I am at wits end with my carburator!!!

[markjs]

I bought an old '81 XS1100 and the #3 cylinder's carb constantly pukes gas and fouls the plug and doesnt run. I have cleaned the **** out of it and set the float height and I know it floats because at times it works fine but invariably it eventually starts leaking gas out the airbox, and stops running on that cyclinder.....I have had fuel filters on it from the get-go too nothing helps!!! has anyone else ever fixed this problem? I am about to dump my XS off a cliff somewhere!

[markjs]

I also note that the floats are unremoveable. I cannot get the pin out that holds the float in. I have tried every method I can think of but no-go The seem to be permanently hydraulically pressed into place so inspection of the needle and seat is 100% impossible.

[prometheus578]

I am at wits end with my carburator!!!

Well, at least you didn't have far to travel!
(I know, be nice... he's a newer member)
Mark, you need new float needles, but you probably already know that.
You are now up against the infamous stuck float pin. Many methods are tried and many have failed. The end of the pin, the end with the "head" on it has a larger diameter than the rest of the pin. For some reason Mikuni thought that this was a good idea. It isn't.
Try using the smallest, sharpest pair of wire cutters that you can find to get behind the head and lightly wiggle/pry it out. I've even taken a small file to the tower/post that holds it... trying to undercut behind the head to get a better grip.
Many attempt to use a punch and hammer from the other side to push the pin out. This is often successful... and often successful in breaking off the post that holds the pin. (Done that many times, so there is no shame involved. A lot of cursing, but no shame) Many tips on how to repair the damage.
Some people have had a lot of success using a spring loaded center punch. I would recommend finding some way to brace the post first, so not too much sideward force is applied.

[fredintoon]

Getting the pin out

Hatred will only give you gas. Like mine,
gas all over the garage floor. Effin' carbs.
BUT, I do know how to get the float pivot pins out, courtesy of Bill Denton the YAM650 list owner. Go buy a good quality automatic centrepunch.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
catalog page 2236
Shows you the tool. Any good tool shop will stock them.
Push it's point onto the pin end of the pivot, brace the carb against something solid and shove the punch in until it goes click. This will shock-load the pin into moving. The stubbornest pin I ever met took 4 clicks to start it moving.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[Shuriken]

Check out these links

The float pin IS removable, but it must be done carefully.

You may also want to check out this post.

There could be some gunk that sticks the float needle open. A common thing on these old bikes is for the gas tank to be rusty. Even with filters, sometimes you end up with rust/junk in the carbs. You can spend all day cleaning the carbs but if the tank and lines aren't clean, it's all for naught.

Ben

[Yamaniac]

might help to fill out your profile/tell us where you are from. With a little luck, you might be close to someone on here that would be happy to help you out.
Have never tried the center punch method, but have had good luck with the side cutter method.

[markjs]

Ok I got the float pin out by tapping it with the point of a woodscrew and gently tapping that with the end of my screwdriver. The needle is slightly pitted. All the other cylinders run fine so I intend not to mess with them. So the question is, can I get the needle at an auto store or will I absolutely have to wait til the Honda shop opens on Tuesday?

[trbig]

No, you won't be able to get one at an auto store. You can order them from Partsnmore.com, but there's a minumum 35 dollar order.

How big an ol' boy are ya?? You could always drive a couple hours south to Olympia and either ask Prometheus for one... or beat it out of him!? lol. But you would be better off just getting a new one. But the satisfaction of the beating may be worth the trip alone now that I think about it! lol.. OOPS... Sorry Pro.... how ya doin' ol' buddy ol' pal?!?



Tod

[markjs]

Well, being flat broke and needing only one needle I guess it's wait til tommorrow especially as the bike is my only mode of transpo.....

.....Lucky I live right by Port Townsend Honda....

[Snow]

Bikebandit also has the pins, no min order.

[markjs]

WOW it's like $30 just for the part because of course you must get a new seat with the needle!

Guess I won't be riding for a while.....

[81xsproject]

do your self a HUGE favor while you have those pins out. Put the small end in the chuck of a dremel or screw-gun or drill (something that spins) and with a file, while it is spinning away, file the flattened head down so it is just one long rod. Also go ahead and with the file or some 220-320 sandpaper, work on that fattened end until the pin slides easily into place. You don't have to worry about the pin coming loose or popping out because the sides of the bowl are made to prevent the pin from going anywhere. This will not only make setting float heights way faster and easier, but will assure that you never risk breaking the post again.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Mark,

Along with the Viton/rubber tipped float needle valve, you'll want to pull out the needle SEAT. There's an O-ring around the base, and they, too, can shrink, leak and act just like the needle valve leaking! Whilel you have the seat out, pull the little screen off the end and spray clean it as well!

BTW, you say it's an 81, but you said the needle tip has pits? If you have a solid needle the PO may have swapped carbs on you, or used the wrong type of needle valve?

You'll want to verify that you have the 81 carbs. There are 4 holes/vents in the inlet side of the carb inlet bell. They will only have 1 "T" fitting which is for the fuel, right at the float bowl level. You may see holes/recesses where they used to use a second set of "T's" for bowl vents, but were replace with that 4th inlet bell hole/vent.

The earlier style carbs with only 3 ports, and the extra "T" DID use the all metal float needle valve! Good luck!
T.C.

[markjs]

Well it's fixed, and parts cost........$0!!!

It turned out those valves were all gunked by the o-ring and I simply cleaned them out and.....VOILLA! "She run like a scalded dawg!!!"

Took me like 5 removals of the carbs though to get her all sorted out....I'll be holding a clinic on fast swap of carbs on the XS1100 this weekend LOL!

PS Those "pits" was just the groove in the rubber where it hits the valve seat.....

[prometheus578]

No, No, No...!

Somebody stop him!
I bet ya 4 free float needles that your carbs leak before the summer's over.
No, I changed my mind... What's in it for me if I win?
You can get the needles without the seats anywhere. Go to the dealer and ask fer float needles. Might be about $5 per.
Vitron tipped: #18-8944
Steel tipped: #18-8956
Yes, T.C.... K&L Supply.
Those pits/grooves means they're worn and should be tossed.
Replace them all.
"Heed my warning, lest evil befall you."