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  • 2nd Gear

    I've been away from the list for a couple years due to riding and repairing other bikes. Now I'm back around to addressing the tranny problem in my 79 Hybrid. I built this bike a few years ago from a wreck. When I took it out for a test ride, I discovered the 2nd gear slip problem, so I just parked it. I found a used tranny on eBay.

    Last week I decided to do the in bike teardown, and discovered the expected rounding of the leading edge of the 5th gear dogs and to a lesser degree, the rounging edges of the 2nd gear slots, and the shifting fork was bent and gaulded. Another thing I DID NOT find (and something I haven't read about in other posts) is the circlip on the right end of the secondary shaft! The parts diagram clearly shows a circlip on shaft end next to the middle drive gear that rides between the gear and the case bearing. My bike did not have this circlip, nor did the transmission I got from eBay.

    I'm wondering if this being absent is not the underlying cause for the 2nd gear failure. With this part missing, the entire shaft is shifted slightly toward the right side. This would lessen the area in which the dogs of 5th gear have to mesh with the slots of 2nd gear. When fully meshed the measurment is only 0.220 in. When the gear begins to slip, this bends the shifting fork. Now with each successive shift the area of contact between the dogs and slots becomes less, there is more slipping and rounding off of the dogs, and subsequently the gear fails to hold at all. Some have talked about increasing this engagement area by moving the thrust washer to the side opposite the circlip on 2nd gear, but I'm not sure this is a good idea to have this circlip acting as a thrust surface. Doing the dovetail undercut on the dogs and slot helps to keep the gears engaged.

    I'm going to place a circlip or washer onto the right end of the secondary shaft and see if this causes any clearance problems with any of the other fork shifted gears. I'll post an update when I get this done.
    Larry/Crossville, TN
    80 XS11 Midnight (el gallo negro)
    80 XS850S
    79 XS750S
    79 XS650
    77 RD400
    80 SR500
    et al

  • #2
    Hey Larry,

    Here's a couple of threads discussing this issue:

    Thread 1

    And here's the other thread, with info from GNEPIG, one of our other resident bike mechanics, with regards to what he first thought would be an easier approach, but found out otherwise, might save you some trouble!?
    Thread 2

    GNEPIG posted another thread, but can't find it right now, on just how he did the shimming of the end of the countershaft and the gears, if you do a search, might find it, or someone might have it bookmarked, and post it here!?
    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      Whups!! I did another inspection of the bearing and found the aforementioned circlip. It holds in the case bearing. Still I'm going to try to shim the shaft with 0.050-0.060" washer.
      Larry/Crossville, TN
      80 XS11 Midnight (el gallo negro)
      80 XS850S
      79 XS750S
      79 XS650
      77 RD400
      80 SR500
      et al

      Comment


      • #4
        Phishing are we?

        GNEPIG
        XS-XJ Demigod

        Hey TC, with your newly appointed 'Omnipotentence', wouldn't this Tech bulletin be easier to find in the Repairs/ Transmission topic section?

        Comment


        • #5
          Hmmm

          So according to Yamaha, you want to shim the stationary gear with the slots not the sliding gear with the dogs so that it is moved closer to the gear that slides into it. That makes complete sense to me. Changing the location of the washer on the sliding gear in the 2nd/5th set would not seem to increase engagement. The location of the sliding gear is set by the shift fork location not the washer. Changing the thrust washer location may actually cause accellerated wear of the shift fork due to misalignment with the fork. I know plenty of folks have done this mod with no ill affects, but I suspect the new or "Dremelled" gears were what really fixed the problem. I'm putting in new gears and a shift fork and leaving that washer where Yamaha put it.
          Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
          1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
          23mm float height
          120 main jets
          42.5 pilot jets
          drilled stock airbox with K&N
          Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
          spade fusebox
          1st and 2nd gear fix

          Comment


          • #6
            Coming to my senses

            Ignore my previous post. It's obviously impossible to shim the sliding gear. Moving the washer would indeed add the thickness of that washer to the engagement depth. I guess I spent too much time in the garage with the carb cleaner today! I'm moving the washer.
            Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
            1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
            23mm float height
            120 main jets
            42.5 pilot jets
            drilled stock airbox with K&N
            Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
            spade fusebox
            1st and 2nd gear fix

            Comment


            • #7
              I would have been happy with just undercutting my gears and riding off into the sunset. But just undercutting the gears on two of the six transmissions that I have repaired did not fix the problem. That's what sparked the idea behind this thread (and a comment by a user named ag9123):
              http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t=trans+repair

              Each trans problem is a little different, in most cases to undercut is the fix for your trans problem. It is stated in the bulletin and in my thread, that this(just shiming) may not be a fix, but it will help prevent the problem from happening in the first place or again.
              The ideal behind factory technical bulletins is to cover factory production mistakes and the XS11's transmission has a mistake shared by a couple of other models.
              I would buy the new gears and fork also, those parts are way better made now. 350 bucks is a small price to pay for peace of mind.
              Good luck

              Comment

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