and yet more valves

[HobbyMan]

Does anyone know where to get a metric feeler? Second, I don't know what all the talk is about the motion pro tool is. Mine works fine. Anyway, How do you get the notch in the bucket turned to where you can get a screw driver in it? mine is 180 off and I cant get it underneath and past the cam. ANy tips from the gurus?

[dale_1]

bucket notch

I have a metric feeler guage or two somewhere.... wait ....... all mine have both.

use a scribe......... when you get to Jax remind me and I'll give you one if I don't lose my spare between now and then.... and if you don't already have one.... because I could never de"scribe" it to you.... you just have to see it to understand it..........

and by the way Andrew...... I just did a test today and yesterday and well..... the day before that too..... oops Monday also...... if I don't lean all the way forward when gettin on it in 1st or 2nd........ it does wheelie! oops


better stop that soon

[John]

Metric feeler gauge

Andrew I have a dedicated metric gauge you can use. I bought it from the Matco Truck. When the cam lobe is pointed up, you should be able to spin the bucket to get the notch where you need it.

[HobbyMan]

I can spin it with a screw driver in the notch. Once I get the notch under the cam, I cannot put a screw driver in the notch to turn it. It won't spin freely by itself. It did earlier, but now that I am actually trying to get it pointed in the right direction, it requires a screw driver to turn it. Go figure. I may stop by this weekend to get the gauge if that is alright with you John. I am going to measure each pad and then check the number underneath. After I have done that, I will see what pads I can reuse and which ones I will need to go get. On that topic, The Motorcycle shop wants $4 a pad. Is that normal? I was sure that there were some places that would just swap out the old ones.

[HobbyMan]

well gee. Now it is spinning again. I think I must of had the lobe pointing up not away from the pad

[HobbyMan]

now the exhaust pads refuse to come out. THey spin in the cup but don't come out. I love having this computer in the garage.

[dale_1]

magnet???

have you got a magnet and will it pick em up?

I am learnin while you do the work.....

[Snow]

Word on the street is compressed air whis 'em right out also.

[HobbyMan]

I will try the compressed air method. I was going to try that earlier but there is a bunch of oil sittin up there and I did not want to make a big fat mess.
Forgot to mention...
Mark, when I sit normally, I can't do a wheelie. The rear tire usually breaks loose. Or at least it did when I tried it for the first coupla times. THe clutch on the special is on its way out so I can't get much torque on it. It lets go if I am in second at 5.5k when the throttle is wide open.

[xssiveone]

Originally posted by HobbyMan
now the exhaust pads refuse to come out. THey spin in the cup but don't come out. I love having this computer in the garage.

Take a small screwdriver and wedge it between the pad and the bucket thru the notch. The oil between the pad and bucket has amazing hold qualities, but it will come out eventually.

[HobbyMan]

tried that. It works on the intake, not on the exhaust for me because for some reason the tool is holding the bucket lower. I can't get enough angle on it to pry. I don't have a good magnet lying around either.
Off to switch computers. Brb

[dale_1]

did it work yet?

Have you got any safetywire?

[prometheus578]

Make sure the tool isn't in contact with the shim and holding it in place.
yes, the compressed air. I thought I was a genius with that one, till Geezer chimed in saying he's done that for years.
Some shops charge for shims, others exchange.
For years I would exchange them... but I've just had to reorder more for the shop to the tune of $475. (29mm, 29.5mm, 24mm, 13mm 9.5mm,10mm, etc.)
I'm may have to now charge a few bucks per shim to offset what it took to build my working inventory up again. Common thinknesses(2.50 - 2.85) I have plenty of. It's the oddballs at either end of the spectrum that I keep running out of and can't replace.
$4 per pad seems about right. I think we get 'em for about $3.
Now then again... if you had your valve adjustment done by the shop, they probably wouldn't charge you for the shims they exchanged.

(Just a shop's perspective)

[HobbyMan]

Back now. Had to go to the store. The tool isn't holding the pad down. I checked that. I have some thin steel that came from a windshield wiper that is going to be next. If that doesn't work, I will have to go borrow or buy a pick.

[prometheus578]

Lazy...

Get some paper towels, get the oil out of the way, use air and get it over with!
(Magnet is only useful for pulling the shim out from under the cam after it's been popped from the bucket)