Hydraulic Clutch Mod (finally complete)

[pggg]

Good stuff 81' the VF honda cylinder would suit it's own plunger setup, the thinner the cylinder the softer the feel, fatter cylinders give the stiffer feel, like your lathe

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jesse,

This thread is NOW in the Tips Under Construction section. It needs a little more polishing, though! Where's WildKat?

What did you use to whittle down the aluminum on your Redneck Lathe??

The OEM cover is only about .10" thick, so you're probably right in that it could be a bit difficult to mount the slave piston onto, being slightly curved on the outside. But wondering if the 5/16" thick plate is overkill?

Would be nice to know what kind of pressure/load the piston is exerting, and someone with much more metallurgy structural knowledge than I to tell "US" what thickness aluminum plate would be sufficient, ie. 1/4", 3/16", 5/32", etc.?

Also want to look into some aftermarket supply for the matched slave/MC set, cost, where to get, etc. vs. trying to mix and match on the "Bay"!

Then "we" can add this info to the tip and post it in all it's GLORY!
T.C.

[81xsproject]

I am flattered about the UK link.

I used an old file hosed down with WD40.

I am sure that the plate is a little overkill. But, I wouldn't personally go under 1/4". I will leave that to the enginerds though (just kidding).

After having made a long ride this weekend, I love it. I think that it is definitely softer than it was with the cable, but because there is absolutely NO resistance to movement, you notice it while holding it for a long time. I also noticed a definite increase in smooth shift consistency, too. I defiantly recommend going with a V-Max master just because there is ton of oem and aftermarket stuff still available.

[xschop]

slavin

Very nice mod Project. Did Mathh ever chime into what his slave cyl. was? I agree with not going thinner than 1/4" plate...I may have a use for the 'busa clutch master after all.... I like the V-STAR stainless braid clutch cable on the Bluestreak, It made a world of diff. from the old stock cable and bolted straight on....I will def. consider this mod for the Yellowstreak if I don't put a twist clutch on it...Again, Nice Job

[81xsproject]

I asked Mathh which slave he used and he couldn't remember. However, I looked at pictures of his very close and I think that it may possibly be off an old wing...?

Here is a pic of his. It looks like for that slave he had to make a plate that extended out even farther.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jesse,

I did some research last night, and I don't think you'll want to use the Vmax unit. The diagram shows some strange shaped tube sticking out of it, and it doesn't look right!

I found a couple from the 85/86/90 FJ1100/1200 as well as the
88/90 FZR1000. The previous has a triangular shaped unit, the latter has one that looks like Mathh's round one! Here are the prices, and the BikeBandit/Fiche diagrams, they are still obtainable, along with the handlebar MC.
I priced the lines, the ones with the metal section in the middle was over $100, some shorter ones were about $50.00 but they didn't state how long they were.

Sorry the images are so large!
The prices are from www.cycle-parts.com and BikeBandit.

85/86/90 FJ1100/1200 Triangular Shaped Slave
#36Y-16381-10-00 PUSH LEVER COMP. =$98.61/BB$104.93
3BV-26450-00-00 Clutch MC Complete=$91.14/BB$101.83



88/90 FZR1000 Round Shaped Slave
1TV-16381-10-00 PUSH LEVER COMP. =$68.47/BB$72.86
3BV-26450-10-00 Clutch MC Complete


T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jesse,

I just reread your post, and you said the FJ1100 slave was too big?? How did you determine that? The one on Mathh's looks just like the diagram from BikeBandit/Yamaha, and looks very similar in size to the one you used?
T.C.

[Shuriken]

Awesome.

[GNEPIG]

Great job Jessy! It looks like it belongs on the bike. Good choice for break fluid also, DOT 3 and DOT4 are some messy stuff.

[81xsproject]

I bought an fj slave and had it in my hands. It would have protruded out above the surface of the cover at least 2 inches. The VF is MUCH lower profile at less than an inch and the depth that it intruded below the inner cover surface was PERFECT.

