I just bought my first xs1100. I want to get out and ride it, but the clutch is a bear. I've checked the cable and it's not binding nor is it bent in any way. Every single pull of the clutch lever is a workout. It's like using one of those spring hand strengtheners. I could ride for 5 or 10 minutes, but then it would be too much. Any cluse as to what might be causing this?
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It may not be binding, but it can still be corroded/rusted inside the sheath. Take it off, and spritz some carb cleaner down into it first, working the cable up/down or in/ out of the sheath, to work out dirt, debri, etc.. Then squirt some good lubricant in there, again working it in and out to spread the stuff into the cable sheath. Then put it back on and see if that doesn't make it easier to pull?!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Get a new cable and if that is not the problem, you will have a spare for a road trip. If it is indeed the problem, you may have saved a tough time being stranded somewhere.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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I agree that the first thing to check is for corrosion or rust in the cable sheath. WD40 will break up the rust, but it dries too quickly, and then the cable's unlubed again. One can use WD40 or similar to break it free, but then follow with a good cable lube, like silicone, or something equally slippery, but long lasting. Disconnect the cable at the lever. Make a funnel around it, and spray a pool of lube into it, and try to get it down into the cable. DON"T make a funnel out of duct tape! The lube will dissolve the adhesive, carry it down into the cable, and when it then dries, it will really be gummed up."Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
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Thanks. I'll try these. I know the kid that had it before me "worked" on the bike. I've found countless shortcuts so far. Is there a chance they put a wrong spring in the wrong place inside the clutch itself? I've checked the dry spring, but not inside the case where the oil is. Not sure exactly how it's built and I'm wary of just opening random cases without knowing if I need new gaskets or seals in doing so. Thanks for all the help!78 xs1100E standard
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You may also want to check the lever that is on the bike! The original lever has a "dog leg" in it that increased the leverage, to make it easier to pull. If the PO put on a strait lever, it would be harder to pull.
Just a thoughtRay Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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You may want to read this thread too its full of help on your clutch it helped me understand wahts going on
good luck
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...&threadid=9481
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The handle looks right, but I'm a little concerned about the angle the cable is taking out of the handle, especially since the handlebars are already turned far to the left which would usually be stretching and pulling on the cable, partially straightening out?
You may need to reroute the way the cable is run around and thru the Triple Tree and headlight area before it's run under the tank to the clutch case!?
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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I've seen your photos in the LOUNGE. All I'm saying is that you may want to route the cable around the headlight/Triple Tree area differently so that it's not put at such an angle at the bar lever holder!?
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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I agree with TC... and even if that's not the cause your cable is going to wear it's way into the sheath pretty quick at that location which would make matters worse. SO clean, lube and re-route the cable and you will likely be good to go
RobKEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN
1978 XS1100E Modified
1978 XS500E
1979 XS1100F Restored
1980 XS1100 SG
1981 Suzuki GS1100
1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
1983 Honda CB900 Custom
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Originally posted by prometheus578
I agree that the first thing to check is for corrosion or rust in the cable sheath. WD40 will break up the rust, but it dries too quickly, and then the cable's unlubed again. One can use WD40 or similar to break it free, but then follow with a good cable lube, like silicone, or something equally slippery, but long lasting. Disconnect the cable at the lever. Make a funnel around it, and spray a pool of lube into it, and try to get it down into the cable. DON"T make a funnel out of duct tape! The lube will dissolve the adhesive, carry it down into the cable, and when it then dries, it will really be gummed up.
Might it be a good idea to take the clutch plate cover off and the cable out of that before pouring the lubricant in the cable so it doesn't run down into the clutch mechanism?1981 XS1100SH
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I agree, Malber, and for you and I, you are correct.
I would disconnect the lower end of the cable before lubing it, just so that I can yank on the cable and see if it slides smoothly through the sheath... to see if the cable was binding, or the trouble lies elsewhere.
My answer was tailored around his first statementI just bought my first xs1100
Thank you for pointing that out."Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
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