okay the tubeless questions again

[mason79]

1979 f

rear says tubeless on the spokes

2 additional flat spots for rim locks, i don't know what they look like on a rim i guess it's not there so it flat and not machined.

my serial number is beyond S/N 2H7-026951

however:

the fronts don't say tubeless on the spokes, i checked 3 times, the valve stem looks like it's metal witha nut, not rubber, and it does not have the 2 rim lock flat spot, that are on the rears,

so do i have a tubeless rim, i wanted to clean it up real good and paint it, but if it's tube type i may change my minded.


i'm very sure the po did not switch rims, so does the fact that the fronts has no stampings as to whether it's tude or tubeless, is the default tubeless?

[Pat Kelly]

Tubeless rims still have the flats where the rimlocs were.
Front rims never used rimlocks.
Even tubes have stems held in place with a nut.
If it dosen't say "tubeless" I personally would use a tube.

[mason79]

Originally posted by Pat Kelly
Tubeless rims still have the flats where the rimlocs were.
Front rims never used rimlocks.
Even tubes have stems held in place with a nut.
If it dosen't say "tubeless" I personally would use a tube.

the flats are there in the back, then why in the heck would yamaha mix the two?

[EZMoney]

My 19" front tire is tubeless and works just fine.
I have a 16" rear that says tubeless and doesn't have the flats drilled for the rim locks and when I took the tire off it had a tube in it ( got this wheel when I picked up a parts bike ).
I also have a 17" rear that is drilled for the rim locks ( which I use )and you do have to run a tube in it.
A local bike mechanic said that if I wanted to run tubeless on the 17" wheel I would have to fill the rim lock holes or run tubeless valve stems in the additional holes.
The advantage of running rim locks is that you don't get any tire to rim slippage although it mostly happens on a dirt bike when the knobby tires hook up on root. On these bikes the tires just spin for no appearent reason and you have to let up on the throttle to get them to hook-up

My $0.02

Ed

[Mathh]

Originally posted by mason79


the flats are there in the back, then why in the heck would yamaha mix the two?

I guess Yamaha used only one casting form for different kind of wheels. That is cheaper than making a new mold for every different type of wheel.
In Europe we have the the same wheels as yours but they were all tube type, first with tyre locks, later without. Only difference were the drilled holes for the tyre locks.
Same with the difference between tubeless and tube type wheels, the cast wheel is the same, only the machining afterwards in the factory is different .

[HobbyMan]

can you run a tube on a tubless tire and rim? I ask because of road hazzard. On road trips, I don't have the tools to seat a bead on a tubless tire. It would be easy to put in a tube and then I wouldn't have to seat the bead.

[DiverRay]

You CAN run a tube on a tubeless rim, but you CANNOT run a tubeless WITHOUT a tube in it on a tube type rim.
We've been over this before, so in short:
If it DOES NOT have "tubeless" stamped on a spoke, you MUST use a tube with ANY type of tire.
Mason, in '79 Yamaha switched from tube to tubeless rims. They did it in the middle of the production run, and switched as they ran out of the tube type rims. You can have an original with both types installed.

[xschop]

even more trivia

If you look very closely, the newer 1980 standard rim(which is marked tubless) is even lathed down more than the other rims (tubes). I have never seen anybody post on this.... I found out this detail from doing a mod (which still isn't finished BTW) to a set wheels....chop

[HobbyMan]

Since it seems the main question has been answered, I am going to hijack this thread just a little more so that I don't have to start one all over again.

I understand all the stuff about wheather or not to run tube type rims and all, what I need to know now is:
If a tube tire goes flat on the road in the middle of nowhere, what should I do?
A) Just put a tube in it and go
B) plug the tire and put a tube in it
C) plug the tire (how hard is it to seat the bead without an air compressor?)
I am planning some road trips and I need to start allocating space to plan. I jsut finished making my saddle bags from musett bags from an army navy store. I cant realy haul a lot without a fairing. What equipment do I need to patch a tire on the road besides the standard Yamaha tool kit?

[Pat Kelly]

On roadtrips I just took (take) a tube. If the hole in the tire is so large that a tube would be compromised then I'm not riding on that tire.
I take a tube even though I have tubeless tires now. I also carry plugs in case they'll do the trick, they're much faster.
I consider plugs as a temporary fix. At the soonest convienient opportunity I replace the plug with a patch.
Fortunately I've never had a flat more than a few miles from home (once).

[andreashweiss]

I do have a nice rim with good tire on it. Front 19inch from 1980 xs1100 special. If there is someone wanting it. Its for sale. PM please. andreas

[Pat Kelly]

ps.

I only carry a 19" tube as it will work in a 16 or 17" back tire in an emergency.

[HobbyMan]

yeah, I think I will just get a tube and some plugs. I heard a myth of a device that screwed into the spark plug threads that would air your tires. All you do is crank your engine and you get up to 150 psi or max compression. Anyone heard or have one of these?

[mason79]

yes i have the kit, from the po. most mail order retailers still have them, rider's warehouse does; makers of aerostitch suits

somehow i don't think running the engine on 3 cylinders can be good and the chance to flood that one out, and then having to change the oil, seems bad.

our machines are so adverse to the basics of ignition,like or carbs, why compromise that?

maybe co2 cartrigdes, vs. foot pump or electric pump.
what do you think?

[HobbyMan]

I wouldn't actually start the engine. Maby pull off the spark plig wires and drain one of the float bowls that I would be using. How big is the kit?