That master in the diagram above looks EXACTLY like the one I used from the FJ and that slave from the FZR looks just like the one from Mathh's bike.

I liked the idea of having a Yamaha master up on the bars, so I didn't even look into the VF master. Even if the VF master would make the clutch a little softer, I don't think I would switch. I really like my setup and thing the clutch master combo is a good one.

Thanks pig, I really like the DOT5. There is something nice about spilling a little down the side of the master or slave and not freaking out about it eating paint off anything it touches.

[Shappers]

Hi Guys,

I love this thread as it lets me know how to sort out the pushrod!

Just wanted to let you know that I bought an FZR1000 ThunderAce slave cylinder for this mod. It is almost identical to the VF800 and is only 21mm thick or 0.82".

This might help people who want to keep the bike all Yamaha..

[goldcoastguy001]

Hey, Awesome mod. Will be doing that one right away.......waaaaayyyyyyy to easy not to do The slave you used is the same slave that is on my Honda VT250F (Heaps of them at the wreckers too.) The Master cyl off the Honda VT250F is also identical to the yam'y one you used, I'll be doing this mod next weekend and will use both the master cyl & Slave cyl from a Honda VT250F. If you look on ebay (or in the Bone yards you guys have) you'll find these bike parts both used and new are very cheap and plentiful........The other cool thing is that the master doesnt have anything written on it just the normal Dot rating and filling advise and the front brake master off the same bike bolts on (also they used that same style levers) Cheers again........did i say AWESOME MOD???......ok then I'll say it again, AWESOME MOD!...

[81xsproject]

I just thought I would throw in an update after having ridden in for a while now. I am still loving it and have come to a new conclusion about the force needed to engage the clutch. I feel like it is actually much lighter than it was with the cable. You really notice when shifting (which it has also done amazing things for shifting smoothness). However, when you are at a light and holding it for a long time, it feels harder, like with the cable. I think that with the cable, even the little bit of resistance in the cable provided you a little stickiness that made holding the clutch seem easier. With the hydro, there is nothing but hand strength holding the clutch engage. I am sure the extra steel plate, new frictions, and heavy clutch springs don't make it any easier.

[Mathh]

Originally posted by 81xsproject
I just thought I would throw in an update after having ridden in for a while now. I am still loving it and have come to a new conclusion about the force needed to engage the clutch. I feel like it is actually much lighter than it was with the cable. You really notice when shifting (which it has also done amazing things for shifting smoothness). However, when you are at a light and holding it for a long time, it feels harder, like with the cable. I think that with the cable, even the little bit of resistance in the cable provided you a little stickiness that made holding the clutch seem easier. With the hydro, there is nothing but hand strength holding the clutch engage. I am sure the extra steel plate, new frictions, and heavy clutch springs don't make it any easier.

Eat more bacon !

[lsippell]

I thought I would do this hydraulic clutch modification and found a slave cylinder on eBay but at the time there wasn’t a clutch master cylinder listed. Well I went ahead and machined a mounting plate (drilled a recess so the spring mounting tab didn’t have to be cut off) and trial fitted it. Still wasn’t any master cylinders listed that I wanted (trying to find one made for the slanted handlebars on my XJ) so I decided to rebuild my clutch with new friction plates, springs and an extra metal plate while waiting. After riding it with the new clutch I have decided I like it the way it is.

I also manage to convert my ‘unified brakes’ to both front disk on the front master cylinder (one off of a 1986 Virago 700) and the rear on the rear like God meant them to be to be

If someone here wants to do this mod, I’ll let this backing plate and slave cylinder go for what I have invested in the slave cylinder and the aluminum which is $37.10, plus a flat rate Priority Mail shipping of $8.95

I guess the older I get the lazier I get. I just really didn’t want to pull the fairing and the tank and run a steel line.

Louis