thread a hoping an' a prayin' fo' ya. Now I think a tire frying burnout is in order

[trevonxs11]

minor trouble again

hey guys i have a small problem, i hope. for some reason somtimes it will die when i get it in gear, somtimes not. i can be going down the road and pull in the clutch and it will die. i dont want to ride too far cuz i have a very weak battery, and when it dies somtimes it wont have enough charch to get it started again. if anyone has any thoughts lemme know. thanks guys

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Trevon,

First, congrats on a job well done, with Randy's help!

Secondly, a key point you mentioned was a weak battery! I haven't reread this thread, so don't know or remember what all you've done to the bike, carb wise as well as checking the charging system?

Randy just posted a reply about how with a weak battery and charging system, on low rpm hitting the brakes/lights could drop the available voltage to the TCI which causes it to fail/quit working when it drops below 10 volts!!

No detail is too small to include when describing a problem....like when you are riding and pull in the clutch, what are the rpms at, close to idle? Or are you doing this when coming to a stop? What is your idle set at?

Get a new strong battery, and test your charging system to ensure it's working properly, clean all contacts, battery, alt, reg/rect frame contacts/grounds, etc.!
T.C.

[trevonxs11]

i wish it ran perfect, but i'm close

it does it when i need to stop, so yes close to idle. somtimes when i first get it out it will do it when i start it and its idling. i can hear a motor rattling, sounds like it may be the cam chain, should i try to tighten it as discribed in the clymer manuel? thanks for any thoughts

[skids]

Re: i wish it ran perfect, but i'm close

Yes. Borrow a baby torque wrench. You do NOT want to strip the stopper bolt.

Originally posted by trevonxs11
it does it when i need to stop, so yes close to idle. somtimes when i first get it out it will do it when i start it and its idling. i can hear a motor rattling, sounds like it may be the cam chain, should i try to tighten it as discribed in the clymer manuel? thanks for any thoughts

[trevonxs11]

its already stripped

hey i just went out to tighten the cam chain tention and the bolt was already sripped, what kinds of problems could this cause?