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  • cam chain breaking tool

    I am in preparation (still) for replacing my cam chain... I need a chain breaker and riveting tool... I am looking at getting a motionpro tool that says it is for a 420-630 chain. I don't know what that means. Can I assume it will work for the cam chain on an XS? TIA
    Dave Hogue
    1978 XS1100E "Sticky Fingers" (down, but not out)
    1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C "Phacops" (the everyday ride)
    1982 Honda CB750 Custom (the toy)
    Kennesaw, GA
    home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-dwhogue
    updated November 22, 2001

  • #2
    Dave,

    I have this tool from Motion Pro:



    Chain Breaker & Riveting Tool
    This tool is versatile enough to be used on cam chains to drive chains. It will break chains from #35 to #630. For chain 520 and up, it is recommended to grind the rivet head. Each kit includes 3 pin sizes to fit most chains. The body bolt and body have been improved and strengthened to meet the standards of chains made these days. This kit is recommended for light- to medium-duty use. Replacement pins & tips available separately.
    Part Number: 08-0058 Sug. Ret: $101.10


    I have used it on my XS cam chain and on HD 530 drive chains (it won't break a 530, but will rivet it, I had to cut the peens with a die grinder first.) Was about $70 from Zanotti's, should be the only chain tool I ever need.
    Gary Granger
    Remember, we are the caretakers of mechanical art.
    2013 Suzuki DR650SE, 2009 Kawasaki Concours 1400, 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille Tuono

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    • #3
      Thanks...

      There's one on ebay right now for about $70... looks like I'm going shopping!
      Dave Hogue
      1978 XS1100E "Sticky Fingers" (down, but not out)
      1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C "Phacops" (the everyday ride)
      1982 Honda CB750 Custom (the toy)
      Kennesaw, GA
      home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-dwhogue
      updated November 22, 2001

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      • #4
        Check out

        http://www.partsnmore.com

        under tools
        Gary
        79sf
        78e

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        • #5
          Wow... half the price of what I've seen elsewhere... so of course it is out of stock! Don't want to wait too long. I'll give them a day or two and then I'll go to Zanotti's. That's for turning me on to that site, though... great prices!
          Dave Hogue
          1978 XS1100E "Sticky Fingers" (down, but not out)
          1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C "Phacops" (the everyday ride)
          1982 Honda CB750 Custom (the toy)
          Kennesaw, GA
          home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-dwhogue
          updated November 22, 2001

          Comment


          • #6
            Cam chains

            I used a drummel tool to shear-off the link heads Dave ,at work we use chain breakers and sometimes mini-grinders on heavy chains on industrial machinery.
            Of course guard against debris falling in to the engine. To join the link in the new chain is quite easy and again we use the same technique at work when flaring tools are not available, use a centre punch to start flaring the link then use an 3/16 th. punch to finish flaring (this is a 2 person procedure).....but if you have the tool that Gary uses, your all set.

            Bruce
            Bruce Doucette
            Phone #1 902 827 3217

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            • #7
              Re: Cam chains

              Originally posted by desert1
              .....use a centre punch to start flaring the link then use an 3/16 th. punch to finish flaring (this is a 2 person procedure).....but if you have the tool that Gary uses, your all set.

              Bruce
              Awesome, Bruce... thanks. Question... how do you know when the pin is flared enough ?
              Dave Hogue
              1978 XS1100E "Sticky Fingers" (down, but not out)
              1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C "Phacops" (the everyday ride)
              1982 Honda CB750 Custom (the toy)
              Kennesaw, GA
              home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-dwhogue
              updated November 22, 2001

              Comment


              • #8
                Chain breakers

                Here is the procedure in more detail Dave.....when your joining link is in place and your "keeper plate" is installed over the link your helper will use a either a rod made of steel or iron to keep the backside of the link in place while you flare it from the front. This rod should be the diameter of the link in size and your helper should keep good weight on it while you flare the indent in the joining link with your centre punch. Three solid taps will be enough to flare the head of the link one third of its diameter, next use a 3/16 ths punch to pien the link head down so it resembles the appearance and size of any other link head.....be carefull that your helper understands to keep pressure until you are finished, you dont want to bend or break your cam chain gears. You both have to work as one when doing this, my helper was my younger brother.

                I've used this procedure many times at work Dave so to answer your question maybe its experience that tells when enough is is enough, perhaps by the time you read this "Ole Sticky" is up n runnin the roads....well I hope so. My ole 78 is away for the winter but I used the above procedure on my camchain project a year and a half ago and its been fine ever since.
                Bruce
                Alpha 78 XS1100
                Bruce Doucette
                Phone #1 902 827 3217

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                • #9
                  You can get the same kit at www.650motorcycles.com/mikesxs.html Part Number is 35-0112 and costs $35.
                  Bill Murrin
                  Nashville, TN
                  1981 XS1100SH "Kick in the Ass"
                  1981 XS650SH "Numb in the Ass"
                  2005 DL1000 V-Strom "WOW"
                  2005 FJR1300 Newest ride
                  1993 ST1100 "For Sale $2,700" (Sold)
                  2005 Ninja 250 For Sale $2,000 1100 miles

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