getting into it

[rman]

Originally posted by joshua
....but when i hook the gas up and turn it on to prime I'm getting a pretty decent flow of gas right into the airbox. ....

Ummmmm I am kind of new at this but I think that when in prime gas always flows. Only when in run poisition then gas will flow only when a vacume is present, unless of course the petcocks are bad.

I may be wrong about this as I said I am new at this, I am sure someone will be along to correct me if I am wrong.

Ray

[randy]

Yes, rman, that is correct.

[joshua]

So the float won't shut the gas flow off while set on prime? If this is my only problem, I'll be thilled!

[TopCatGr58]

Sorry Joshua,

But the float valves SHOULD shut off the fuel flow, even on prime!

Have you boiled your floats to make sure that they are actually floating properly, and don't have small pinholes?? You put them into "almost" boiling water using something that you can push on them to submerge them, and then you look for a stream of little bubbles! IF you see bubbles, then it is leaking, and won't float properly, will slowly drop and allow fuel to overflow the bowls, carbs and eventually into the air box, or worse, into the engine and the oil!

Is the one leaking the one that had the broken float post?? I had one, repaired it, but didn't get it as straight as I should have, and it would occasionally hang and leak, flood, etc.! I rebroke it and reglued it straighter, and haven't had any problems since!!

Another thing that concerns me is what you said about O-rings? What O-rings? The 78 uses the flat washer under the screw in needle seat, and the solid metal floats needles!

Also, are you sure you have it plumbed right? The fuel lines go to the LOWER "T" fittings on the carbs. The Upper "T" fittings are just vents, they should be vented to air, either the box, or to a filtered "T" connector, but NOT PLUGGED. Also, if connected to the box, did you make sure the ports on the airbox were open and not clogged with grease/dirt/crud?? IF they are plugged, they will flood!!! Hang in there, you'll get it!!!
T.C.

[joshua]

So with 4 into 1 and individual filters, I ONLY need to change the mains? Nothing else? MikesXS has the mains at 12 for 2 pair and shipping is only $4, but if i need more, I might reach that free point. But if I don't need more, I'll go ahead and order them. Again, thanks for the help. I'm already smiling thinking about never having to put the air box back on!
As far as the floats, they don't seem to have any holes at all. The fuel lines are hooked up as they should be. I haven't checked for leaks by blowing air in yet...SWMBO hates the bike, so I have limited time to work on it. I kind of just showed up with the bike one day. Better to ask for forgiveness than beg for permission!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Joshua,

The guide suggests going up one size in the pilot jets, and MIKES carries those also, but many folks are able to just adjust the pilot screws and get good performance and response. But if you want to buy them ahead, you could. There are other nice goodies you can get from MIKES, like a nice chrome cover for the handlebar clamps, or new grips, etc.!
T.C.

[joshua]

Well, I ordered the individual filters. 54mm is the right size for 78. I thought I found the reason I was leaking gas. The diaphrams weren't seated properly. I got them seated and tested the carbs again. Seemed ok. Took the bike out and it seemed to run a lot better. I am still leaking out of the number one carb on the filter side. I'm hoping it's just not seated right again. I do have one more question....what do I do now with all of the vent lines that used to hook up with the air box?

[Ken Talbot]

The lines that come off of the upper "T"s are atmospheric vents for the float bowls. They need to be kept open, so you may want to put a small filter into the ends of them, and tie them up somewhere under the tank. If you plug them off or connect one "T" to the other, the bowls will not vent properly.

[joshua]

What is a good range for the bike to idle at when warmed up?

[mro]

78E....950 to 1050

No manual?

mro

[Ken Talbot]

Originally posted by joshua
What is a good range for the bike to idle at when warmed up?

I keep Tsunami around 800 to 900, which is probably a bit slower than most folks. When the signals stop blinking when I'm at a stop, I know it is time to clean a few connections. I generally keep SWMBO's 'H at about 1200 so her bottom-end torque is there for pulling away from a stop without hardly having to think about it. 800-900 is a bit too slow for pulling away without having to feed in a bit more.

[joshua]

Diver Ray wins!

So just about at the end of my willingness to keep working on this bike, I decide to give it one more shot before putting it up for sale. I went back over this whole post and it dawned on me....there was one trick I hadn't tried yet. I blew into the vents for #1 and #2 and of course, very very little air getting through. The whole thing from the "t" fitting to the filters was clogged with old nasty gummed up gas. I scraped and used air to clean it, put it all back together, and it RRRRRUNNNSSS! (noticed how I avoided saying I blew it?) I ran it for just 10 minutes to make sure it wasn't going to leak gas again and it's fine! Now I'll change out ALL of the oil to make sure there is no gas in it. After that, I just need to get the bike synched! Thanks to all of those who have helped!
Next question....what have others used as filters over the vents that used to go in the air box?

[joshua]

Oh, and I forgot to add...I've tried to adjust the idle, but it won't go below about 1200 to 1500, even when warmed up. I know the purists out there will say "That's why you don't take off the air box!". I'm no purist. It was broken, in the way, and not too cheap to replace. Should I first try to synch, or are there other adjustments to be made and then synch? Wish I could repay all the helpers with beer. Maybe once it's running I'll be able to make one of the rallys. Or start one maybe. Grand Canyon area, anyone? lol

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Joshua,

Folks have used inline fuel filters for vent caps.

IS the main idle thumbscrew turned out to where it isn't touching the base plate of the throttle plate? If so, then the synchronization "may" help. Sometimes the imbalance can cause the idle to run higher than it should. Have you tried pushing on the carb throttle plate to see if the idle would drop any?

Also, check to make sure all 4 butterflies are closing completely, if the presynch isn't close, the #3 butterfly "may" be not closing completely, and that can prevent the throttle plate from reaching the bottom, so that even backing the thumbscrew out so that it's not touching the plate won't lower the idle!

Hey, I like and use Indy filters, they are fine and I haven't found it hard to tune with them as other's have posted about!
T.C.