bogus box

[thewiz]

It seems that simply trying to get the airbox in place has turned out to be the biggest PITA on the whole bike yet .... Have spent several hours over the last two days wearing out my thumbs attempting to install the air box in my SF.

At the beginning, I tried with the carbs already installed in the boots on the head, but couldn't get things to line up right and slide together. Figured I could loosen the carbs from the boots and would be no sweat then. Nope. Finally pulled the carbs and octy all the way out and still couldn't get 'em to hook up ... even with both parts in my lap ..... now, is there a secret here or do I just need 4 hands? Can't find it in Clymer or in other posts.

Perhaps the unit is tweaked a bit ... there is a small amount of distortion on the top section ... probably from over torquing of the wing nuts on the bottom section, heat etc. .... but it LOOKS like it should go togther. Could this box be bogus? What is the right process for getting the air box back into position?

[John]

One trick I have done is to reach up into the open airbox, and grab the end of the offending air boot and give it a twist to better align it with the carb, then you can push that particular boot onto the carb easier. I also use the 90 degree end of a scribe to unroll a boot if it should fold up when the carb is inserted. I also lube the ID of the boot prior to assembly. I often wonder why I read that so many guys have a difficult time pulling and re-installing the carbs.
Another trick is to bend the upper mount of the airbox out of the way before trying to pull the airbox away from the carbs. After bending the mount foward, I just roll the front of the AB down and off the carbs. I then just pull the airbox back, and rock the carbs up and down a couple of times, while pulling back on them. After they pop out of the manifold boots, I slide them to the left and when they are about half way out, I remove the trottle cable, and finish sliding them out. Re-assemble in reverse order. Pretty easy actually.

[skids]

Here is what I do:

Make sure that the 4 screws on the bracket on top of the airbox are loosened a little. All ringclamps must be loosened on the manifold boots and on the airbox boots. The screws on the sides of the airbox to mount to the frame need to be removed. (Actually these things are done to remove the carbs but are worth mentioning here just in case.)

Push the airbox off of the top mount and tip the box downward. (another thing mentioned here for carb removal just in case.

Snake the carbs into the space.

It might help if you use some WD40 on the manifold sides of the carbs to slip into the boots.

Set the manifold side on the boots but do not put all the way in yet, hod the carbs in the tilted position.

Hook the throttle cable onto the carbs. If you forget this, you will spend countless hours cursing yourself.

Push the carbs into the manifold boots.

Bring up the airbox, lining up the rubber boots with the bells of the carbs and push them in.

Use a big, flat-tipped screwdriver to bring the top airbox bracket onto the mounting tab on the frame.

Hook up any hoses and tighten all screws and bolts. But I found the the ones on the sides and tops should be tightened before the ringclamps.

[fredintoon]

Use yer trashcan

Hi Wiz,
trashcan that ugly waste of space & fit four UNIpods. This very list will tell you how to re-jet & support the carbs.
Your bleeding knuckles will thank you.
The space now available for inline gas filters and easy kink-free curves in your gas lines will make your carbs happy. As will being able to r&r the carbs without wasting an entire day doing it and having to book a space at the emergency clinic in case bandaids won't fix your minor injuries this time round.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[underdog57]

If the air box is totaly out , put it back in with the carbs out ..
let the air box set not on the bracket , let it set in the space for it loosley . I have take the battery out to get the snorkel in ...let it hang by the snorkel ...

You can then put the carbs on ....throttle cable on first ...
pop em in , might help to get them started on one end first ...

Like has been written by the guys , is loosen the screws to the airbox front bracket ... I get both thumbs and push the front bracket forward and down so that it clears the hanger tab .
Once you get that trick the rest has been covered ...

Its not bad after dozens of times !!

Hope that helps

Now to get my carbs in order ...so I'll be practicing what I preach ...

Bob

[underdog57]

Originally posted by underdog57
If the air box is totaly out , put it back in with the carbs out ..
let the air box set not on the bracket , let it set in the space for it loosley . I have taken the battery out to get the snorkel in ...let it hang by the snorkel ...

You can then put the carbs on ....throttle cable on first ...
pop em in , might help to get them started on one end first ...

Like has been written by the guys , is loosen the screws to the airbox front bracket ... I get both thumbs and push the front bracket forward and down so that it clears the hanger tab .
Once you get that trick the rest has been covered ...

Its not bad after dozens of times !!

Hope that helps

Now to get my carbs in order ...so I'll be practicing what I preach ...

Bob

[JWSanders]

Originally posted by skids
Here is what I do:

Hook the throttle cable onto the carbs. If you forget this, you will spend countless hours cursing yourself.

That man speaks The Truth!!! Preach on, brother....

That's pretty much how I do it too.

It took several dozen attempts before I found the right trick to getting them in. They're definately a tight fit.

I thought about going to pods but after buying the K&N airbox filter, I decided to keep it. It just looks better, IMHO...

[thewiz]

Ok .... thanks to all of the advice and a second pair of hands that showed up, it's on. Whew. Perhaps, like Bob says, it gets easier

Fred, I want to see how this thing runs before I start makin' changes .... bike was pretty much of a basket case when I bought it last fall. I will keep the PODS in mind though .... it already has a non-factory 4-2 exh. Hmmmm