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  • Rear Wheel Removal

    Does anyone have a picture or drawing of the cable to hold the rear wheel up so the axle can be removed. Mine was lost long ago and can't get a new one so have to get one made
    TA

  • #2
    Try one of the microfiche pages.... there should be some link in the tech tips section... off site tips or sources.
    There's a drawing of all the tools u got with the bike.

    LP
    If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
    (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

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    • #3
      Tried the fiches but no luck. search on
      Thanks

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      • #4
        You don't realy need the cable. I found it to be more of a PITA than it's worth. I only used mine the first time, haven't used it since in 17 years.
        Highlander

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        • #5
          Do you move the wheel above or below the exhaust to remove the axle? I've been raising it above but have to remove the grab rail and shocks to do so, kind of a pain in the butt.
          Robert
          79 SF

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          • #6
            I put the bike on the center stand on a 2 X 4, to get a little more height. Then I loosen the exhaust, and raise it above the axle. Once the axle is removed, remove the spacer, and the wheel should drop down and sideways out of the frame. The brake caliper assembly gets removed in there somewhere. I forget the exact details, but once you get started, it's not too hard to figure out. I will be doing it again in the spring. Getting the new tire on is a tighter fit, due to the extra tread. I sometimes let the air out until it's installed.
            Highlander

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dwales
              I put the bike on the center stand on a 2 X 4, to get a little more height. Then I loosen the exhaust, and raise it above the axle. Once the axle is removed, remove the spacer(snip)
              I have removed a bolt from each of the rear shocks to drop the axle below the exhaust pipes. No spring tension is required.
              Skids (Sid Hansen)

              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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              • #8
                I removed the shock bolts once, then had the problem of raising the wheel again. I rigged a couple of boards so I could lever the wheel back up. Make a lever / fulcrum and slip one end under the wheel. Then step on the lever to raise the wheel.

                Once I got my 4-1, two bolts and I take the megaphone off. I also hang the rear brake by a wire from the rear grab rail when I take it off. No stress on the brake line.
                Marty in NW PA
                Gone - 1978E - one of the first XS11 made
                Gone - 2007A FJR - the only year of Dark Red Metallic
                This IS my happy face.

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                • #9
                  I have a standard 4into2 it's just that the cable makes life easier. Hardly ever use it but needed to a little while ago. That's why I am after the cable
                  Does not look like I am going to have much luck
                  Ta to all

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                  • #10
                    Cables a cable

                    Used brute force and ignorance every time I've done it in the past. Once you've sussed which way you can get the axle out all the rest is easy - apart from the lifting back in part.

                    But I can see how lifting the swinging arm with a cable can help - particularly when replacing.

                    Have a look for a good, strong points to fix / hook to on the back end of the bike and try using ratchet straps (the type you secure loads with on cars - trailers - trucks etc).

                    Failing that maybe some rope tied somewhere appropriately would help. As 'dwales' above says - once you get started it's fairly simple to see what you need to do - whether it's when the rear brake caliper needs to come off or what to fix rope / straps to so you can lift the wheel and/or swing arm up.

                    Will certainly rig something up myself as these day with my backs not so good after a slip-disc caused by lifting a bike wheel into place, so now I'm a bit wary.
                    XS1.1 sport - Sold June 2005 :-(
                    Guzzi 850
                    Z1000

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                    • #11
                      Hey Folks,,
                      All you gotta do is remove the caliper,,,then undo the triangle piece of metal that holds the caliper move that off the mount up the swing arm,,,pullit up and outta the way,,, pull the axle,, and the wheel will drop right out,,,,,I have had my wheel out many times and this has worked quick and painless. Going back in its just as easy.
                      Ken Krieger
                      Chesterfield, Va.
                      81 XS1100SH - Radar Rider
                      82 XJ1100J - Black and Blue
                      82 XJ1100J - Bucket o Bolts
                      79 XS1100SF - Road Raider
                      1980 XS1100 - Frankenbike
                      85 XJ700 Maxim
                      06 VMax - Black Max
                      85 650 Nighthawk

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                      • #12
                        Ken, you are under estimating the work involved for the models that have long pipes. The 81 model that you have has shorter pipes if it is stock.



                        Originally posted by kenkrieger
                        Hey Folks,,
                        All you gotta do is remove the caliper,,,then undo the triangle piece of metal that holds the caliper move that off the mount up the swing arm,,,pullit up and outta the way,,, pull the axle,, and the wheel will drop right out,,,,,I have had my wheel out many times and this has worked quick and painless. Going back in its just as easy.
                        Skids (Sid Hansen)

                        Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well Yamaha can't help so I will have to just keep looking. I am trying to get the bike back to as original as possible, (unlike me) with all it's bits still intact

                          Thanks to all for the suggestions

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                          • #14
                            Have two XS's with intact tool kits, might consider sending you extra cable to have one made, NO you can't keep it. Could also photo copy it and send full size picture, (I love leaching off the company toys).
                            When a 10 isn't enough, get a 11. 80g Hardbagger

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                            • #15
                              Ok Skids,,
                              Underestimate accepted,,,,so lets see you have to drop the pipes, on my bike takes all of about 10 minutes and no more stuff in front of the axles, for you standard riders,,,all of this is dependant on what you are used to,, I have taken my whole bike down to nothing in 4 hours or so. So this does not hit me as to much work,,,,my apologies if I have offended anyones delicate standard sensiblilities,,,,,,,lol,,,,,, you all have a good night.
                              Ken Krieger
                              Chesterfield, Va.
                              81 XS1100SH - Radar Rider
                              82 XJ1100J - Black and Blue
                              82 XJ1100J - Bucket o Bolts
                              79 XS1100SF - Road Raider
                              1980 XS1100 - Frankenbike
                              85 XJ700 Maxim
                              06 VMax - Black Max
                              85 650 Nighthawk

                              Comment

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