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  • Zddp?

    First the info I have followed by my question:

    Blatantly stolen from another forum I regularly vist:

    “The manufacturers of motor oil have reduced or eliminated almost all zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) from their products that are API-approved. These products have a circle with API and fuel savings shown on the label.

    This has been done to meet new emission standards and not destroy catalytic converters. This can have a very devastating effect on engines with flat tappets which are found in most the older cars. The new oils will destroy your engine. New and rebuilt engines have had total cam and tappet failure in less than 600 miles.

    It seems the ZDDP is a single molecule that is attracted to iron-based metals. The one polar end tends to make the molecule “stand up” on the metal surface it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metal of the cam and tappet from contacting each other. Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is squeezed or wiped form the surface. These pressures are also present on the wrist pins in Diesel engines. Diesels require ZDDP. The second factor in this situation is the presence of Molybdenum disulfide (moly). The moly binds with the zinc adding an additional very slippery layer to the metal. The correct ratio of the two is .01 to .02% by weight to be most effective. A temporary solution is to use Rotella or Delo. These are readily available in parts stores. These are diesel oils.

    General Motors knows about the problem and recommends their product EOS as an additive. You can use Castrol 20w-50w. You can use Castrol HD30 for the first 3000 miles in a new engine.

    Eventually all oils, including the diesel ones, will be without ZDDP.

    Castrol is going to release a “Classic Oil”

    for our old type engines. A 30w oil will be petroleum based and a 20w-50w synthetic will be offered. For now, use EOS and Castrol HD30 for your break in period. This info came from the Sacramento Valley MG Car Club bulletin via the Mid-Atlantic Packards bulletin.”

    An overview of the “flat tappet” issue can be found at:

    http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html

    Although it’s written from a perspective of racing engines, the issues are the same. Page 2 of the article suggests appropriate additives, and page 3 has links to sources referenced in the article.

    Does this affect our motors? We don't exactly have tappets at all do we? Or do the cam shims count somehow? Since no one here should be running Energy Conserving oil anyway, we are all alright, no?
    1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
    1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
    http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11
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