fork oil change disaster

[mastan]

Hi all:
I was attempting to change the fork oil on my 78 XS for the first time (since I've had it), and it turned into a disaster. I was trying to take off the top caps as specified in Clymers. One side loosened ok, but the other side was stuck good. I wd40'd it, tapped it, everything I could think of. When I tried to loosen it the bolt sheared off completely! It never did turn, so it is still sealed and not leaking.
Do you have any suggestions about what my next step should be? I'm really bummed cause XSEast is fast approaching and I don't know if I should make the trip as is.
Can that cap be replaced? I checked bike bandit and it seems as though it's discontinued. If I am able to locate a cap, any ideas on how I can remove whats left of the old one?
TIA,
Mark Stanton
78XS11e

[fredintoon]

What bolt?

Hi Mark,
what bolt did you break? The aluminum plug at the top that unscrews has a thread diameter of 30mm or so and it would take King Kong to bust it. If it's the top triple-clamp pinch bolt, that's a nut & bolt and the broken bits should just pry out & be replaced. Here's what you can do now, temporarily, if it's safe to ride.
Take out the drain plug and pump the forks up & down to force the existing oil out. Put the right amount of fork oil plus a spoonful for spillage in a syringe and squirt it in there through the drain hole. Quick as a flash shove the drainscrew back in.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[mastan]

Yup, it's the big one I broke. It broke into about 7 pieces.
I had read about that easy fork oil change, and going completely against my nature I wanted to try to do it the "right" way.
I did call the dealer and of course it's discontinued.
Mark

[randy]

Mark,

If the fork is still sealed you may have trouble squirting oil in through the drain against air pressure in the fork!. If you're not having steering issues, leave it alone until after the rally!

Did you loosen the top triple clamp bolt before you tried to remove the cap? That clamp may have compressed the tube enough to bind the cap?

When you do get to repairing the damage, remove the fork, wrap it in some protective something and clamp it in a vise, gently but securely. Apply some heat to the fork tube at the cap area and grab the cap flange with a slip-joint plier or vise grip. The cap should (insert prayer of your chosen faith here) come loose. Watch out for the massive spring pressure! Flying hot fork cap!?

[mastan]

Flying hot fork cap
I think that's close to what I screamed when I broke that cap.
It's a 78, no air, so that's not an issue. When I got everything back together and wanted to take a test ride, it started pouring rain, so I don't know about the steering issues yet. It's been that kind of day...
Mark

[randy]

No,

I didn't mean there is air pressure higher than atmoshperic pressure, but you will be trying to squirt oil into the fork and there is no outlet for the air you're attempting to dispalce. make sense?

[mastan]

yup,
I think I'll take it for a ride and see how it handles as is. If it seems ok I'll deal with it after the rally. If it's not, I'll see you next year
Mark

[prometheus578]

Remove the fork from the bike. Turn it upside down and remove the hex head bolt from the bottom. (clean the area first)
(ok, clean the area after you've pumped the old oil out of it))
Use a funnel and pour a measured amount of fork oil into the tube though the bolt hole.
The syringe method is an easy/messy way to change oil if one doesn't feel like pulling the tubes.

[pggg]

Good luck on getting the bolt back in.

[randy]

exactly, pggg!

Prom, how do you propose he gets the bolt out without a way to hold the mechanism from the inside?

Hey, we all have senior moments, but we try to keep them to ourselves!

[red bandit]

Prom, how do you propose he gets the bolt out without a way to hold the mechanism from the inside?

impact wrench.

[mro]

Stubborn fork

With fork out and drained,
can refill thru drain hole with syringe.
Elevate drain hole end of fork slightly.


mro

[Snow]

Originally posted by red bandit


impact wrench.

+1 - The reason I bought a compressor and impact wrench in the first place was to change fork seals...

[prometheus578]

Ahh Gentleman.... gentleman...
I don't know where to begin?
Randy has a good point. It's on the top of his head, but a good point, none the less.
Yes, there are special tools to hold the inner-works still whilst trying to remove the bolt. They come in many shapes, lengths, configurations... different styles for different brands.
One thing that all forks have in common, though, is that when you turn them over, "apply a little fat"(meaning: lean on the fork and compress the tube)... the compressed spring inside applies enough pressure to hold everything from spinning.
Red Bandit has it correct... the bolt is then taken out with a "Zap Gun"
Reassembly is equally simple. After pouring in the new fork oil, look down into the hole.
"Oh my... the hole for the bolt isn't lined up!"
Stick a screwdriver in the hole, shift the damper rod so the holes line up and put the bolt back in.

This is a simple operation that can be done at home provided that one has a "Zap Gun".
It can also be done at a motorcycle shop... which is where I choose to do it... AS I DO THIS FOR A *#+~%^# LIVING!

My my... I haven't had my coffee yet!
HAAHHAAHAHAAaaa

[pggg]

Hey Prom, you cheated! Us pleps don't have rattle-wrenches