Make sure the plug wires do go were they are supposed to. The left coil fires 1and4, the right 2and3. It isn't that far fetched to get a bike from a PO with the wires wrong I just hadn't seen this cover yet in the thread. Nothing worse than doing tons of work and skipping over a problem that was super basic.
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Well, theoretically the colder the conductor, the less resistance. Superconductors are that way after being put in liquid nitrogen or such!
But I don't have any formula for calculating the resistance value for a certain conductor at a certain temperature? I would think that as long as it's over 1 ohm and not an open short, that it is probably ok!?
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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carbs
Put new plugs in it today it fired right up but went down hill from there . The pipes on 1 and 2 where hot when it first started i took it for a short ride but its still just running on two cyclinders . I took the plugs out 1 and 2 where both soaked with gas . Both plugs still had good spark by visually checking them . Its starting to look like a carb problem . It still makes me wonder why this happened after the ballist resistor went out it ran perfect before then...
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plugs
I'm still not sold on this being a carb problem . What else could cause 1 &2 cyclinder not to fire right. The spark on those cyclinders is not nearly as strong as 3 & 4 . The pipes stay cool to the touch after starting is it possible that the ballist resistor could have messed something else up . There was no carb problem before this happened. The pipes get warm right after starting then go completely cold i'm convinced this is a spark problem but everything i have tested seems fine .
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Okay, try swapping the wires from 1-4 with each other, and 2-3 with each other, and then fire it up. IF the symptoms stay with the cylinders....1-2, then it's carbs, but if the symptoms then jump to 3-4, then it's more likely ignition, and problems with the caps or actual wires from the coils!
Doubtful that the ballast resistor could cause damage to the coils to be wire specific. The secondary windings that provide the high power output are NOT directly connected to the Primary inner windings. SO.. if the fried resistor caused damage to the primaries, I would think it would affect both plug outputs.
However after saying that, I remember a post about someone NOT getting enough voltage to the coil, so the amount of power coming out the coils was reduced, and was only affecting the weaker return wire on each coil similar to your findings! Have you checked the voltage on the coil side of the ballast resistor? Have you checked the replacement resistor for proper resistance?
YOu can bypass the resistor for a short while and run the bike to test if the 1-2 cylinders will get hot and stay hot!?
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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carbs
Ok i think you guys were right last night i turned off the gas and emptied the 1 and 2 carbs this evening it fired right up rode it for a mile or so and 1 and 2 qiut again pulled the plugs both were wet with gas. I've had some problems with the xs650 float sticking should this be the first thing i check ?
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20 questions
Float height?
Are you using in-line fuel filters?
How old are the fuel lines?
How old are the float valves and seats?
I had replaced all the valves and seats on my 80G. Cut fuel line and installed filters (little rust in my tank).
All was fine for about the next 3,000 miles, then took a day trip up the coast. Got home and parked in garage.
Next morning had gas leaking from two carbs. Turns out I never replaced fuel lines and rubber was flaking off into the carbs which kept float valve from closing all the way. Cleaned carbs, R&R'ed lines and has been running fine since.
mro
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