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  • soldering/signal switch

    finally found the reason for my non functioning signals-broken factory solder connections in the switch. they are soooo small in there, its hard to work around the other components. also, the solder and gun i tried isn't working too well. the soldered connection i make keeps breaking. any suggestions for a better solder/method? something that won't re-break when i install the switch? thx
    79 xs1100F
    75K and counting...
    76k...
    79k...
    80k...
    86k...

  • #2
    I haven’t had to solder much,
    but area needs to be clean and using the "right type" and size solder helps.

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    • #3
      anybody know what the 'right type' of solder would be? it all looks silver to me...
      79 xs1100F
      75K and counting...
      76k...
      79k...
      80k...
      86k...

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      • #4
        Originally posted by portero72
        anybody know what the 'right type' of solder would be? it all looks silver to me...
        Get some solder at radio shack, standard 60/40 will work well.
        I usually use a rosin core type but regardless I will use a small dab of flux on the old solder joint and then add some new solder as soon as I get flow.

        Do not spend too much time with the solder in a flow state as seperation and stratification will occur. 3 to 5 seconds in the flow state and then remove the heat. The good solder joint will have a shiny appearance when it cools. A poor joint will be dull.

        Electronics tech for the last 19 years. I have soldered a wire or two.
        Trying not to offend since Aug 28, 2010

        Disclaimer: I am an idiot. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.
        Owner of:
        1979 XS1100F (The Pig)
        140 mains
        45 pilot jets
        Floats at 24mm
        Running Rich

        "Arrogant, delusional tyrants can't be stopped by earnest words and furrowed brows. Action, strong bold action coming from a position of strength and determination, is the only effective deterrent." -Mitt Romney

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        • #5
          I would pick up a 35 or 40 Watt solder iron from Radio Shack, as well. Most of the guns are fast, but the tips are too large for fine work. Should only be about $10 for the tool, and $3.95 for the solder.
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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          • #6
            Also very important to keep the tip of the iron tight, clean and tinned with solder. A loose and dirty tip will not transfer heat well. I file the tip clean before use then tin it. While wroking, periodically wipe the tip with a damp sponge and re-tin it

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            • #7
              Don't use 'flux cored solder' it's junk, use a bottle of liquid flux and a chunk of solid bar solder, makes all the difference

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              • #8
                woohoo!!

                seems to have worked, after much fiddling/cursing/rebreaking(its sooo effffing small in there). have yet to install switch back on bike, tho. its raining here in tx. looks solid, tho. will keep y'all posted. thx, mark
                79 xs1100F
                75K and counting...
                76k...
                79k...
                80k...
                86k...

                Comment

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