OK new problem, Everything is great until I get to cruising speed on the freeway. It get's there quick, but then it loses all power after a couple minutes. It then surges every five or six seconds like it's getting power back. If I slow down below 50 everything goes back to normal. I don't get it. bad carb parts? Bad float setting? Bad vacuum? HELP PLEASE!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
no guts!
Collapse
X
-
Another thought, I had exactly the same issue after I shimmed my needles. Right at 50-55mph it would surge while cruzing. If I accelerated it would go away and I didn't have it above or below that range. Sounds like a fuel mixture problem to me. I think if it was the tank cap the bike would eventually stall out from what I have heard from all the other tank venting accounts.'81 XS1100 SH
Melted to the ground during The Valley Fire
Sep. 12th 2015
RIP
Comment
-
just a guess, but i had them same sort of prob, unplugged the line to the vacuum advance ( going into the ignition cover left of engine) capped the nipple, got a lot better.1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
My Photo Bucket
Comment
-
dang it. You guys reply too fast. cloerts, how does it run above 50? What is it like in the 90 range?United States Merchant Marine Academy, Kings Point, NY
If I can do it at 18 yrs old, anyone can
"You know something, You can't polish a turd"
"What are you rebelling against", "Well, what do you got?"
Acta Non Verba
Comment
-
I agree, that only helps figure out what is going, I've since replaced the vacuum module, bike is still in basement getting a make-over, plus being that i live in mid-michigan IT'S TOO DANG COLD OUT RIGHT NOW TO RIDE, But Spring is coming1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
My Photo Bucket
Comment
-
If it's not the advance, check the fuel line routing. If you have both lines "pinched" once the tank is all the way on, you won't be able to flow the fuel needed to really run. This can be caused by TO LONG A FUEL LINE.
Just my guess.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
Comment
-
You can really tell if your flow is good by opening all of the float bowl drains and setting the petcocks to prime. Check the amount of fuel draining out of the bowls. They should all be about the same. Make sure the engine is not hot when you do this. I don't want to be resposible for a burned bike.United States Merchant Marine Academy, Kings Point, NY
If I can do it at 18 yrs old, anyone can
"You know something, You can't polish a turd"
"What are you rebelling against", "Well, what do you got?"
Acta Non Verba
Comment
-
Well, yes and no. Prime flow will let you know if the line is kinked or the inline filter is clogged. I see he has a model G with auto-petcocks. That being the case, it is possible that the vacuum line is crapped out of maybe the diaphragm leaks badly. Sometimes the oring of the plunger can stick to the seat. You can test that one by disconnecting the vacuum hose from the manifold nipple and suck on the end to open its flow. If someone has sealed the tank, the petcock filter tower can get clogged (or with rust) and if that is the case, I suspect that Prime setting would show reduced flow, just as Run (or is that "On" on the standard?) would.
Originally posted by HobbyMan
You can really tell if your flow is good by opening all of the float bowl drains and setting the petcocks to prime. Check the amount of fuel draining out of the bowls. They should all be about the same. Make sure the engine is not hot when you do this. I don't want to be resposible for a burned bike.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
Comment
Comment