sticking front brakes

[STEPPENWOLF]

Did a search and found the article on how to fix the problem,unclog the "spooge hole" in the front master cyl, looks pretty straight forward and the only thing I should need is brake fluid.This may sound like a simple question,will I have to bleed the brakes after I fill it up with fluid and put the cover back on?The other thing is will the brakes release on their own or will I have to do some thing else,like tap them,pump the lever a few times? I AM NOT!!!! a brake person for sure:-) nor a mechanic,just a weekend warrior..........

[John]

To access the 'spooge' (who ever gave it that name?) hole, you have to bend the plastic tab that covers it, out of the way. It will be the tab towards the front of the M/C. It is the fluid return port back to the reservior. The orifice is very small, so a very fine strand of wire, or suitable poking device of your choice will be needed to poke through it. That can be done by removing most of the fluid from the reservior, and then doing the work. As long as air doesn't enter the cylinder chamber, you won't need to bleed it. It wouldn't hurt to get a rebuild kit and do the M/C also. You may want to disassemble the calipers, remove the square O ring from the caliper bore, and scrape out the crud that has built up in the groove, and on the back side of the O ring. This can cause the O ring to apply too much resistance to the piston, not allowing it to return when the break lever is released. If you determine the O ring is bad, or should be replaced, then a rebuild kit is in order.

[papanovember]

The problem you have with your brakes could be your calipers. I just rebuilt mine because they were sticking. Cleaned all the gunk out of there and lubed the slider bolt on the calipers. I would also recommend getting a set of speed bleeders. They work great. Makes the job of bleeding your brakes a whole lot easier. For just bleeding your brakes, pump the old fluid out and keep pouring the new stuff in, without introducing air back in, until the new fluid comes out at the calipers.

[STEPPENWOLF]

You guys kinda went over my head a bit,brakes always scared me so I am a little hesitant to do this.I have the Yamaha service manual on this bike so I will look at the actual bike,the manual and I am printing out your replies.....I will try the spooge hole thing first(congers up a few ideas) If that fixes the problem..I will leave it at that,if not will have to dig farther.

Many thanks for the replies,it seems I am at least headed in the right direction.
Bill

[Ken Talbot]

Before you start, be sure to place lots of shop rags and or paper over your tank, and cover up any painted surface. Brake fluid will eat into your paint before you realize it has spilled.

[STEPPENWOLF]

Thanks Ken,I learned that lesson about 30 years ago...the bad way:-) Paint vs brake fluid......and we have a winner, brake fluid.
I am going to attempt this tomorrow,I will be very careful. I need new glasses ,maybe Topcat can come by and help me,probably won't be able to see that orifice anyway...................

[prometheus578]

Name callin'

maybe Topcat can come by and help me, probably won't be able to see that orifice anyway...

Over the years, I've called T.C. many things, but never an "orifice".
What? Oh... I see.
Spooge hole: If the hole is clogged, or there's a lot of gelled brake fluid in the resevoir, if you can, I'd disassemble the master and clean the rest of the gel out.
Not a hard job, just need a pair of "c" clip pliers that can reach down in there.
John, as always, is correct concerning the caliper. If the master is dirty.. often, so is the slave.
Sometimes it's not the spooge hole, but jellied brake fluid in the caliper that's the culpret.
Everything, and I mean everything, on a bike is easy to do.
Time... is the key ingredient.
If in doubt... ask questions.
Occasionally, we can provide correct answers!

[mro]

Ah Crud!

Should you find that your brake fluid has "floaters" or is not clear anymore, may need to clean/flush whole system

(Usually good idea to take it all apart)
When I find stuff in MC, I use a shop vac with a fuel hose stuck in it to remove it. Fill MC agin, shake and vac it agin until clean. Then remove hoses and calipers and do them. Can bleed MC with hose off by putting finger over spot where hose connects.

Can take 20 to 60 minutes to refill and bleed system when reassembled. Vac bleeder is very helpful.

mro

[STEPPENWOLF]

Re: Name callin'

[QUOTE]Originally posted by prometheus578
[B]
Over the years, I've called T.C. many things, but never an "orifice".
What? Oh... I see.

