just dont wanna start

[batosai6969]

so my dad just gave me a 1980 xs1100g in pretty good condition motor was all rebuilt about 3 years ago then stored. He told me it had a carb {issue}... probably just needed to be sync'd well i built one of those cool little balance tools from here with the pvc and the fish tank parts..works really good by the way..only problem is i cant even get the bike to stay runnin long enough to warm up. Very hard to get started, does not even try to start with the choke on..have airbox off now to check on carbs. spits real bad out of one and four when runnin...give it any gas at all while tryin to start and it just cranks..carbs were all gone through and floats redone they seem to work but seems super rich. sputters and pops real bad at low and mid throttle only time it runs good is if you rap it in the 4 to 6 grand range...any help would be GREATLY appreciated its a pretty clean bike and sounds strong would love to be able to ride...thanks in advance..Matthew

[planedick]

Spark

Sounds like you lost ignition to 1 & 4, which is the same pickup and same coil.

[batosai6969]

sounds good but then why would it run perfect at higher rpm's??

[Incubus]

Because it's running without a load. They can sound real good running on two cylinders when they're not trying to actually move the bike.

Patrick

[trbig]

Pull your plugs one at a time, put the wire on it and hold the plug against ground... see if you have spark on all four when you crank it. If you do...

In the 4-6 grand range, you have gotten into your main jets and the others aren't doing much. It sounds to me like your pilot circuit/ jet and probably your enrichener circuit is still dirty.

Click here Carbs Click on the links provided in it and read it through. There's also some picture links to show you where the enrichener circuit is. Your pilot jet will sit in the middle of the carb along with the main jet, and sits lower than the main does as you're looking at it from the bowl side of the carbs. Just clean these out really good. If you take the floats back out, there's a screen under your needle valve that gets plugged sometimes too. I think this will solve your problems.

While your carbs are out, and before you get them installed back, do a bench synch on them. This will get you pretty close... then finish up with an actual synch on the bike.

Tod

[batosai6969]

thanks very much for the input...no hurry but if you get a chance could you go over the bench sync with me..ive worked on cars for a long time but am pretty new to bikes this will be the first one ive actully gotten into...thanks loads

[batosai6969]

so i checked out the spark issue...1 and 4 will spark off the case from a good inch away....2 and 3 are there but significantly less impressive in both power and distance...should i check the coil of is some spark good enough....?

[trbig]

Some people use the wire twist tie off a loaf of bread, and with the carbs on the bench, they adjust them all the same using the tie as a gauge... so there is slight pressure on the tie as it is being pulled between the throat of the carb and the butterfly valve.

The way I personally prefer, is while the carbs are on your bench still, look at where the butterfly valve is compared to the small hole in the throat on the bottom (This would be the top side of the throat when the carbs are right side up) The #3 butterfly is only adjustable by the main idle speed screw attached to the bar that connects the carbs together. I wouldn't mess with that on the bench. Just set the others to exactly the same placement compared to that small hole. There will be three small holes there, but it will be close to or split just one of them... here's where I mean.



You'll have to adjust #4, but when adjusting #1 and #2, adjust #2 first, then #1. Any adjusting on #2 will also move the #1 butterfly. If spark isn't your problem, this will get you running if the carbs are indeed cleaned.
It's a bit blurry, but you get the idea. I can get the synch really close using this method.

Good luck.

Tod

[trbig]

That sounds more to me like the others were correct then. You should get a good hot spark from all four. I don't have the same type of pickups as the XS, so these guys can guide you in that better than me.


Tod

[batosai6969]

so whats the best way to test the coil,, and what kind of readings should i expect???

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there MR

First, want to say welcome to the world of Xsives!

Secondly, for FUTURE help requests and such, it's advised to edit your profile to include the YEAR and MODEL=Special/Standard in your Profile or your signature so folks can provide model specific info and instructions.

Now....PLEASE take some time, go to the MAIN FORUM PAGE, and then scroll down the page, you will see several sections labelled TECH TIPS! There are Maintainance, Repairs, and Mods, and even a MISC. section!

There are several on trouble shooting ignition, carb and other common problems, usually with nifty pictures and such! Please read them.

Then, come to the tech disc. forum, and USE THE SEARCH, it actually works, use several words like "ignition coil readings" or such...at least 3 letters long for each word, and see what you find, many topics have been discussed 'ad nauseum'.

Then, if and when you can't find what you're looking for, or need clarification on something, feel free to post a request for help.

BTW, you'll find info on ohm testing the ignition spark plug coils thru the plug wires, WITHOUT the caps, also testing the caps, and the primary + and - wires to help determine the status of the coil. Also, corrosion can build up where the spark plug cap fits onto the wire, removing cap, trimming 1/4" from the end, and putting the cap back on can improve spark quality. The resistor in the caps....if resistor type...oem were, can go bad, corroded, and can also contribute to poor spark.

[batosai6969]

so maybe i should check out the pickup and coil on numbers 3 and 4 since those are the ones with significantly less spark??

[fredintoon]

Plugs?

I'm getting my '80 XS11 Special running again after a 2-year downtime. Cleaned & cleaned the carbs over & over. It'd start then it wouldn't, then it'd run funny, then it ran fine and then it only ran on 3 & 4 and that HAS to be carbs, right? Wrong! Four shiny new sparkplugs and it starts every time & runs great! I don't say YOUR problem has to be plugs but it pays to check everything.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[HobbyMan]

Many people complain of popping and sputtering when they try to run without the airbox. The bike was designed to run with the airbox, without it or pod filters, you will be lean. Second, what do you mean by "give it any gas while cranking?" There is no accel pump on these carbs so if you are just twisting the throttle, you are just letting more air in. Were you running it with the sync tool on when it was "spitting" out of 1 and 4? If you weren't, make sure the little rubber plugs are over the brass inlet on the intake boots. On that note, if they are on, make sure they are sealing properly. How are your intake boots? if they are cracked severely, put some silicon or electrical tape over them, or both. Don't use liquid electrical tape, it bubbles off. Here's my take on the ignition. Pull the left engine cover and pull on the wires while its running. If it quits, you have a problem and you need to replace the wires. The "how too" is on the forum under repairs/"pickup coil wire fix." If it does not quit, make sure to replace them as soon as you get it running ok because you are going to need to do it eventually.

[skids]

Hobbyman is right about pulling the "choke" lever out and giving it no twist on the throttle until it is running. Personally, I would stay away from using electrical tape on the intake manifold boots. I have the idea that it would cause a stick, gooey mess. I had good success using "brake clean" or something that is not going to eat rubber, and then used RTV Ultra Black and coat the boots liberally. My boots are in their 9th year after doing that!