Just wondering where do you get the valve adjustment tool and where do you get the shims?? Kim
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If you'll do a search for MOTION PRO VALVE you should find several threads about it. And if you'll see a recent thread about Valve Shims Needed, you'll see where you "may" be able to trade your unneeded shims for the ones you need! Otherwise there are a few places you can get them, like BikeBandit, your local dealer, etc.!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Thanks Guys,
My problem is I think I need to remove the fairing and mount to remove the valve cover, then measure, then find out what shims I need, then get the tool and shims, right??? Would be nice to have them all before I start, LOL And I need to do this every 6K?? Kim1980 XS100G Standard, Full Dresser
1980 Honda CB125S
1984 Honda Nighthawk 650
1986 BMW K100RT
2004 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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Part of the problem is that you'll need the tool BEFORE you can get the shims, because the sizes are on the BOTTOM of the shims, that is IF they were put in properly, and you can't check what size you have without the tool! You can measure your clearances though! And IF your clearances are within spec, then you're DONE!! No need for the tool, at that time!
Yeah, the book says 6K. I had mine serviced once after breakin, and didn't touch it for 9 years!! It was in my ignorant youth!
Put on 50K+ miles without any problems!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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A correction..."
, then measure, then find out what shims I need, then get the tool and shims, right??? Would be nice to have them all before I start,
When you measure the valve clearance, this will only tell you whether it's just right, or too tight(which is usually the case).
You cannot determine which shims you need by this alone.
Once you remove the offending shim, on the other side, you will see it's size printed(provided that the lettering hasn't worn off) Something like 2.60, or 2.75mm, etc.
Using this number, you then can calculate which size shim you must substitute in order to get your clearance back into specs.
The Motion Pro valve tool was machined badly. It is too thick, and the mounting holes should be elongated for ease of use.
If you have a lot of shims to change, it is often quicker to just remove the cam chain tensioner(To slacken the chain) and pop the cams loose to get at all the shims. (measure all the clearances first, as once the cams are off, clearances can't be measured, and mark the chain and the corresponding tooth on the gears... I use fingernail polish... to ensure that in your fumbling, the chain doesn't jump a tooth)
Now then, to once again incur the wrath of the purists....
Here is the easy way to calculate what shims you need:
Measure your clearances using standard gauges, not metric. If your clearance is off by .002, then go one shim size different. Shims are graduated in .05mm increments. (2.60, 2.65, 2.70, 2.75, etc)
And, due to the magic of mathematics... .05mm happens to be .002 of an inch.
If your clearances are too tight, remove the thick shim and put in a thinner one.
As the number printing on the backside of the shim may be gone, go to Harbor Freight and buy their digital caliper for $14 so you can measure them.
As mentioned, all brands use the 29mm shims, so any dealer can order them for you. If your lucky, have a kind face and bring a six-pack of beer as a gift, most shops will just swap your old shims for the ones that you need.
Exercise caution, though, as some Suzuki's used 29.5mm shims, and you may be given a few of these by mistake. Politely measure the shims given (with your Harbor Freight Digital Caliper)if the shop allows you to swap them."Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
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Once again... T.C. pops in while I'm still typing my reply.
(This is now the second or third time I've had to mention this, T.C.! You may wish to exercise a little caution in the future. Now... I'm not saying anything... but just stating in a friendly manner...)"Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
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Another word of caution is in order if you are going to remove the cams to do this procedure. It helps to check and record all of the clearances before you remove the tensioner and chain. If you rotate one cam while the chain is off, and you will have to do this to check clearance after installing a new shim, there is a high probability of bending one or more valves if the alignment dot for the other cam is not aligned with the arrow on the #3 bearing cap. While you are working, always return each cam to its aligned position before touching the other cam. With the head off, it is very easy to see how two valves can bang into each other when the cames are not in sync.Ken Talbot
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OK, No Problem, I will not remove the cams, and I do have a Yamaha manual with a chart in it. I just need to find me a tool and some shims, I hope they are all ok and don't need adjustment, LOL. I'll know, maybe when I get her running. And as any engine noise is much better than no noise, LOL Kim1980 XS100G Standard, Full Dresser
1980 Honda CB125S
1984 Honda Nighthawk 650
1986 BMW K100RT
2004 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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