I would never call someone a name here..TC has been giving some great info on the art of seeing in another thread and it looks like what I will be looking at is going to be small and I have problems in that area. In the article I read orifice and spooge hole were the same thing,I may have come across the wrong way,if so I am sorry.

Bill

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Bill, take a chill!

Bill,

Welcome to the wacky world of Prometheus!! He likes to toss out barbs and such every so often, just his way of welcoming you to the FORUM!

Most of us are fairly thick skinned, and some have recently developed new callouses, as well as just being callous!

But like they've said, would probably be best to just pull the calipers off and clean them, cause the "spooge" rolls downhill like so many other undesirable things! You can clean them up and put them back together without necessarily having to get a rebuild kit. The square sided O-ring is pretty strong, and as long as you take your time, it can be easily removed, cleaned and reinserted with no problem. There is a small 'C' type ring around the dust cover of the caliper piston, usually is rusty, and that dust seal is thin, so you'll just need to be careful to remove that ring so as not to damage the dust seal, and then you can remove the piston. You'll probably be amazed at how much junk you'll find inside the caliper, along with possible aluminum corrosion.

Then you will only have to flush and bleed the system once!

Here's a few photos to show you what you'll find!

[STEPPENWOLF]

Re: Hey Bill, take a chill!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TopCatGr58
[B]Bill,

Welcome to the wacky world of Prometheus!! He likes to toss out barbs and such every so often, just his way of welcoming you to the FORUM!

Most of us are fairly thick skinned, and some have recently developed new callouses, as well as just being callous!


I am so chillin that I am jelling:-)
I just wanted to make sure that everyone who reads what ever I write I will not attack anyone or put them down. I am a newbie here,well, been reading the posts for years and just joined,shy ya know,just want to be positive .
I don't really want to get into brakes too much,I just don't know much about them,this getting into the front brake master cyl is new to me,don't know the name of parts let alone the actual brake parts,I am sure it is easy once you have done it like the post above said that it is an easy bike to work on.I am one of those people,I am sure there are others on here,who look at the books ,pictures detailed descriptions and go WHAT? TC great pics and descriptions but I will not atempt that kinda stuff...I just don't know what I am doing when it comes to brakes...I don't want to make a mistake.........
Thanks, didn't really expect such detailed responses

[HobbyMan]

If you decide not to take the brake calipers apart, at least bleed the brakes to flush the system out. The reason that the "spooge" hole was blocked was because of dirt or gel as PRO said. You need to get all of it out or it will plug up again. The only problem with not dissasembling them completely is that junk will become traped in the calipers. The bleed is at the top. Brakes are not that hard, really. I would say that carbs a little more difficult for a beginner. Just rember not to use carb cleaner or any other solvent on the rubber. I usually use carb cleaner on the metal parts and them flush it with brake fluid before reassembly. THe two fluids do not mix. The MC is kinda hard to work on without the right circlip pliers. Once it is apart, it is easy to put back together

[Czekus21]

The brakes are not that difficult to figure out. A lit-o-bit-o-common sense go along way. I always recommend that if your going to own and ride a bike that alot of shops won't work on, or they will but ittle cost ya, ya gotta know how to fix em yourself. I would tear into the calipers and make sure that when doin 85 mph, your going to be able to go to 0 without the help of a solid object. Just my 2 cents.

[STEPPENWOLF]

Everyone gets an A on the info they gave me. I didn't have much time to work on the bike today but I did clean out the spooge hole. I could not believe the junk in there!!! even a piece of the safety seal from a can of brake fluid.I did not remove the reservoir but I turned it just a little to get the plastic tab out of the way.I used an old anti freeze tester,the thingie with the little floating balls, to get the fluid out.Used a paper clip at first and then a thin piece of wire. Cleaned it up and put it back together and guess what......I can ride again!!!! it was frozen,it rolls forward fairly easy now,better than in the past but is still a little ruff going backwards.
After rereading the posts above and see how dirty that MC was I am going to take your advice about the calipers,looking at your pics and I have my manual plus some other great advice,I should be able to handle it if I take my time.Sunday I should be able to have another look at it and have more time.

[STEPPENWOLF]

After thought, I used DOT#3,is that still the recommened fluid?