the 750 mod to our 11s

[Doo-Daa]

Hey TC & XSCHOP.

After drifting thru the MODs Section, I came across TC's write up on the 750 rear end swap.

I'm looking for some updated info as to:
Are you still satisfied with it?
Milage went up to??
And Performance went down to?

Using the spacer method, the swap appears to be no more complicated that a rainy Sunday. Even less since it's time to do all the drive line maintenance anyway.

And can we talk TC into using his 'skills' to machine us the perfect bushing? ;-}

How about some feedback?


Doo-Daa

[xschop]

dude

the 12 yr old down the street from me could help you do the swap(helped me do mine)and even pay for the bushing....no kidding....it is the SIXTH GEAR you keep looking for on the hiway.....chop

[John]

Hey Ogg!

It is so easy even a cave man could do it. You are reading more difficulty into it than there really is. First...use a smal screwdriver and pry off the small spring clip on the end of the 1100's drive shaft and watch it fly across the shop, and fuggetaboutit. Now wasn't that cool. Next get a 3/4 inch copper pipe splicing nipple. Cut it to 5/8 length. Make sure the ends are square. You don't even need to add the O rings at the spacer if you don't want to. Driveshafts' done. On to the 750-850 FD... First remove the drain and fill plugs. Drain the old oil. Put a couple of nuts on a couple of the mounting studs so the pinion doesn't pull out, and just yank the driveshaft out...hard. I had to clamp onto the shaft with a visegrip, and smack the visegrips with a hammer. It may take some work, but it will come out. You can use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the FD if the driveshaft won't pull out easily. The seal will come out with the driveshaft. It won't be used again.
Still with me? Good. Go to the hardware store and get a 1/2 inch ID flat washer with a large OD. Now use an impact gun to remove the pinion nut. If you don't have one. I'll bet the mechanic at the shop you take your car to would buzz it off for you. Pull the big washer out. While you are at the shop, clean the area around where the pinion nut was, and fill the two holes you'll see with some silicone, and then smear some around the area where the washer sits. Put the washer you just bought over the pinion shaft and put the nut back on. Have the mechanic put the German torque (gudentite) on it.(50 ft lbs should be good) Tell him thanks, slip him a couple of bucks, and go to the auto parts store and get some gear oil. Go home. Now the hard part... Smear some grease on the splines of the 1100's drive shaft and slip the spacer on the shaft at this time. Using some care and patience, insert the drive shaft into the swingarm until it stops. that is the U joint flange you've just hit. Now comes the hardest part...are you ready? You'll need to feel your way around with the shaft until you find the splined portion of the U joint flange. If you want, you can undo the rubber boot that cover the U joint and see your progress, and help to see when you are in the flange. The flange will probably be pointed down, and you'll need to use the end of the shaft, and 'feel' your way into it with just the tip of the shaft, and try to lift the flange so the shaft will slide into it. I know this part seems difficult, but it really isn't. Did you get it in yet? Good. Now insert the spring into the cavity in the FD. Smear some grease on the splines of the FD, and some on the end of the drive shaft. Cool. Now assemble the FD to the driveshaft and tightent the nuts on the four mounting studs holding the whole contraption together. Now, the Clymers manual will tell you to measure 10 oz of gear oil ( I prefer the synthetic flavor) into one of your wife's glass measuring cups (it cleans better than plastic), and try to get it all into the FD. Betcha can't do it. It will usually take about six oz. Use some thread tape on the threads of the fill and drain plugs. The synthetic will try to migrate past the threads. My man, you are done. Of course, the rear wheel has to be reinstalled, but that's another chapter, and I'm tired of typing.
Good luck. Though you won't really need it. I think I got all the typos and misspellings corrected, but if not...too bad!

[audijunky]

Or you could go here
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...threadid=11605
This thread is full of "hows it working" posts

[TopCatGr58]

Credit where Credit is due!

Hey DooDaa,

The 750 FD mod is NOT MINE, it was XSChop's fine research and work, and then Maximan's fine photo documentation and writeup, I just posted it! Maximan was providing the bushings. XSCHops more into some of these custom machining projects, check out his recent solid engine mounts! I'm busy enough with making my SOFA's...which I have currently run out of!
T.C.