lousy xj 1100 brakes

[Luca Baldesi]

I find the brakes of my xj 1100 really not sufficent for the local intense and caotic traffic.

I tryed original brakes pad kits but after a few months they start jamming as well and the bike hardly brake.

Does anyone knows if there are any modern and powerful caliper ass'y that can be adapted on the xj ?

Luca

[mro]

I find the brakes of my xj 1100 really not sufficent for the local intense and caotic traffic.

Stainless steel brake lines will improve stopping power. (especially if you have "old rubber ones")

I tryed original brakes pad kits but after a few months they start jamming as well and the bike hardly brake.

Not sure what you mean. Check rotor (disc) thickness, 6.5mm is the wear limit.

Rear brake pads look like fronts but are not the same. Not to be interchanged. If "jamming" occurs (brakes sticking?) most likely piston(s) in caliper need attention. I have seen them with rust and pitting. Have been able to clean and smooth with emory cloth on my 1980 G with good results.

How old is the brake fluid???
Can acquire water in system. Causes corrosion and "sludge" which will hamper braking.

XJ has the linked brake system. Need to hear from an XJ owner here.


mro

[Pat Kelly]

The front (hand) master cylinder operates only one of your front brakes.
The rear (foot) master cylinder operates the rear and the other front brake.
If you are braking like you would on a typical motorcycle and relying on the front hand lever for most of your braking you are only getting half your stopping power.
As far as "jamming" goes, do you mean the brakes don't release? If so do a 'search' for "spooge hole" and read-up on clearing that. I had to on my E. That was the first thing I learned from this site (actually the Yahoo site before this one was born).
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[Luca Baldesi]

some more needed details..:

years ago I fund the original xj system unpractical, bought an old master cylinder from an xs and unified both front brakes in it.

I kept the same back master cilinder, thrown the proportioning valve away and run the back brake directly with it.
As you may know the master cylinder kit are not produced anymore, ( Zanotti say so! ) So I have to find some from local cars...English "Ambassadors". Not such a good solution, i know....any tip ?

I had all new pipes manufactured locally (in rubber only, may be the case to try the ss option!).

Changed regularly the brake fluid (DOT4)and
cecked regularly the spoongy holes, of course!

The original piston ass'y caliper kit always come with the new piston that make it a bit inconvenient for the import process, so I get my seals manufactured locally in neoprene (but it is not always easy to be sure of wich quality, anyway I tryed the originals and they don't last long as well!).

I have tryed to use asbestos, and ferodo pads as well without noticing much difference in performance.

For a while the brakes work fine, but not for long.

To my final understanding after a while the seals loose they elasticity and start blocking the piston caliper, result........bike doesn't brake.

But what i noticed is that modern brakes have always double pistons calipers and much better design, so i wonder if something more modern can be adapted , like from the latest models of Yamaha, and if anybody have done it already.

Have a good weekend !...... I will take the fourwheeler so !

[DiverRay]

Are you sure the front master cyl. was designed for a TWO DISK system? The piston is about 2mm larger in diameter to help with the extra volume needed. The S.S. lines are the SINGLE MOST change you can make. it's like going from standard to power brakes. My '79 standard will do a "stoppie", and that's with a P&M master cyl, rebuilt calipers, S.S. lines, and DOT5 fluid.

[John]

The rear master cylinder on an XJ has more displacement than the M/C from an XS. It had to energize two calipers when in stock configuration, and it can easily cause the rear caliper to lock up. I suggest that you get a rear master cylinder for an XS11 and install it on your XJ. Did you replace the stock XJ front master cylinder with one from an XS? The XJ front master does not displace enough fluid to activate two calipers, so your front brakes will be very weak. You will need one that is designed for a two disc brake system. It does not have to be from an XS11. An XS 650,750 or 850 Special can be used, or even one from some of the other, smaller XJ models may work. The cylinder bore for the front M/C on an XS11 is 11/16 inch if I recall, so that is what size you would need for your XJ.

[50gary]

If you don't mind the expence and the work, switch to a set of modern "MONO-Block" R1 or R6 calipers (1998 to 2004 or until Yamaha switched to radial calipers). Use Stainless steel braided lines (I use Galfer> Spanish) and R1 master cylinder and remote reservior to match the calipers. Use two full length S/S lines direct from the M/C to each caliper without the crossover or "TEE" divider block. Galfer will sell you a double banjo bolt for this purpose.
To do this conversion you will have to make or have made an aluminum adaptor plate for each caliper and bolt them up to the fork legs. Then assemble the system with proper care and diligence. This will give you excellent braking power. As already mentioned, use rotors within spec. and good pads. Modern Yamaha brakes are very good they are made from a single piece of aluminum hence the name mono-block they are 4 pistion design and are usually $40.00 to $60.00 USD on ebay. Another obvious advantage of this conversion is the parts will only be a few years old and won't need rebuilding with hard to find parts.
Cheers, 50gary

[Luca Baldesi]

lousy xj brakes

I just wnted to thanks all you guys for your guidance and advises.

I have searched a bit these days and I fund that there isn't any possibilities to find any ss bryded pipes here, the crimping machines seem to be quite sofisticate, so I will have to wait till summer when I will go to Italy.

I have fund some local cheap and new calipers (double p. only ) thin rotors and back master cilinder imported from Thailand that local mechanics claim good.... So for the time being I hope this will
do.

It was a good advise to: (Use two full length S/S lines direct from the M/C to each caliper without the crossover or "TEE" divider block), the whole thing is being orgaganized right now.

I also heard about the possibility to install master cilinder "boosters" that will cost around 20 $ (?!)

Thanks to all,
Luca

[50gary]

Luca, surely you have access to ebay? Just "google" ebay and go to "motorcycles" then motorcycle parts" then "brakes and suspension" look under "Yamaha R1/R6" If nothing else you'll see the possibilities and prices. A properly sized master cylinder will not require a booster of any kind. Save your money on that one. Best of luck.
Cheers, 50gary

[Luca Baldesi]

How it all ended !

This is a compromising BREMBO solution, that may be temporary till the R1 calypers will be fund and imported !

At least now it brakes !!

greetings and thanks,

Luca


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[MacMcMacmac]

These are R1 calipers retrofitted to a Seca Turbo. Front rotors are also R1 units, bolt pattern is identical (these are 900 Seca rims, used to get a rear disc setup. This is not my bike, it is from the website

http://ootfab.webhop.net/xj/



This is a master cylinder from Parts N More built for a two caliper XS1100 setup that I used to replace my original Seca Turbo mc. It was $76 new. Combined with SS braided lines (Russell, 36" each caliper) my braking was transformed from scary to one finger.

[50gary]

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[Rubin]

For the R1 brake conversion, how did you manufacture the mounting brackets? I am going to convert to stainless lines, so it might be a good time to make the switch. Do you have pics of this on an 11?

[snowdog51]

r1 cal

will r1 cal work with stock xs rotors i understand adapter plates need to be made anyone selling them
as ever bill